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TXSquirrel

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About TXSquirrel

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas

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  • Car(s)
    1990 GTR
  • Real Name
    David

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  1. Under 4000 rpm I know the difference is definitely not just in my head, MTL shifts way better than MT-90 especially before fluid is fully warmed up and that's why I prefer it. Between 4000 and 7000 rpm the difference is interesting, it's hard to describe but kind of feels like stirring different viscosity drinks in a glass with a metal spoon. The MTL feels like stirring a more watery drink in a glass so I can move the shifter quicker, but the moment it goes into gear there is a slightly crispier but harsher notch, like clinking the glass with a metal spoon in coffee instead of smoothie, a feeling I'm still getting used to. With MT-90 the 2nd gear would grind before completely warmed up, and I switched about 6 months ago because a shop suggested MTL could help and the job was inexpensive. Will see how it holds up in the next few years. I believe you are right about the different fluids containing different additives and not just difference in viscosity. Your experience with the Castrol fluids could be comparable to my experience with Redline fluids, and I'm interested to know if others would like to try it, however sounds like Redline isn't as readily available there.
  2. Nice color, I like it! Not sure if you plan to run stock intercooler, but the story of stock intercooler good for 600hp is BS. I would recommend adding an aftermarket intercooler. There is no clutch mentioned in your list, so I would also suggest a new ATS carbon twin plate. If your goal is a robust 400hp, I think the -5s are not the right choice. They hit the 400hp mark at later RPM and are meant for more.
  3. Maybe someone else can try MTL out and report back.
  4. I rarely shift at above 7000 rpm, but so far I feel MTL shifts slightly quicker than MT-90. That could all just be in my head though as knowing beforehand MTL is rated at 75W-80 and MT-90 is rated at 75W-90.
  5. I had MT-90 before but running MTL now. I prefer MTL, seems to suit better with the warmer and more humid climate I am located.
  6. Just get Enkei RPF1 17x9 +22. Cheap, light, fair quality, decent look.
  7. ATS also offers carbon twin plate at a lower price, at 500rwhp you don't have to get their triple plate.
  8. You were recommending jacking up from the sills, which really is no better from the rails for a R32 because of the gap left by Nissan from factory. R33/R34 sills would be damaged if one does something stupid, normal usage would be fine, which is not the case for R32. Even normal usage with scissor jack as you recommended would still crush it. Every R32 sills are in worse shape than the rails, so unless the gap is rectified, don't touch either sills or rails and just jack from the center subframe, preferably with a block of wood as well.
  9. I believe the front piece of rail is still in production, but you may want to double check with the vendor. Right side: 75110-05U30 Left side: 75111-05U30 And if anyone wonders why every R32 front sills are crushed and not R33/R34, Garage Yoshida has a good example to show: http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/1926
  10. Yeah digital G sensor should be maintenance free. Previous owner just saved you $400. Your issue is mechanical then. I was thinking, however, if the transfer case was slipping, why would it buck the car? Because the rear wheels are still pushing, just the power not transmitted to the front. So I would say do a quick check on the front diff. also, just make sure there is enough fluid and also the right fluid.
  11. Your issue may also lie in the sensory side and not mechanical side. What's the condition of your G-sensor? Can you find another one nearby to test?
  12. Wow you ran 6 with 1.1? I think that's a bit much even at 15psi... I'm surprised you're not getting knocks... I would have suggested at least 7 if you are running 1.1, but preferably 0.9.
  13. I am having a weird sound coming from the back post shutdown as well. It sounds a little different from both the fuel pump and attesa pump, and it could be described as fog horn. I notice it usually happens after I drive extensively. But a couple weeks ago when the weather got pass 100°F and I was out in the front yard, I heard the sound just came on for no reason, even though car has been sitting in the garage for over a week. Then I heard it again last week, also when weather was very hot and car hasn't been moved for some time. I am still trying to figure out what it is, but it's impossible to replicate as it just comes on randomly when (I presume) weather is hot. My friend thinks it's because the fuel tank evap line is clogged and the noise is from fuel pump, but I'm not sure how likely that is with car just sitting there untouched.
  14. Is it a mechanical whirring sound you are hearing post shutdown? Like some kind of pump running?
  15. Greddy Profec is a duty cycle based EBC and not pressure based. Maybe you can look into that instead.
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