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About ~KnuckleDuster~

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    Rank: RB20E

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  1. The motor is in a 73 Datsun 240z so no a/c or ps to worry about. I have another ecu on hand I could throw in..
  2. Ok so blocked off the vac to the aac and started it up. Still revs to 2k but will hunt from 1300 to 2k. With the vac blocked and aac unplugged the car starts up fine and the idle is wavering around 1000, revs and sounds healthy. Is that a sufficient enough way to bypass this thing? Is it ok to leave the coolant running through it?
  3. Pretty sure I don't have a leak, I have a full time vac gauge in the car. Ill see what happens when I block the hose off and run it today. If I could get away with just bypassing this thing I will. I'll do that as a last resort. I put the tps back to 0.2 and the idle was still 1500. Used to idle around 750-850 prior to me touching the tps. I'm using the consult port and running datascan software so I can select values on the aac. If I put it anywhere from 1-9 the idle drops down. So it's as if the aac is just staying wide open unless manually told to do something different.
  4. The timing was around 17* last I checked when the idle was low enough. The throttle stop bolt is backed out all the way. The black plastic adjustment screw which was broken off was at least tightened all the way down which is the lowest point for the idle to be at but the idle was still at 1300. I chipped out the broken screw and put in a medal adjustment screw from an rb26. Now the idle is at 2k. If I unplug the aac the idle is still high around 1100-1200. I just don't get why adjusting the tps from .2 to .4 has f'ed this whole thing up! Worst part is I'm in the US and finding an AAC from a DE is insanely difficult.
  5. Hah your right. I have a spare aac on its way so I can replace the screw and go from there I suppose.
  6. I thought I would add a little motivation to this thread since some people say that most N/A mods are useless. In a heavier car like a Skyline a set of extractors may not be that noticeable but in a 2000 lb car with a rb25de it's very noticeable regardless of how much power your actually making from it. After doing my extractors I noticed the tq curve shift much higher in the rev range, more top end power, and the sound of course. With n/a you can't expect big changes from any one mod, you have to be willing to spend the money to get all the supporting mods and still have no where near the power a turbo will make. I've owned turbo cars and their amazing but I've always had a soft spot for a responsive quick n/a car. I've got an rb25de neo out of a 98 R34, I've done custom warm air intake, extractors, 3" crush bent exhaust, light flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, no PS or AC. My next step will be camshafts to take advantage of the mods I've done so far. Here's a video of the car without extractors and a 3.9 ratio rear end, video above the rear end is a 4.4
  7. Anyone? If I'm a dummy feel free to let me know. Iv'e attempted to set the base idle per the write ups, I lowered the tps closed voltage back to where it was at .2 and still high. Cleared the ecu memory. Not sure if there's another song and dance I need to perform to have the new tps setting dialed in or if the next step would be to open up the aac and inspect that.
  8. The motor is an Rb25de from an R34. I noticed my tps voltage was .20 closed. I adjusted it to oem specs at 4.5 or so and that's when I started getting the high adle around 1300-1500. If I unplug the aac the idle goes back to normal. If I set any values on the aac in consult the idle goes back to normal. I thought I may have a bad tps and installed a new unit but the same thing. The aac adjustment screw is all the way down (and broken so I cant back it out again). I've cleaned it out a while back but never had an issue until now. Not sure why my idle is screwed now because I touched the tps..
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