deadsilly

do you have center and LHS vents?

Siliya has hit the nail on the head. What happens when you lean out your mixtures? You get more power. All these fuels test to be similar RON, so advance sould be similar. The results that we are seeing is how close to the fuel that the ECU was tuned with, (which was vortex).

Have a look at your air regulator, Air flow meter, AAC valve, and get your battery tested. As sugested do a test on the coils and check for cracks.

Check your air regulator. Do a search I have seen this on the forum before.

As I am sure everybody in this tread is like me and is sick and tired of the brake squeal problem. I encountered this problem when I recently upgraded my r32 gts-t hardware to r33 gts-t hardware with racebrakes RB74, and DBA 4000 rotors. Every where I called said that it was normal for this brake setup to make “some noise”, some noise? For the people with the really bad squeals I feel for you as I had a really bad one too (about 95dB, and that’s a little noise). Now I decided to take things into my own hands to find that my problem was fixable. As chris32 has said everybody has a different setup and has the squeal for different reasons. If you want to fix this problem you have to understand it first. Jack the car up and undo 4 bolts, 2 clips and 2 screw type things, and have a look. What we need to do here is find some remedies to common problems. - Have a look at the rotors are they really shinny (glassed), machine them. - Is there dark spots on the rotors (heat spots) machine them. - Is there cracks on the rotors (replace them) - Have a look at the pad surface are they smooth (sand paper them, or replace) - Are the pads worn unevenly (i.e. only some of the pistons working. rebuild) - Are the pads gone (there sometimes is a metal wear indicator) replace - Are the four shims in place (two solid, two with groves, if not put them in) - Have you got some lubricant between the shims and the pads ($12 from super cheap) - I am sure there are more that people can add Now the first thing you will notice when you put a wheel brace near the rims is that they chime like bells. This is the reason why the squeal like a pig if there is any reason for them to. Once you have had a look report back to the forum with fixes and the hardware you have. Car: r32 gts-t 4door Rotors: dba 4963 Capilers: r33 gts-t stamped nissan Pads: Racebrakes RB74 Problem: very very loud near stoped (>40km/h) Fix: Installed the four shims that the shop took out, added dyna grip disc brake squeal free Results: pedal seems the same if anything it is a little firmer, but same pressure results in a minor reduction in brakeing force (barely noticable). No noise

I have been just bitten by this problem after a r32 brake upgrade. dba400 r33 gtst calipers. I have noticed that if it gets really bad I need to stick it in reverse. This seems to fix it for a little bit. Damn if racebrakes rb74's are "low dust, low noise". 10 k's after the upgrade rims are black and complaining like a girl. I guess every 10k's we need to jam it in revese.

Get the car on a Dyno. You either get the car tuned befor you buy it or you walk away saving big money. I looked at mine for 4 hours on three seperate days. Finally got the thing it leaned out and killed the engine. Fuel pump / injector clean / after market blowoff valve fault. :microwave If only I got it on a dyno sooner

Engine/Car: r32 gts-t rb20det Type of failure: rings / turbo Factors influencing the failure: unknown, atm bov? injectors cloged? oil? State of tune of the engine: cat back/ pod filter / stock boost Suspension and tyres: std Oil used and service interval: just picked car up (they had just changed oil) General comments: The car went like a dream untill they changed the oil. The car start pinged going up a hill (backed off) got to top bov went off car stalled. restarted car then noting but smoke. atm bov was spraying oil lots of it. pressure from cylinders was spitting dip stick out and spraying oil. went back to dealer they replaced engine turbo. Now the oil pressure is getting low when the car has been running for 40min+. I am also starting to get pinging when the engine is hot under full boost. :hellpisd: what do I do as QLD is starting to warm up which I Know will cause more problems.