cowie165

Far out Sean, great purchase mate. And nice toys inside!

Just a quick post to say cheers Deren for uploading the video! Exciting times mate!

Deren can I come to start up? It's an event that mustn't be missed! Mark

+1 And sneakyazn we all agreed it's an R33 dude, that's the whole point of the thread.

Didn't Paul advertise twoogle for around $60k? It was a while back, can hardly remember.

The forum is right, but it's here for people to learn. If you added a few more details to your post it could still be helpful. More info is better.

Not 100% for R33, but on my R32 all it did was light a warning lamp on the dash. Wasn't actually an ECU input iirc. Probably best to get a second opinion, but chances are it's fine to bolt the hole.

Wow, sounds like a winner mate, nice. That condition is a pretty good indicator. The odometer rarely lines up once it has been rewound. Plus, the purchase price may be an indicator as guys selling good cars will not sell them for same as the old clunkers, and it's hard (not impossible) to pass off an old clunker as a good car. Nulon 10-40W sounds like the ticket. Well, any 10-40 but if Nulon floats your boat, then go for it. I'm no oil expert, yet I never had any dramas relating to oil or ever sat there thinking "...if only I bought the Royal Purple..."

Corey is that a genuine 80,000kms or is that just what the speedo says? Mark

4 years on and I have my answer! Cheers

lmao especially at C. sbyder: Yes dude, that was sarcasm. I listed the reasons for sale in that order because they all contradict the one before it. He's selling the car for medical reasons (ie. can't drive it anymore) but can deliver it to the right buyer... etc. If he had a deceased family member too, he'd have enough reasons to claim car-sale "Yahtzee!"

You guys are so harsh - he's selling the car for medical reasons. But he can drive it to the right buyer. And he needs the money. And he's interested in swaps for a TT Supra. The poor dodgy bastard just can't get a break

If it doesn't rub, you're all set. IIRC 6 to 8 clicks is what's in the workshop manual. If you replace the front left only, you'll probably end up with uneven braking, as one caliper clamps before the other. With the left disc being new (ie. thicker) it'll meet the pad before the other side does. As you keep pressing your foot down to get the right side to clamp, it'll now be pressing harder on the left side, and so on. So you'll prob end up with the car steering left every time you hit the brakes. It has been a while since I changed the brakes on my R32 but I don't remember there being any way to tighten one caliper in particular. You'd need to be able to offset the pistons, which you might be able to do when you bleed the brakes after changing the disc. Actually no, I don't think you can because you cant adjust individual calipers on a stock car. Anyway, I highly recommend changing both, but I guess it depends on how worn the right side is. If the thickness is fairly close, you could be in luck. If you REALLY wanted to only change one, you could have the new one machined to reduce its thickness to match the right hand disc.

lol yeah I can see where you're coming from I'm still gunshy even after oil changes - since I botched a remote filter install on the GTR and dumped 5L all over the garage floor in maybe 5 seconds. Er, oops...! God bless rental properties

Deren I hope you're hosting a party on engine start day. There are people that need to see this car in person!

Sorry about going OT: Duncan why do these guys race Daewoos & Hyundais? Do they simply want to race and this is the cheapest four wheels and an engine?

Ah! Thanks Deren, that makes a lot of sense now. I didn't realise how much labour was involved. No race ports for Hyundais then. btw, on the drive home from work yesterday I followed an Excel with a full cage and race numbers on the windshield!? It looked like a stock silver Hyundai POS, but had this massive cage inside. Weird. I had to take a photo just to make sure I wasn't seeing things

If there's no down side, I wonder why they didn't do it from factory? Same same for why Mazda didn't port 13Bs, etc. Anyway, like I said, just wonderin'.

What's the down side to a race port? Noise? Idle?

Good to hear mate. Does Global EFI have a website/mail order service? I need one for my subie.

Be careful when you're removing it. If you use too much force you can bust the ball & socket joint at the back of the indicator. As skybarge said, just pull firmly towards the front of the car.

I tried the sanding back method and didn't rate it. If you're going to put a decent (ie. long lasting) coat of paint on the caliper, it'll take you all week to sand back and probably still look like crap. I recommend painting the entire caliper in the logo colour, then mask the logo (it's not that hard! ), and then go with your final colour, unmask, then gloss top coat. The result will be longer lasting and look professional. Take your time masking too. You'll be grateful for the extra minute you spent to get the masking done just right, when you're looking at the calipers six months later.

Sorry Rolls, I should have put a or something there. Yeah, in 10yrs on cars I've never seen a tangible performance increase from an oil change. Even back-to-back on a dyno - clean oil is preventative maintenance, not a performance gainer.

Should improve your 60ft time a little

Amongst many other things, a rough idle could be the AFM itself, or an inbound air leak past the AFM. This particular problem (not saying this is yours though) is unmetered air passes into the system and the ECU is out of whack because [AFM recorded air flow] \= [actual air flow] Fuel consumption is prob O2 sensor. From memory, if the AFM is stuffed, the car will have trouble even idling properly, let alone causing high fuel consumption. My experience is with RB26 though, so when one of my AFMs died the car could keep running. FWIW.