cowie165

Far out Sean, great purchase mate. And nice toys inside!

Just a quick post to say cheers Deren for uploading the video! Exciting times mate!

Deren can I come to start up? It's an event that mustn't be missed! Mark

+1 And sneakyazn we all agreed it's an R33 dude, that's the whole point of the thread.

Didn't Paul advertise twoogle for around $60k? It was a while back, can hardly remember.

The forum is right, but it's here for people to learn. If you added a few more details to your post it could still be helpful. More info is better.

Not 100% for R33, but on my R32 all it did was light a warning lamp on the dash. Wasn't actually an ECU input iirc. Probably best to get a second opinion, but chances are it's fine to bolt the hole.

Wow, sounds like a winner mate, nice. That condition is a pretty good indicator. The odometer rarely lines up once it has been rewound. Plus, the purchase price may be an indicator as guys selling good cars will not sell them for same as the old clunkers, and it's hard (not impossible) to pass off an old clunker as a good car. Nulon 10-40W sounds like the ticket. Well, any 10-40 but if Nulon floats your boat, then go for it. I'm no oil expert, yet I never had any dramas relating to oil or ever sat there thinking "...if only I bought the Royal Purple..."

Corey is that a genuine 80,000kms or is that just what the speedo says? Mark

4 years on and I have my answer! Cheers

lmao especially at C. sbyder: Yes dude, that was sarcasm. I listed the reasons for sale in that order because they all contradict the one before it. He's selling the car for medical reasons (ie. can't drive it anymore) but can deliver it to the right buyer... etc. If he had a deceased family member too, he'd have enough reasons to claim car-sale "Yahtzee!"

You guys are so harsh - he's selling the car for medical reasons. But he can drive it to the right buyer. And he needs the money. And he's interested in swaps for a TT Supra. The poor dodgy bastard just can't get a break

If it doesn't rub, you're all set. IIRC 6 to 8 clicks is what's in the workshop manual. If you replace the front left only, you'll probably end up with uneven braking, as one caliper clamps before the other. With the left disc being new (ie. thicker) it'll meet the pad before the other side does. As you keep pressing your foot down to get the right side to clamp, it'll now be pressing harder on the left side, and so on. So you'll prob end up with the car steering left every time you hit the brakes. It has been a while since I changed the brakes on my R32 but I don't remember there being any way to tighten one caliper in particular. You'd need to be able to offset the pistons, which you might be able to do when you bleed the brakes after changing the disc. Actually no, I don't think you can because you cant adjust individual calipers on a stock car. Anyway, I highly recommend changing both, but I guess it depends on how worn the right side is. If the thickness is fairly close, you could be in luck. If you REALLY wanted to only change one, you could have the new one machined to reduce its thickness to match the right hand disc.

lol yeah I can see where you're coming from I'm still gunshy even after oil changes - since I botched a remote filter install on the GTR and dumped 5L all over the garage floor in maybe 5 seconds. Er, oops...! God bless rental properties

Deren I hope you're hosting a party on engine start day. There are people that need to see this car in person!