BensDR30

I can't remember the exact pinouts, and don't have a diagram for it. Having said that, it's not hard to work out; Remove the rear seat squab, and you'll expose the pump wiring going through the floor on the drivers' side. Trace that back to the controller, and then look for the 12V ign input. From there (you can also use the pump fuse as a confirmation of the correct 12V source), bridge the input & output wires together at the controller plug & leave the plug disconnected from the controller itself. The end result should be ign voltage at the pump regardless of throttle position.

Unfortunately, they're not the same as R/MR Ti switches - which is why I still have a hole on one of my rear side trims too... (I bridged the switch out many years ago after it too, disintegrated.) You know I forgot that I even needed a new switch for my car until I read this post!

The controller is triggered by the ECU/TPS to run at reduced voltage when the throttle is closed. You can bypass it and run the pump at battery voltage 100% of the time, for a few extra dB of pump noise and a little extra fuel heat... (which is exactly how my DR is now running with the Haltech ECU). One point of interest is that the controller may be getting hot because the pump is drawing excessive current, so it may be the pump that's faulty. I'd suggest that for starters you spend a few minutes bypassing the controller & then see what happens.

As the number of M35's slowly increases towards total dominance.... Welcome Dale, We're always too happy to hear about how good the Stagea is here - you see, we appreciate a good car! The R31 wagon is the late '80's workhorse of choice for plenty of people. I had a S1 Bluebird wagon for a few years as a parts-chaser, and it was so practical it wasn't funny. For the price of a C34 these days, they are the logical next step for the same sort of task.

Or about $70 for a full turbo gasket set from Nissan if you need any of the other seals.

Good call - I'd hate to think how thirsty the LS1 Adventra would be... Welcome to the 'club' of luxury import 'wagonning' (to all you M35 owners - don't forget that the '96 S1 was where it all started!) You'll be very happy with your purchase, and the depreciation isn't to shabby either.

Long story short; Auto trans = hydraulic drive = hi-pressure hydraulic fluid Manual trans = mechanical drive = low pressure gear oil That's the answer to your heat question.

The fault you have described is over-fuelling due to a metered-air leak. It's what makes AFM cars run like shite with atmospheric BOV's fitted. Even a loose oil dipstick will mess up the running of the engine.

I reckon it's covered in that brownish packing tape... (which is a pain to clean off)

I'd dispute that. My own L28 N42/N42 combo was only good for 13psi on 98RON + octane booster before detonation was unavoidable - the chamber shape is just not good enough for cylinder pressures that high. That turned ~140rwkW via the auto, using a 450x300x75 FMIC (2.5" piping), MSD6A, VG30ET turbo (0.120" enlarged turbine outlet w/T4 comp), Pipercross induction & 2.5" SS split-dump/system with 1 muffler. (along with heaps of other stuff, but you get the picture). Torque was pretty impressive though... You really need a P90 head for decent combustion control - and I have one of those that's now good for 320HP on the flow bench, along with a forged-piston bottom end, prepped rods & ARP fastners. Turbo will probably be a T3/4 'Stage V'-esque setup from somewhere like Turbonetics. I'm hoping for 210rwkW, and no fear of breakage. You're simply not going to make kW numbers that shame an RB25DET out of a non-xflow L-block without some serious work - I wish it was that easy. The rod/stroke ratio of the L28 doesn't help either. You will be able to get good torque - and that's because of the cubes, not the rpm's.

Unless you've hit something pretty hard, I'd say that someones machine needs calibration... Either that or the figures aren't from your car (that in itself is cause for you to take the matter further - perhaps even to your state automotive body). It's not uncommon for the left/right figures to be different, this is to account for the camber on the road (if we drove on the right, it would be the opposite). However, I can't comment on what they 'should' actually be as suspension geometry isn't an area that I get all that involved in.

feet

This is a most interesting situation. I agree that you've been duped regarding either the labour, parts (requirement thereof), or both. My RSFV, with 100% stock suspension (225/50/16 rubber) is currently running the following figures: (check your figures to see if they're in decimal-degrees or degrees/minutes/seconds) Front: Toe (total): +3.2 Camber L: -1.3 deg Camber R: -0.8 deg Castor 10 deg L: +4.1 deg Castor 10 deg R: +4.4 deg Rear: Toe (total):+2.2 Camber L: -2.0 deg Camber R: -1.7 deg Now the toe may not be ideal (as per Bob's suggestions), but that is not relevant in relation to the specific camber issues that you've got. (maybe I need to look at the rear camber on my car - or carry less crap around in it...)

That makes sense since the Stagea is a C34 Laurel wagon. You can FAST the OEM parts and then use parts master to see if there is any factory interchangeability - you never know what might turn up to be compatible.

pm sent

Robert, Edit your view - I'm still using a 'list' view with the max # of posts per page.

To confirm your suspicion of insufficient flow, you can simply disconnect the actuator from the flap - this will cause the flap to freely open under exhaust pressure (you could also use some wire to hold it open at all times). Take the car for a drive, and see if the boost still builds up too much. I have seen such an issue with an old Hitachi turbo on an L26 - we had to fit an external gate to sort it.

Maybe, But you M35 guys are jealous of our aftermarket support & ease of maintenance. (I agree that an M35 DIY sticky is due)

OK, According to my 2003 Nismo catalogue, the following is the full S-Tune kit for the M35 (4WD) 5300S-RSM55 It then has a parts breakdown as follows: 530FS-RSM55-R (FR Assembly) 530FS-RSM55-L (FL Assembly) 56210-RSM55 (rear shock) 55020-RSM55 (rear spring) The specs for the springs are: F: 8.3kgf/mm -20mm R: 9.2kgf/mm -20mm Hope this helps. *** edit*** pipped at the post while formatting my reply by iamhe77...

FWIW I would suggest then that the MicroTech's you have been exposed to have been tuned by cowboys, or at the request of an owner who couldn't be bothered paying for a full-range tune. Of course the NisTune will be good - their basis is the factory maps, whereas something like the MT is a 'from scratch' arrangement. (I'd love to fit a NisTune to my S1.. *curses Hitachi ECU*) I'm getting better economy, great cold start, idle and 50% power increase in my DR with an old Haltech E6A - tuned on a dyno by someone who knows what their doing, and then the odd minor tweak performed on the road. You've certainly got a few decisions to make, and it's good that you're asking the questions.

I'll have a look in my Nismo Catalogue sometime today & post the spring rates.

I must say, I'm with Robert & Ryan on this one... We don't know where the OP is located, but I think that it's reasonable to suggest that a test drive in a Stagea would have been possible. We then might be hearing a different story in regards to the AWD factor. Brakes; 80,000km old stock were ok (better than the Australian equivalent wagon, if you get my drift). New rear discs, slotted front discs, new pads (I'm using OEM), fresh fluid, and now an MC-stopper give me plenty of confidence in the factory system on the street. Better pads, braided lines & a higher-temp fluid would be a must for track work, but you find me a standard car (not supercar) that can cope with 5 flat-out laps on the track without toasting the factory setup... I have always owned RWD cars - I love driving my DR30, and the Z (although that's a fading memory since it's been off the road since mid-'06). But none of them come close to the confidence that the AWD gives in the Stagea. The limits of the grip & chassis continue to surprise me, even with stock suspension. Within reason, you can drive on dirt like it's bitumen, drive in the rain like it's dry, and take corner far too quickly and still come out smelling of roses. If you're that keen on RWD balls-n-all 'wagoning', then get a 260RS, pull the front shaft & add an aftermarket ECU. The RS-Four is a gem by design, and I personally like it the way it is. I'm not sure how you're going to go with the MicroTech + auto. There are several threads on 'aftermarket ECU's on these forums, but I haven't really payed too much attention to them (the Vi-Pec route is one that I am interested in, however). Just my 2c (recession) worth...

Cheers 'Stagea' That sounds about right, but I'll be damned if I can actually notice any change (had the car for 4+ years!). I'll turn it back on & have another look, but I expect that compliance has interfered with it (I suspect that such a feature wouldn't be ADR compliant). Suspected as much about the mirrors - the lack of convex is a real bugger. One day I'll get some JDM mirrors to fix the issue...

I like the price (cheaper than entry-level TEIN & Nismo S-Tune), and based on your website, I take it that you could you offer the Stagea parts with springs rated at say, 6/5.5? (I'm no expert on the best rate for a street Stagea, but I've read posts by others who suggest that the 4-4.5 range spring rate isn't really worth upgrading to, so I'm open to suggestions!)

I'm going to have to check if my aussie mirrors will de-fog , I know that windscreen de-icer works. But the real question is: What the heck does the 'Light Reduce' switch do? And it is messed with at compliance? I'll be damned if I can detect anything changing on my car with it 'on', so I leave it 'off'. I've heard plenty of 'theories', but no definitive answer. Further to that, if the feature is useful, then I'd like to know how it's been disabled at compliance. I have found no power on any of the wires going to the switch, nor any fuses that seems to relate to it.