TXSquirrel

Yeah and since this isn't my first backfire you think I would have learned that by now LOL.

Thank you all for the feedback. I bought the top molding first then read the manual, that's when I went oops. I thought I was being clever and saved money to find a website selling only the top molding, but looks I still need the whole molding kit so I wasted more money instead. Just that my two side moldings are still in really good shape, so I'm spending extra money solely for the damn clips.

Yes I read that already, a few times actually, but it's just not that clear. I mean, have you actually read it or you just copy and paste? "disengage fastener from side molding by sliding lower two side molding clips" - I don't get it. Does that mean pushing the clips downward until they slide out from the bottom corner of windscreen? Also, there are 4 clips on each side according to the graph, so leave the upper two in place? "remove side molding from fastener by pulling out lower end of molding" - Also don't get it. After the bottom 2 clips are out, I start pulling the side molding down? The top of side molding are 90 degree, won't that bend the molding by pulling down?

Hi folks, I hope to get some tips on removing front windscreen molding. The top horizontal molding on my R32 has faded, so I order a new one. Then I found out afterward the side vertical moldings need to come off before the top one can be removed. Are there tricks or tips to remove the side moldings and reuse them again? Thanks in advance.

Did you check the harness under dash? They would burn out occasionally.

If you are trying to lift the front, the best jack point is the cross member between oil pan and gearbox. It's even marked with an X for you. I would also use a wood block as well.

Under 4000 rpm I know the difference is definitely not just in my head, MTL shifts way better than MT-90 especially before fluid is fully warmed up and that's why I prefer it. Between 4000 and 7000 rpm the difference is interesting, it's hard to describe but kind of feels like stirring different viscosity drinks in a glass with a metal spoon. The MTL feels like stirring a more watery drink in a glass so I can move the shifter quicker, but the moment it goes into gear there is a slightly crispier but harsher notch, like clinking the glass with a metal spoon in coffee instead of smoothie, a feeling I'm still getting used to. With MT-90 the 2nd gear would grind before completely warmed up, and I switched about 6 months ago because a shop suggested MTL could help and the job was inexpensive. Will see how it holds up in the next few years. I believe you are right about the different fluids containing different additives and not just difference in viscosity. Your experience with the Castrol fluids could be comparable to my experience with Redline fluids, and I'm interested to know if others would like to try it, however sounds like Redline isn't as readily available there.

Nice color, I like it! Not sure if you plan to run stock intercooler, but the story of stock intercooler good for 600hp is BS. I would recommend adding an aftermarket intercooler. There is no clutch mentioned in your list, so I would also suggest a new ATS carbon twin plate. If your goal is a robust 400hp, I think the -5s are not the right choice. They hit the 400hp mark at later RPM and are meant for more.

Maybe someone else can try MTL out and report back.

I rarely shift at above 7000 rpm, but so far I feel MTL shifts slightly quicker than MT-90. That could all just be in my head though as knowing beforehand MTL is rated at 75W-80 and MT-90 is rated at 75W-90.

I had MT-90 before but running MTL now. I prefer MTL, seems to suit better with the warmer and more humid climate I am located.

Just get Enkei RPF1 17x9 +22. Cheap, light, fair quality, decent look.

ATS also offers carbon twin plate at a lower price, at 500rwhp you don't have to get their triple plate.

You were recommending jacking up from the sills, which really is no better from the rails for a R32 because of the gap left by Nissan from factory. R33/R34 sills would be damaged if one does something stupid, normal usage would be fine, which is not the case for R32. Even normal usage with scissor jack as you recommended would still crush it. Every R32 sills are in worse shape than the rails, so unless the gap is rectified, don't touch either sills or rails and just jack from the center subframe, preferably with a block of wood as well.

I believe the front piece of rail is still in production, but you may want to double check with the vendor. Right side: 75110-05U30 Left side: 75111-05U30 And if anyone wonders why every R32 front sills are crushed and not R33/R34, Garage Yoshida has a good example to show: http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/1926