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admS15 last won the day on April 24

admS15 had the most liked content!

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About admS15

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  • Car(s)
    S15, now R33 and M35

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  1. Vic member. In this post here, last quarter of the list. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476651-fs-r34-coupe-other-parts-garage-sale/&share_tid=476651&share_fid=62372&share_type=t FS: r34 coupe + other parts garage sale
  2. 400whp on e85 is a walk in the park for an RB25. Your oil leak is more likely to be from the rocker cover gasket or half moon seal rather than head gasket. Rear main and oil pan gasket, theres quite a few hours of labour there. Gearbox rebuild is around 2k, new box is around $3200 or you can just refill it with redline oil which will make it feel better. I don't know why you'd want to rebuild the engine if oil leaks are the the only issue. I can understand if you have real low or uneven compression or some other serious problem. My own rb25 has been making 420 rwhp on e85 for a few years now. Done over 30 track days where it gets completely flogged. Compression is still really good, i recently had the head off, everything looked in good knick, could still see factory hone marks on bores. Valves and guides where in great condition, as was the 23 year old head gasket. The only thing that wasn't great was one of the valve stem seals. IMHO if it aint broke dont fix it. If you really want an engine, there is an Sau member selling a forged rb25 for 3k. I suppose it's up to you how much you like your car whether it's worth it or not to get it back up to scratch. Personally i wouldn't be rebuilding unless i really had to or was aiming to increase power substantially.
  3. How about asking wolf for a base map. They should have something on their database.
  4. Remove anal stick from exhaust and car should run much better.
  5. So I finally got all this back together today. Decided to set the cam timing back to zero but threw on an adjustable cam gear just in case weird stuff started happening. I set it all up with an oem belt using the line markings on the belt lined up with the markings on the timing cover making sure it was spot on. I spun the motor over a few times, checked everything lined up again and then took a pic. In the pic it looks like it's a tooth advanced again, it's actually not. It's an optical illusion, if you drew a line on the belt it would actually line up with the marks correctly. So that solves that mystery, cam timing was correct all along. If you draw a line between the 0 and 2 on the belt you can see the nark does actually line up on the correct tooth. Couple of pics of the head as received back from its birthday. Apparently was in pretty good shape, is now as good as new. Block cleaned up New oem head gasket, arp studs, nsk idler and tensioner, new tensioner stud and spring, exh manifold studs, yokes and nuts, cam and crank seals completes the service. I also fitted a gmb rb30 water pump. I opted to use the gmb as that is what was already in it, it never leaked and water temps never went over 90 even after 20 minute track sessions. I modified the pump so i could fit a stud on the hole that didn't line up being an rb30 pump. Also received my turbo back from hypergear with a new exhaust housing and bigger wastegate puck. Didn't take a pic but it looks pretty much the same. So that concludes this drama. That was a hell of a lot of work. Shame it didn't really need to be done but at least everything is now in excellent shape and i shouldn't have to touch anything for a long time. Fingers crossed..
  6. Or #Barratheworld http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/p/1/id/21242 Best pry for you, cheap cheap
  7. Air would have been sucked back in to the cooling system from the loose lower hose and loose rad cap. Bleed it thoroughly and repeat test drive again before chasing anything else.
  8. Looks all good to me. Pretty sure earlier imports had the plate and later imports after mid 2000's had the engraving and pink sticker.
  9. I have an r33 gtst that has the plate like your mates car and i had an m35 stagea that had the number engraved into the strut tower, the m35 also had a pink adr compliance sticker stuck in the front passenger door frame area. I believe depending when and what state compliance was done in determines what type of plate you would have got. If your car is registered, i wouldn't be losing any sleep.
  10. I can confirm the weak link theory. I was lucky enough to get my hands on 1 of the last brand new ones available. Im going to cry if i break this one. Anyway, 1000hp minimum is a good starting point..
  11. Im running the dw300 pump with 740cc injectors, stock fpr, making 310rwkw. The above hardware will get you to 300rwkw but not much more. Im running at 90% duty cycle on the injectors with the above combo. You may do a little better with your 140amp alternator. I would source the flex sensor from a reputable source, i got mine through nistune after getting dodgy one through ebay.
  12. Put genuine nissan fan back on and drive off into the sunset. Modify intercooler setup to allow fitment. Brand new ones can be purchased from kudos Motorsport for around 170 if you can't find a good 2nd hand one that doesn't have micro cracks on it.
  13. Pretty sure vct is setup properly. On from 1500 to around 5-5200. I'll send you the map when i get a chance to get to the pc.
  14. Did you pull the seat base apart to have a look at the quality of the welds on the frame? I did when i had one and was horrified with what i saw. There was holes burnt through the thin metal and instead of throwing it out and starting again they just tacked inside the hole. Some reps are ok, others are not. You should definitely give the lower base and welds a thorough inspection. You will need to remove the lower fabric and padding. Pretty easy to take off and put back on. This is assuming they're reclineable and not bucket seats.
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