NZ-GTT

Troll!

I've done more research. The torque specs given by Nissan for the RB26 match that of a grade 12.9 M18 x 1.5 bolt. Assuming that Nissan used the same grade on the RB25 & 30, the torque range for a M16 x 1.5 bolt is 300 - 380nm depending on the surface friction coefficient. I used ARP lube which changes the coefficient even more. I've ordered an ARP bolt and will follow their recommendations. I've had a balancer come loose before and don't want a repeat. Thanks for the advise.

I was following the advise given here: http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-tech/ at the bottom of the page. He makes no mention of using an aftermarket bolt. I'll get another bolt and do over again thanks. What do you consider a moderate increase?

The RB26 is 446 - 544NM for a M18 x 1.5 bolt which is more than the recommended for a grade 10.9 of that size. the rb30 has a M16 bolt with a recommended torque setting of 142-152NM which is less than that of a M16 grade 8.8 bolt. Seems a bit loose and I want to push this engine beyond what the Nissan factory intended. Should I leave it since it has achieved that torque or replace it with ARP?

My 26/30 is about ready to go in and I have been putting off torquing up the crank bolt to 400nm as recommended by Lewis engines on his website. I started torquing it up in stages and the bolt reached it's yield at 350nm. After that it kept turning. Luckily I had a spare bolt and changed it out and this one torqued up to 400nm. That's Really F***en Tight! I used ARP lube on the first one and the second one went in dry but I assume there was still lube inside the crank. Any thoughts?

I wouldn't just reroute it , replace it as well. It's been compromised by the heat.

The glove box is too small, relocate the tool kit to the boot and just store your gloves in there. Seriously mate your car is roughly 30 years old and anything could go wrong. Fix the issues you know exist.

Pull the hose off the wastegate actuator and plug it then add 2 bottles of octane booster to your fuel tank.

The US 25 year import laws play a big part in the value of these cars, and as of January this year it is legal to import the R33 into the USA which means prices are set to increase even more.

Have a read of this thread mate.

Does it still work when plugged back into the car? If not I would check that the ribbon cables are seated properly.

As above you need to put 12V on pin 3 for acc power source. I powered mine up while removed from the car, it does not need the vehicles computers.

I presume this is a r34 gtt so sounds like a faulty instrument cluster. The mileage is stored in an eprom which is non volatile memory, so a dead battery would not cause this.

Definitely do not remove needles and dial faces. You must remove all the screws on the circuit board including the ones holding the gauges and it should lift off the back of the cluster. You can disassemble it like in the picture but I found it was not necessary to remove the front covers on both the GTT and GTR clusters.