K_arlstrom

Im already balls deep with an empty (slightly) rusted shell 😂 Sure will mod the house, already got skyline parts all over it! Haha

It sure will! And then it's the balance between need and want. I've also had a change of heart like Shoota_77, the skyline boom made it too valuable (imho) to have it as a track toy. Now I want it to be more of a gt car

Mine is in a sad state... Life caught up, gotta spend the money on the house like a boring grownup 😅 Fix car to sell and get the house in order, or take it slow with my home as a priority... (I hate it, but I get to keep the car)

Garrett just launched a new disco potato! 🤯 Still prefer the simplicity of a single, but found it interesting enough to share with you. GBC22-350 https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/garrett-boost-club-line-gbc22-350/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=clublineturbo

Don't you all know that it's possible to adjust how much you use the throttle? You don't have to push it all the way to the floor (speaking of that, I'm certain that most local cars are sold without one, as they have issues reaching 70 km/h in less than 2 minutes!)

Haha, indeed! A car lasts way longer ? Sounds a lot like a modern version of a led sled, must be a joy to cruise around in!

Best type of insanity! My worst fear at the moment is that my car will get too good, that the driving will feel dull since I can't use its potential. Oh well, back to topic, this is your thread after all! You went with a trigger kit, s13 subframe and newer color. Got any other modification to share with the rest of us? Found the thing that will make it truly your car? (maybe the dash?)

Will do! I'm two steps behind you but probably close to 45k AUD deep into my rebuild... Always a comfort to see someone else go all out too ?

Bold move! Need to see how it ends up

Can't see it without signing up for facebook, can you post a screenshot of the dyno?

Dang... I couldn't even sell mine for 300€ including shipping ? got that and 2 oem ECU collecting dust on a shelf, will try and put it on ebay one last time before I bin it! Will most likely use a maxxecu (what the local tuner prefer)

I prefer anything over tapatalk, even avoid forums that keep showing popups for it... Never seen the advantage of it ? @PranK, thank you for valuing our privacy!

I'll share what I have, this applies to MR2 "Spyder" EHPS. 5V digital PWM (on-off) to pin 2 in the middle connector, someone measured frequency VS current draw/pump output. 20 Hz 8.5A 36 Hz 7A 52 Hz 5.6A 63 Hz 5A 83 Hz 4A 110 Hz ~3A >150 Hz 2.2 - 2.7A Information regarding pin numbers and some more good-to-have can be found at https://www.ffcars.com/forums/1812812-post48.html

Probably a full tube of some sticky stuff on mine, had to use a sledgehammer to force a knife trough it Everything but the paint survived! (going for a full respray anyways)

I'm going for another solution, electrohydraulic power steering pump from a mr2! More info on this site https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/power-steering-using-toyota-mr2-ehps-19505.html%3famp=1 Not because I've had issues, but my rebuild/refresh turned into a restomod and this also gives me more space under the bonnet. Hope someone got experience with the bracket

Sorry for not giving a status update here. The group-buy died from lack of interest, after 2 months I had a total of 3 people interested in buying. When I informed my contact at wavetrac about it, he replied "Not a problem. I’ve also put the word out a bit to see if I can get some interested as well. I’ll keep you updated." Wavetrac were going to handle shipping and payment trough their retail network, so being located in Hong Kong wouldn't have been much of an issue!

I got R8 coils (ngk u5014) in mine, because its much easier for me to get a spare up here in northern Sweden. Not to mention similar dwell and such compared to oem coils! They aint too bad, but r35 are better. https://youtu.be/4d3nrBZjYKA

Hard lesson to learn! Label everything, and make sure to use a permanent marker (failed at this on an older, simpler, car). Have removed everything from my 32, will see if I got enough notes in a couple of months or need to look at pictures of how its supposed to be done

Got an older 41402 in mine, it's LOUD (part of that might be my close to solid mount) but does what it's supposed to! Nothing bad to say about the brand, but I would look at a mechanical pump for this/higher flow the next time.

Ended up finding two spots to make tiny holes, where it won't hit the head on the other side even if it sticks out some tenths! Mission accomplished, saving the last porting to some other evening...

Well.. The manifold to stud fitment leaves a lot to wish for... Hence the extra alignment idea. Guess this is a fail on the sanity check! xD I take it as noone butchered a rb head and know where there is extra material?

Ok, just a safety-check before I wreck something... Please draw on the attached image where you mean to avoid misstakes. I'm about to fit alignment pins (2mm) to align my knock-off manifolds with the head and the gaskets, 2 per manifold will do the job. Will need to drill approximately 5mm in to the head, where will it be thick enough so I don't hit an oil or water alley?

Just a note on that, my 100 cell cat is working, and my car passed emissions with it (to the standards set by Nissan, that can be seen in the engine bay). I believe that there are bogus catalytic converters, and those that are truly working...

Since my google-skills ain't good enough to find anything about this on the internet, I'm throwing the question at you. 78112-05U30 is the part number FAST gets me for a new rear fender, when I looked up the cost I noticed a special Nismo rear quarter/fender (78112-06U30). Anybody know anything about this? How is it different from the regular one?

Thats what we get for just reading and not typing anything 8374 might still be the better "scary fast street RB"-turbo