K_arlstrom

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About K_arlstrom

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    Rank: RB20DE

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  • Car(s)
    BNR32
  • Real Name
    Jonas

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  1. K_arlstrom

    Bumping this thread, trying to get out the hub out from the knuckle after removing the entire assembly from the car... I clamped the knuckle to a piece of wood, stood on it and went at it with my sliding hammer as hard as I could. Nothing besides me and the entire knuckle/wood thingy moved a single mm. Just want to verify, the snap-rings are only there to hold the bearing, right? Any options besides more heat, more lube and more force?
  2. MrStabby, if you look at the next page you see where/how to measure "point 5" Inner gear and housing flange clearance, 0.045·0.091
  3. My 32, not a single yet but should be enough to show your painter since it's atleast a 26 (Don't worry, all bare aluminum is bead blasted now to look the same. Engine out and sorting the rest of the ugly bits too)
  4. K_arlstrom

    Teflon hoses and as straight and short as possible aluminum pipe. Fuelab 41402 pump, dont know what gallons they used in the attached chart, but it should suffice any day of the week 🤓 (got a vision/goal of everything being able to handle 500 awkw on E85) My rough calculation told me I would end up with a 3 psi drop, but anything below 5 feels acceptable. Someone should sticky this thread
  5. K_arlstrom

    Wow! Thats awesome information, tried to guestimate/calculate the same thing when I refreshed my fuel system, but it ended up a bit low compared to the real numbers you found! Attached image is of stock fuelrail inlet/outlet vs AN8 fitting... Notice the sharp and narrow left connection? Got myself some AN8 lines in the end, should be enough for me and my 530 LPH pump
  6. Fairly similar from what I can find, not close enough to stop it from lashing back and forth. They state that it's normal, but they didn't want to give any recommended clearance or warranties, "If it works, it works, we got out money" is how I read their reply. Old pump didn't break, but were visibly worn where it's reported to break. Since I'ts an engine out job, and the pump had bits of bearing in the cogs, I wanted a solid replacement to never have to think about it again. Anyways, everyone who has read the thread seems to be ok with Reimax gears and the, IMHO, massive clearance. Keep an eye out for it at a bargain price on ebay ;)
  7. Not stock, no, but the N1 pump that's been in the last 8000 Km. N1 got somewhere just over 0.30mm but it still showing signs of wear on the edge where it usually breaks. I want to feel "safe" pushing the engine, and since the pump had to be replaced or upgraded, I thought "better safe than sorry" and bought the salespitch. The gear might be up to the task, but it just seems too much. So, for all you who prefer thou to mm, reimax: ~18 thou and N1 ~12 thou.
  8. Shameless bump to see if it's possible to start the discussion. Got a reply today where they claim this is as intended, would you feel ok with this much play?
  9. Since their answer regarding my issue has taken over a week, I feel that a heads up regarding reimax oil pump gear clearance is justified. Found some old threads with this issue, then some newer ones stating that it's fine, and went for the "cheap" solution. This is the fitment of the uprated oil pump (over 0.45mm, got a 0.05 feeler gauge blade stacked beneath) on a brand new crank. Let me know what your experience has been with Reimax or similar solutions! Now, I'm waiting for a spline drive kit.. Don't do the same mistake as I did, the expensive solution will just cost even more (I lost oil pressure which led to bearing failure, and the crank needed a lot of work to be ok again. Someone, at some time, fitted a narrow nose crank in my late -93 R32. The oil pump chewed some small pieces of the bearing so it too had to be replaced or repaired.)
  10. There are some pictures comparing the R32 subframe with the S15 subframe in this thread, does the front diff have a lower brace with 4 bolts, or is it just 2 bolts?
  11. Maybe it's like example 3 in this manual? (where I stole the other picture) http://www.turbosmart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/TS-0506-1001_Hypergate45_MAY_12_rev-2.pdf
  12. Been writing with Piggaz in PM (he is running a 2.8 vs my oversized 2.6), and he thinks the 0.92 is way to small. You have some good points, but fabricating the downpipe/WG-return won't be an issue, even if I like the simplicity with the integrated one. For now the 1.05 is ahead. Did my homework on matchbot and I would get away with a 40mm unit even for low boost, no need for dual 60mm screamers RICE: phase + anti phase capsule control? Like the attached image?
  13. Should be the same back and front, R33/34, S14/15 subframes are wider.. I will need different offset on mine when it's completed since I swaped for a S15 subframe, unless I do something silly and swap/rebuild the front too
  14. I'm looking at a top mount single on a 6-boost manifold for next summer, the RB26 should be able to handle pretty much anything I throw at it (fully forged etc). Currently got two N1 ball bearing turbos, a bit over 400rwhp and it's not enough It will be used as a summer toy, some trackdays, dragrace and whatever sounds like fun. The issue is that I still want it to be useable on the road to get to car meets and hang out, or just go on a cruise in the sunset/sunrise. EFR 8374 is the one I'm looking at, but I'm having a hard time deciding what size would be the perfect match for my engine, don't want to loose that much response Soo... whats the conclusion among all you experienced people? 0,92 A/R internal gate VS 1,05 A/R external IF 1,05 A/R, worth it to go with two gates to keep it "true" twinscroll? Aluminum CHRA VS steel, how much difference does it make for the manifold?
  15. I found a lot of lovely rust, even more than expected, and my new crank got lost during shipping with no refund possible for some months Sooo, it will take some time (personal goal, summer 2019). Also found out that the car most likely has been in a crash and repaired, not too satisfied with the welding I've found and will do it properly. Might do a full seamweld while I'm at it, pretty much down to a bare shell instead of assembling right now! Consider this thread delayed but not forgotten