Tangles01

I've just bought a house, so It will have to wait, meaning no old rush this year unfortunately. CD is an option but OS Giken Gearset is probably winning at the money for speed and cost when I do get onto it. Although I had always planned to go a 6 speed in the future, I am not ready for it just now and the 5 speed gets me in the car quicker and easier.

I had 1, 2, 3, and 4 5th was the quitter.

Also looking into this as I ripped 5th in my 25 box a new one during time attack on the weekend.

Yep, really bad

Well for the very few of you who are interested. Here' the result of my latest track day. Abject Failure

All runs up the mountain

Not sure. need to get a surge tank. and the power tune. Also fifo work makes it hard to plan.

correct. Gold rush hill sprint. Burnett highway from Boulercome to Mount Morgan.

1.53.001

Still pending the full tune, ran out of time, ran it on 14PSI

Update. I've entered the gold rush hill sprint. Watch my youtubes (click on the vid above and sub and shit) I'll be filming.

Yes that's true mate. but still it works. And there was a silly timing issue where if it were close it would have kissed the valves, so I'm pretty confident it's okay. I might have gotten lucky, I might have measured the piston height. It was that long ago when I did it I can't honestly recll, but I remember not doing much about it, and not doing it right if I did anything.

I'll have to be honest, I winged it on that lol. But head and block were virgin just got a skim for the MLS gasket and sent it. I did hand rotate her, clear is clear.

You miss spelled 30psi

GTX-3076 10.5:1 compression E85 262 tomie cams Hand ported head VCT Custom 6boost style mani 3.5 inch zauzt 690nm peak torque And it's fresh obviously. I need to do a comp test now it's run it. More supporting stuff but those are the power makers. All the build detail is on the channel

After years of delays hold ups, lack of motivation... I Got the Engine done and took the old girl where she belongs, back to the track. 95% off all my research was on here trawling the forums for engine build info. Ive got vids on all the rebuild including every failure along the way but it was all worth it because.... well look below i's awesome 380RWHP on 14psi running her in, can't wait to turn her up.

22kg

That's what I thought thanks I'm off to gap my rings and continue building. Thanks guys for confirming it.

Thanks for your feedback, I know the difference, I'm just after confirmation as to what others have done and are doing. If it is out of round though it will affect how the ring sit, when gaping and affect that measurement, but like I said It's probably negligible.

Hi gents, I've done a lot of looking, I even posted on an old thread for clarification, but no dice. Yes there is bulk information on what gaps should be I'm all good with that, going with the manufacturers specs for my build. The one thing I have not seen clearly (Sorry if it has been sorted but I cannot find it) is the torque plate. Now the right way to gap the rings is using a torque plate if the block was machined with a torque plate. and yes there will be an amount of inaccuracy gaping rings without one, but in all the ring gaping talk on here no-one really says if they were or were not using one at the time. It's my gut feel that most people who have gaped their own rings have not been using one. I don't have or have access to a torque plate, the one thread this was mentioned someone did ask if others were using one and there was 1 response saying that they hadn't so that's 2 people who ave gaped their rings without. That's not a big enough sample size. And if you are doing it without, is there a rule of thumb allowance for the gaping I have seen in other places where they discuss a 1 or 2 though increase in the gap to compensate for the torqued condition and having the rings close up a smidgen when the head is on. Or are the specs taking that into account. My gaps according to my use will be .007" per in dia with 86.5mm bores that's an ample gap of 23.8 rounded to 24 thou. (according to the total seal chart for medium boost 15-30PSI on E85). I feel like this gap if anything is a bit big and any shrinkage of that gap due to the distortion will never result in any sort of butting, my reasoning being many engines built for street and low boost application with much smaller gaps end up being turned up a long way eventually and n o-one bother to re gap their rings as a part of the big boost mods. I do apologise if this is covered in detail somewhere, but the question on the torque plate for the guys building at home I just can't seem to find an answer for.

Man I've been searching for hours looking for a direct answer to this. I know they "should" be gapped using a torque plate, but well I don't have one and when people are talking about gaping them, they never seem to mention if they were using one, I find it hard to believe everyone has a mate with a torque plate. I'm on hold on mine just trying to confirm I though I had found some good evidence to just open them up another 2 thou to allow for the change when the head is bolted. But can't seem to find it. Anyone else got some input on this? I'm inclined to think that I'll be fine with the slightly bigger gap as state, or is even that not worth bothering with?

Thanks for the responses guys, engine is almost built haven't logged in in quite a while, I do have videos of all the work I've done. I might put them up here when I'm done.

I know this is an old thread but it's exactly what I'm doing/looking into. I've had 333 RWKW on a GTX3076R (Gen 1) .86 housing at 21PSI in a stock internals RB25. Now inevitably it's failed and I'm rebuilding currently. However since I'm going forged with all the bits I want to push the turbo to it's upper limit. Because I'm doing time attack the higher boost smaller turbo concept for good responsive power is what I'm after. Looking at compressor maps is a worry though, although i cannot find a Gen 1 GTX map on garrets website??? I can find the Gen 2 and the GT3076R. Looking at the GT compressor map the surge line is at about 2.3 Comp ratio which is about 20PSI (ish) the Gen 2 GTX has a very nice wider map area at that section, but is probably not relevant. I also have an anti surge housing though, which is specifically for surge protection and does push that line to the left allowing more boost and a BOV is always run as well, also allowing more... but It's really guesswork it seems as to how far you can go. Previously I was thinking it would run our of air/puff in the high 20's maybe 30 PSI at the most. But now thinking it may fall well short, with no detail on how much further I can push whit the anti surge and the BOV. Any Turbo efficiency gurus? I do plan to break that 400 RWKW ceiling listed here though... If this is the right place I'll update when it's done, if this is the wrong place? Fee free to shift my post to the right area I?

No not forgetting the mains being bolted up, yep will be a pain in the arse, but has been considered. If i decide to do it this way I'll let everyone know how much of a pain it is and If i think it's worth it lol.

Yeah, another good idea, I'll see how I go, but also good to have the backup plan, no-one can poke a hole in the upside down access whit the head bolted on yet, so I know I can do it if needed. Cheers.