iamme

Bit the bullet, spent the money and bought a hicas eliminator kit. Heading on some big travels in a few weeks so trying not to spend money on anything but its satisfying to know Ill have this fixed and never have to worry about it again. Didn't have a ball joint pressing tool so went the way of taking off the hub. Handbrake assembly coming apart here. Tried a bench vice but wouldn't get the ball joint to budge, knocked on the door of an old bloke who seemed to be a mechanic going by the amount of cars on his lawn, and yep, had a press, was willing to help after the contract of beer was made. Ball joint was pressed out, back to mine and got the eliminator kit out of the box. Wasn't keen on the factory purple paint so sprayed it a flat black. Bought one of the cheaper kits, as opposed to the drift works kit, the rubber bushing was one piece, so sawed it in two, in the vice and pressed it in. 18 year old Japanese spider cruising around the world checking shit out 18 year old Japanese spider cruising around the world checking shit out

For the life of me I couldn't get the nut loose. Will have to make a trip to the mechanics

Just measured with a set of vernier calipers and it seems to be 15mm. Thread pitch seems real small

Hey, My R34 GTT has a lock bar fitted, however the thread on the tie rod, going into the lock bar is completely stripped and therefore the lock bar is ineffective. At the moment Im thinking I either try rethread it with I assume a m14, or m15 die, or repalace the inner tie rod all together. At the moment I'm stuck with getting the inner tie rod to come loose. Its got some flat spots to use for adjusting so thats where Im starting, but for the life I me it wont come loose. Is this the right procedure, or is it easier to replace both the tie rod and tie rod end. Although Ive heard even the end can be just as tricky. Keeeeen for any advice Cheers

Or sell and put towards new paint

So opened it up and it looks like a 2way. Just not sure which one. Guess that would explain the clunk at low speeds around corners lol. As a daily and no engine mods I'm happy with viscous. Anyone seen a similar two way?

Headed up to bunnings and talked to a guy that used to work in the auto industry . Bunnings don't sell m10 bolts with 14mm heads. Not that he was aware of anyway. Got some off a mate in the end. New diff is in and it drives so much better. No clunk at all. It was really intense before. Will open it up when I get a chance and see what's going on.

Gave in. Got out the angle grinder and murdered those little buttholes. Should have tried the breaker bar spanner. Exactly what I needed. Ah well. Anyway. Now in search for two more bolts. Would the idea be to hit up a nuts and bolts place and match up the ones I still have?

Yeah I'll try that. Maybe jack it up higher this time so it has good clearance once on the ground

So got a new diff, filled and ready to go in. Getting the old one out is proving to be insanely difficult. I'm stuck on the 4 prop shaft bolts connecting up to the diff. I've managed to get two off. Took about 1.5hrs on each. Literally tried everything. All soaked with WD for a good hour. Jack to apply force to a ring spanner was my best attempt but that didn't seem to get them to budge. The two that did come loose were done with a ring spanner and mallet. Tried for the third but gave up. Probably the best bet now would be a cheap butane blow torch ? Any ideas ?

Managed to contact the owner before myself. He said it went through a few people before him but he didn't or hadn't heard of the diff being welded. From what Ive researched it could be a worn pinion gear. So anyway, found what seems to be a good one for cheap, housing and all. Will drop the old own out and open it up for reference sake.

the seller does specify its needs to be installed by a professional, i was just supposing that was there way of saying, 'yes, there might be problems and thats why a pro can fix them for you if theyre are'. Just was wanting to see if anyone has already put one of these bars on and if so any potential areas that popped out that might not be able to be fixed at home.

Yeah seems like it would be popping out and not flush considering a genuine can go for 700ish.

Just wondering if anyone has bought one of these. Seem good for the price, obviously needs paint etc, but just wondering on the fitment?

Yeah heaps