Custard

Hi all. I'm currently wiring up a Haltech E6X to my 1988 R31 TI. The last two wires I need to connect are the CAS trigger and home wires. I cannot for the life of me find anywhere stating which one is which. You can see pin 17 and pin 8 are the two that I need to distinguish. Thanks in advance

Interested in steering wheel also.

Hi all, chasing either an R33 S1, R34, or S15 standard steering wheel. Must be in good condition and able to post to TAS. Thanks

Bee*R limiter type B wanted After a genuine Bee*R for my 33 GTST, preferably used and a bit cheap

Mamba adjustable wastegate actuator - RB20 and RB25 Hi all, selling my Mamba adjustable wastegate actuator. Bought this a month or so ago to diagnose a boost spike issue but it didn't help. Barely used, ran for a couple days and then took back off. Same as this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAMBA-Adjustable-Piston-Turbo-Wastegate-Actuator-For-Nissan-RB25DET-R33-GTST-GT-/401191218104?hash=item5d68dc2bb8:g:3UMAAOSw8gVX30UN Chasing $100.

Yeah, actuator is easy to change, just gotta pop the turbo heat shield off. I will test both the standard actuator and the adjustable to see if it makes a difference. Interesting to hear, given that I reckon it's been like this for the whole time. Hasn't had any issues really, it's even seen a couple track days. I've paid for a new turbo already, might see if anyone wants the chipped one for a few bucks haha

Well my initial thought was that my turbo may have been like that the whole time, and considering I haven't found any trace of turbo debris I'm kinda inclined to believe that is the case, and that somehow it's just worked this whole time anyway.

Okay, I have a bit of a theory. When I did my boost leak test I had also installed the softest spring in my adjustable actuator, supposed to be a 5 PSI spring. I had noticed that it was substantially easier to manually pull the rod out of the actuator against the spring than it was on the standard 5 PSI actuator. I didn't think anything of it at the time, but could it maybe be possible that being so soft the pressure from inside the turbo actually just pushed the wastegate open itself? I put the adjustable actuator back on the turbo and tried pushing the wastegate open from the inside and it was quite easy - a lot harder with the standard actuator. I really should have put the standard actuator in before ripping my turbo out...

Now this is what I would have thought, but nobody has said anything like this until now so I figured the chipped fins must have prevented it from making boost. But yes, the wastegate flap was definitely closed, and I had applied a few mm of preload to the arm. I had the actuator setup previously with a harder spring and no issues with it.

Yeah, that's the leading theory. I mostly just wanted to know if it was even possible for the wheel to have been damaged the whole time, as I did not think what I did to boost leak test it could have caused it to happen. Won't be doing it like that again, haha. Even though virtually every guide I found online said to do it like that...

Yep, this is true. Would if I could. Being poor is expensive. Standard turbo should last me at least until I can save up for a better setup though, my last one was fine until I leak tested it haha. I don't think so, I checked over everything before I pulled it all out. I only put 5 PSI into the system anyway which is less than I ran daily.

My currently kit is a return flow and the cooling pro cooler to replace mine is $330. I can't buy any different one because my piping wouldn't work. There's nothing half arsed about that particular setup, but when I upgrade I will be going with a bigger and better turbo, doing everything properly and doing it all at once. I'm not going to blow 900+ dollars (that I can't bloody afford in the first place) on an upgrade that isn't what I want. If you think I'm stubborn because of that I don't know what to say to you. The turbo I had didn't just randomly blow up, something happened when I boost tested it. I have no reason to think the next standard turbo will just blow up, and since I can't afford to do anything else, I will be replacing it with a standard turbo. Yep, it's a riskier decision than getting a brand new high flow, but being poor means I have no choice. I opened the thread to get some opinions on what could have caused the broken turbo in the first place, not for people to tell me I'm stubborn because I'm not upgrading my car at their whim.

Yeah, still a lot of money to half-arse it. If I upgrade I'm going to do it properly. Don't doubt that it's sound advice but again, not interested in upgrade advice, I can't bloody afford it, so please stop. I found a small leak in my FMIC from some recent wallaby damage that my car incurred, so I will most likely be replacing it. Unfortunately for me it is not a $150 part, it's a $330 part. More f**king money down the drain.

As far as I am aware it is not safe to be running a highflow turbo without supporting mods and a tune. which is where it gets expensive.

Mmm yes, I will be doing that in the future. Sorry but I'm not here for upgrade advice, I know what my options are and I can't afford to do anything else. I will be spending under $200 on a replacement turbo and getting my (only) car back on the road ASAP. Not interested in people casually telling me to drop thousands on my car.