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About Blakeo

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  1. Honestly after trying most dealerships local, I'd highly recommend dealing with Kudos Motorsport. -Blake.
  2. Just for reference, my old mans ls3 with 13.5:1 comp ratio was 205-210 across all 8. Comp tester must be dodgy.
  3. Welding won't fix it, it will be due to pinion bearing wear and the pinion/ring gear mesh is slightly off causing it whine. Needs rebuild to fix, and depending on how long its been driven like this the pinion/ring gear might need to be relapped. -Blake.
  4. I installed a new mlsr permaseal headgasket on my Rb25. Have had no issues with it except a oil weep near the back left of the block. Its very minor, but annoying as has no oil leaks anywhere else. I need to do timing belt soon and was thinking while belt is off I should replace with factory headgasket and reuse the arp head bolts. Car makes 400rwhp and about 20psi, tuner said it should be okay but not too confident. I don't know what to do.
  5. Hey did you get a chance to take a photo? Cheers.
  6. Can you show me how you've setup your battery clamp?
  7. Yes I do see the logic in doing this, it's just that I found my old boost controller was hooked up to the ignition and it was less work to wire it up like this. I've stepped it up to 14 awg which is rated to 20amps on the package no issue yet.
  8. I have a D34 Optima laying down in my R33 atm. It works great, but it is heavy. The reason I bought it was I planned to install thermos and a subwoofer. I still plan on installing these at some stage, however I've come across Odyssey batteries which can fit in the stock hold down and are rated at 330 amps which should be more than enough. Anyone using the Odyssey Battery with a high draw electrical system? Would be a weight saving of 15kg.
  9. Hi Dose, I started setting up the wiring today bought one of those fuse bus. I took power from the ignition as recommended, I used multi-meter to find the switchable power. Everything seemed to be fine, sensor came on and warmed up started to give ecu reading of lambda. Went for a 5 minute drive to datalog, and smoke started to come out of the ignition turned car off straight away. I used 16 AWG TXL wire which should handle 8amps of power. I'm thinking maybe wire wasn't good enough and I should run 14 AWG but I'm not confident that's the cause. Fuse didn't blow either and it was a 5amp fuse.
  10. Sounds a bit sketchy, is there no way to add a new relay to fusebox and run the can lambda off that? Has anyone done that before?
  11. I had a very similar issue with mine and it was the Afm that caused the issue. As far as the afm I wouldn't be confident a 20e afm would be the same as a turbo one.
  12. Good point, I wouldn't of thought about that. This wiring stuff is confusing, if I buy a 15 amp fused relay and run decent gauge wiring that should be ok? Is putting a new relay in the right way to do it, and would running the power wire along the existing loom be ok? Thank you mate.
  13. Thanks gts, in the fuse box on my vehicle they have relays in the engine bay. I have found a narva relay which is similar would need slight modification to fit. So I'd need to fit the relay into the fusebox, would I piggy back the power off another relay as they all seem to have a separate wire for 12v positive. And then after powering the relay use a 10 amp fuse inline as the wideband will use 8.1amp max. Should I use the ignition as signal for the relay to turn on?
  14. I need to wire in a CAN Lambda sensor for my ecu, have been told it needs to be a noise free supply up to 8.1amps for the sensor to heat up and 1.5amp maintained current. Where would be the best place to tap power off for this in the engine bay, acknowledging the fact my battery is in the boot. Thank you.
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