Toff

Hi bud, Thats good to know/confirm. Been a while since i did it but would have put money on it being all good at the time when i had a measure up. As far as the subframe goes, its the stock ENR One, they have no HICAS so they're a preffered option over a GTT one with a lockoff kit no? Next port of call is fresh wheel bearings and a full fluid change. When i did do it initially i did use fairly thick diff oil as its all i had at the time. Will do a full change out and see how she goes. Maybe a new mapper is needed... Appreciate the help @GTSBoy and @dr phil Any pics of your setup phil?

Theyre different, GTTs have the light grey fabric while GTR has the darker fabric

@GTSBoy Thanks for the response mate. Thats good to know then, it was a small doubt in my mind and i knew it was a long shot, it would either fit and bolt up or it wouldn't was my initial thoughts but it has eaten away at me 😅 Different Dyno, However had a few cars on both dynos and results normally very similar, definitely not that far out anyway. And only after driving it for a while did i consider it not being an OEM Diff, the car was a boggo standard N/A ENR, 200hp car so i wouldnt have thought the japanese owner would have swapped the diff. It was thrown together to give some shakedowns, will be going over it and re-furbing the underside at some point while its still a rust free shell so will pull the diff etc. It doesnt make any noise mind, so be very surprised if its anything agressive but i have yet to see it spin 1 wheel, always locks up! And dont worry, it gets a thrashing. Went to the nurburgring and back and did me proud, its just not quick enough..... LOL Cheers

Hi all, Bit of an odd thread this and looking for some insight. I have a 98 ENR34 which I have converted to Turbo using a 98 GTT as it's donor. The engine was swapped onto the ENR34 AWD gearbox to work with the OEM ENR drivetrain. This has had the 3x2 rear shafts which are still fitted. What I did do, was swap the sandard Cast rear hubs (with the bush type strut fitting) For GTT alloy ones, and the 3x2 shafts went straight in. The ENR has an LSD of some sorts and i needed this to keep ratios correct. The car drives no real issue, however it seems a bit "Bindy" and its an absolute PIG to push around the garage. Other people have commented on this also. Zero issues with the rest of the car. The GTT made 540 Flywheel HP on 1.2bar, with a weak fuel pump. Tuner reckoned an easy 600+ at more boost. The ENR made like 430 on the same map, and with all the boost (1.8bar BW S364) etc thrown at it the car made 540..... Convinced something is amiss. I remember checking the shafts at the time and they looked the same (at least on the hub end) But it has me thinking now that the stub length can differ? Google also tells me this..... Can anyone confirm before I go ripping back into it? It's a good couple of years ago since I did it. And if they are indeed different, can the ends be swapped round easily enough between the 5x1 and 3x2 shafts? (Should have done it right the first time I know) Many thanks!

Hey mate, I Have stuck a thread on the Link forum and he has give me somewhere to look, Just thought i would check the wealth of info/persons on here to see if they have had the same issues with the enr34 wiring diagram. I have a feeling its something rather simple!

Hi all, Bit of a noob here and first post in a while so apologies for that!Bit of detail, I own a 1999 ENR34, Fitted with a Tuned NEO Turbo lump. The car is fitted with a Link G4+ Fury and after getting the car up and running in 2wd i decided it was time to sort the AWD. Purchased a Haltech TPS adaptor, and proceeded to wire it in using the NISSAN wiring diagram (Seems poor for the ENR). Stock ENR34 TPS.The 4wd light is still illuminated, and the car runs in 2wd. Pump works ok, Gets power, Primes up as normal etc. Been a while since i touched the car as life got in the way but i need to re-visit and sort it as its really annoying me it not working!I know the Atessa ECU needs to see a modified signal, which it receives from the adaptor.Worth noting, when the PC Program is running for the link, and full throttle is applied, the % throttle indicator on screen shows roughly 30% Throttle when the car is at full, and down from there to 0%. Would i be right in saying the ECU Is receiving the wrong signal somehow? Possibly while the Atessa ECU Is seeing the full signal? Has anyone had a similar issue with an ENR?Sorry for what probably seems a noob question, I am not the best with wiring and electronics, but know how to use a multimeter.... LolThanks all

@GTSBoy That's the diagram I was looking at, I was on the right track then! Thanks for your help, much appreciated. We got there in the end! Hopefully be useful to others in the future. Thanks Toff

@GTSBoy I had a look at page 19 of the workshop manual but not 100% on what i am looking at tbh! It clarified that the fuel pump control module and dropping resistor are not included on the DE motors, but as far as what voltage is actually supplied im still not sure. Could you tell me what voltage is received? As far as i can work out the lines that run back to the ECU plug are voltage supplied, so im guessing its just 14v or whatever is sent to the plug? Or am i way off the mark? Battery supplies plug with 14v or whatever and everything off that plug that takes a feed regulates itself with resistors and voltage droppers etc? Thanks

@GTSBoy Ahhhh the infamous GTSBoy smartass, super helpful comment, I love reading these when i browse the site. In response to that i am away with work so an ask on a forum is the next best thing isnt it? Because then i get helpful people like yourself answering for me. And @iruvyouskyrine @Kinkstaah I should have added, I swapped in a forged NEO with Borgwarner S362 and Link G4+ Fury etc etc etc so its no longer N/A. Swapped hubs etc also. So i need a constant supply. Last option is pull it all and rewire the lot but i dont think i require it. Walbro 460LPH And Bosch EV14 850CC Injectors Thanks for your help

Hi guys, Tried bumping an old thread on this subject a few days ago but no joy. Anyway, I have an ENR34 And i was intending on doing the GTT "Hard Wire" mod to get constant voltage on my fuel pump. However after a quick search i found that this is possibly not needed? The thread had one comment stating that they had the same plugs etc but no relay to adjust the voltage. Would this mean it recieves a constant voltage closer to 15v say, Or is it a lot lower? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291561-r34-turbo-fuel-system-on-na-same-wiring-harness/ Have i got it back to front? Thanks!

Epic thread bump, Anyone know the ins and outs of the above comment? If it doesn't have the relay to adjust pump voltage does this mean the static pump pressure is higher or lower? I'm guessing lower but if so what voltage is that? Thanks!

*SEMI THREAD HIJACK* Basically the same question I need to ask so thought I would to this! R34 ECU Plugs are the same? Im fitting a series 1 NEO GTT lump into an ENR, So that's that end covered if they are the same. My final question then, with the ECU plug being the same, The basic sensors in the engine bay such as TPS, Coilpack harness, Fuel injector harness are the same. The sensors that I know are slightly different plugs but have the same amount of wires, can the plugs just be swapped to suit? If the ECU plug end is the same surely the wires are going to the same pins Albeit a slightly different connector? Please note I have added any of the missing bracing from the GTT, And a full weld in cage to suit, Car also has a hybrid GTR/GTT Setup with brembos and suspension etc etc.... Thanks!

I thought R34 GT Fours had the 4.3 final drive? 4.1111 R34 RB25DET manual/auto 4.083 R34 RB25DE auto 4.363 R34 RB25DE manual Wheel widths shouldnt make a difference but i would be worried if the profile is taller/smaller as said above.

Don't mean to thread hijack but what would a well setup neo head with cams, Springs, retainers and correct shimming happyily rev to? Would 8500 be a big ask?

Believe they are the same ones spool sells?

Can I ask where from? And are you leaving the buckets stock?

Think its just a coincidence to be honest. The cracked bucket does worry me though as the next engine will be a NEO. Want to fit new springs and retainers but cant see uprated buckets anywhere. Or info on converting to shim under bucket.

No external cooler etc was added, All stock on that side. After initial turbo failure i flushed the car on tickover with a 5w30 semi 3 times to try clear any shite left over from the bearing on the turbo. Was told this was too thin and could cause damage but surely this is bullshit when running it on tickover?

Hi Guys, Throwing this on here to see what you think, Engine was bone stock with bolt ons. Car had covered approx 100,000 Miles, Mix of KMS and miles so no true idea. I ran round in the car stock for approx 10k miles my self and all was well, Super silent, Made good power, Burnt no oil etc After the car was rebuilt i fitted a new water pump, Single turbo kit and all other supporting mods Car was running fine, Sat at usual oil pressure on tickover (Just below middle on stock gauge) Has it mapped gradually for 1.2 Bar of boost on a HX35 12cm with no problems, Until my brand new turbo failed. Bearing collapse. Got a replacement sorted, And for piece of mind i flushed the oil with 4 lots of 5w-30 (Only on the 3rd oil change did i run the car gently round the block, the other times where purely tickover) Changed for a generic 5w-40 fully and carried on At this point the car developed a light tick, And using a stethoscope identified it was one of the exhaust lifters. Stupidly i ignored this and drove the car. Cue 50kms later and on hot tickover the oil light came on, As well as my gauge dropping to zero. Blipping the throttle and driving it the gauge read normal. Got home, Dropped the oil immediately to find a very fine metal content in the oil. f**k, Pulled off the rocker to find it had cracked a bucket, Shim rattling about hence the noise. Here are some photos anyway. Also as a result of the oil contamination, It has scored all the bearings in the bottom end (Driving the car obviuosly never helped) Now i have a few ideas, Oil pump failed which in turn killed the lifter, Small fragments then got chewed up and killed the bottom end. Other one is the lifter failed,, Killed the pump, Killed the bearings Third idea is turbo bearings killed the pump, killing the rest in turn. Or lastly the oil pressure problem was purely a dodgy sender and the rest of the problems came about due to the turbo? Would like to note there was no over revs, Missed gears or any particular hard use. Purely a few boost runs. Any input would be great! I Will also be building another engine out of a stock neo, So ideas on what to go for on a 600hp street car taking to regular track days would be nice, Idea at the moment is spool rebuild kit (Rods, pistons, bearings and headgasket. Along with arp bolts) Or do i throw a stroker in there? Surely its not needed? And another question, Are the 25NEO Buckets the same diameter as the 26 ones? Wouldnt mind converting to shim under bucket if possible... Again if its needed! Thanks!

Right the top photo i found, A/C Compressor which i thought but i had routed the loom incorrectly, So thats that sorted This one is still pissing me off though...

Bottom 3 photos are part of the loom the runs through the drivers wing, Back upto that brown module, And will only go in that corner it's a short loom. 2nd one is behind passenger front light

Hi, On with refitting my engine and loom to my R34 which I stripped to a bare shell last year. Got it in and mostly wired up, Bit struggling on where these 2 go. People have any idea? Any help on these 2 would be appreciated, Went from a bare engine bay to this! Thanks

Lol I know that GTSBoy... I meant as in porting to remove casting lumps & bumps, Or modified in other ways ie chopped up like the one Hypergear did. Can see the wastegare.

Holy shit that's incredible! Manifold completely stock? Do the ATR45 turbos sit in stock location with no spacer etc? Blew my theory of the stock manifold being restrictive out the water lol.

Thanks for the responses guys. turbo and manifold I already have, Turbo was cheap at £450 new and there supposed to hit 600hp max so just a tad over my goals. Need to dig a few dyno graphs/posts out of the turbo, supposed to be very responsive with the spec But we will see. Will be using 1 large gate as it merges into one at the bottom, turbosmart 50mm perhaps. what else would you change on it? 100% leaving intermale stock for now. On the manifold point as well I thought stock was shockingly restrictive at 350rwkw onwards? Hence people killing motor's and hypergear cutting that one up and making a custom one? Twin scroll should bring the boost threshold down too. For future reference I will put up graphs once the car is finished. Thanks!