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About K_arlstrom

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    Rank: RB20E

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  1. Maybe it's like example 3 in this manual? (where I stole the other picture) http://www.turbosmart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/TS-0506-1001_Hypergate45_MAY_12_rev-2.pdf
  2. Been writing with Piggaz in PM (he is running a 2.8 vs my oversized 2.6), and he thinks the 0.92 is way to small. You have some good points, but fabricating the downpipe/WG-return won't be an issue, even if I like the simplicity with the integrated one. For now the 1.05 is ahead. Did my homework on matchbot and I would get away with a 40mm unit even for low boost, no need for dual 60mm screamers RICE: phase + anti phase capsule control? Like the attached image?
  3. Should be the same back and front, R33/34, S14/15 subframes are wider.. I will need different offset on mine when it's completed since I swaped for a S15 subframe, unless I do something silly and swap/rebuild the front too
  4. I'm looking at a top mount single on a 6-boost manifold for next summer, the RB26 should be able to handle pretty much anything I throw at it (fully forged etc). Currently got two N1 ball bearing turbos, a bit over 400rwhp and it's not enough It will be used as a summer toy, some trackdays, dragrace and whatever sounds like fun. The issue is that I still want it to be useable on the road to get to car meets and hang out, or just go on a cruise in the sunset/sunrise. EFR 8374 is the one I'm looking at, but I'm having a hard time deciding what size would be the perfect match for my engine, don't want to loose that much response Soo... whats the conclusion among all you experienced people? 0,92 A/R internal gate VS 1,05 A/R external IF 1,05 A/R, worth it to go with two gates to keep it "true" twinscroll? Aluminum CHRA VS steel, how much difference does it make for the manifold?
  5. I found a lot of lovely rust, even more than expected, and my new crank got lost during shipping with no refund possible for some months Sooo, it will take some time (personal goal, summer 2019). Also found out that the car most likely has been in a crash and repaired, not too satisfied with the welding I've found and will do it properly. Might do a full seamweld while I'm at it, pretty much down to a bare shell instead of assembling right now! Consider this thread delayed but not forgotten
  6. Got front and rear subframe powdercoated, ordered every hardrace bushing that would fit, the 20th of april, but guess the joke's on me since there was a mixup and I'm still waiting. Had to get some nismo items too, and ended up with gktech conversion bushes (poly) for the actual subframe. Looking forward to see if I notice any difference in the end, this has made me realize how I hate waiting! Let me know if you want any more update on this
  7. Oh, so that's why! Guess I will be good to go without the lower support then, just shorter bolts (grade 8.8 or what I can find on the "good" shelf at the local hardware store). If anyone is of any other opinion, let me know before I get it powdercoated this weekend Also might have figured out the front supports, those seem to be for counterweights on non gtr 32's (according to nissan fast). Some conclusions comparing BNR32 and S15 subframe; Lower arm position updated Reduced weight, diff bolts straight to subframe No mount for vibration dampers on the front end (non GTR) ±No HICAS R32 camber arm has to be reused Offset bushes are needed I thought I would save time by buying a new subframe, prepare it and then just switch over a weekend, fooled myself again!
  8. Sooo, I hope someone of you have done this and can give me some advice. The R32 subframe got 4 bolts for the front of the rear diff, will probably just move the R32 part over to the S15 subframe (cut and weld). But how about the other reinforcement in front of the R32 front bushes? And the overall feeling is that the R32 subframe looks stronger. Any thoughts and advices, let me have them
  9. Great guide! Did something similar with NGK U5014 coils, they have very similar dwell time as the stock coils and are supposed to be the most reliable out of the VAG assortment. This cost me less than 200€ (including connectors) and I can buy new coils pretty much anywhere in Sweden if one breaks down, people claim over 200 hp capability on these. Now I should complete the new middle cover and tidy up the rest of the engine bay...
  10. EDIT on above: Found the pinout, pin 29, front oxygen sensor, is the square one, called O2-1 in the PFC. Took my time to measure on the car. Now I will try and switch the sensors around to rule out ECU breakdown before I send my new sensor back to australia...
  11. I'm not sure either, but since my wideband lambda says the car is running rich again (and I recently replaced the O2 sensors) I can't ignore the "what if" the front O2 sensor affects the 3 front injectors and same for the rear? The front sensor reports the engine running lean (0.0V most of the time, jumps up to about 0.5V when I press the throttle and acceleration enrichment comes to play) and the rear one says it's running rich (about 0.8V most of the time). O2 feedback is enabled, and O2 sensor reg is disabled. From what I understand the O2 reg setting is for compatibility with the older 12mm thread sensors, and I got the 18mm "new" sensors in my downpipes. This leaves me with 2 options as far as I can see: 1. The front O2 sensor broke down after 1 week and about 200km driving 2. Something happened to the injector controller and one of the front injectors isn't opening as it should. I've switched the 3 front and rear injectors to rule them out. Thanks for your time, and you deserv a mental high five for your homepage!
  12. I've been searching the web for an answer to this for a week, didnt find one in this thread either... Anyone that actually know? Think I might have mixed up my front and rear O2 sensor, but since I cant find anything about them I can only confirm which one is 1 and 2. Got the regular (non d-jetro) PFC Thanks in advance.