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Blakeo

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  1. I had the same issue with mine. I found the line was blocked somehow on mine. I used compressed air and blew out the sludge.
  2. Hi guys, I did a manual conversion on my 2005 v35 skyline sedan. I am finding it really hard to find the series 2 manual shifter trim for where the shifter goes and the centre console. Any chance someone here knows where to get them from, or I can buy from? I have tried Yahoo Japan with no luck
  3. Hi guys, lately my V35 drift car has been hard to get into first/reverse when idling at a stop sometimes. I have tried adjusting the clutch pedal, giving it the maximum preload one way so it releases the clutch the most (just for testing) which doesn't help. I've since adjusted it back to its correct positioning so there is no preload on the pressure plate etc. Also sometimes when letting out the clutch, I get a bit of vibration thru the pedal. I'm guessing the flywheel is a bit warped due to all the heat cycles from drifting it. I have bled the clutch system properly as well. Transmission fluid etc is all new Any suggestions to help it, except for removing the flywheel and getting it reground? Regards, Blake.
  4. You need to buy a $15 VAG cable and Nissan Datascan to find out what's wrong with it.
  5. Very nice, is going soft hose all the way to the rail advisable though? How come you went twin 6an near the rail? Thank you for going into detail with the pics and all.
  6. Hi guys, I am planning on upgrading the fuel system on my R33 skyline. Ideally I need enough fuel to handle 600rwhp on E85, but want to build it to handle at least 700hp for a bit of a safety margin. I am planning on pulling the fuel tank out since the sock fell in the tank upon removing the fuel pump. Is there any modifications I should do to the tank whilst it is out of the car, I'm already planning on putting on all new hoses (also what grade hose is best, will need to support e85). For the tank, I am planning on buying a FPG fuel hat. Then go 200 series fuel hose to the front of the car. Is it best to run the fuel hose all the way up, or run bigger fuel lines like how the factory has the setup? Any recommendations from others who have upgraded their fuel system, like the cleanest way to setup the fuel relay, how to route the hoses, what to hold the hoses underneath the car (thinking of using Chriso's billet fuel line holders). Also, last thing does anyone know where to buy the "baffle" bit which goes where you fill the tank up and its function is to stop you putting diesel in the car (prevents the wider fuel nooze going into the filler) since at some point in my cars life its been removed. Thank you
  7. Sorry, I meant budget wise. There are good options from PPG, but your looking at $10k+ And generally dogbox's like in this case don't last a long time on the street.
  8. Thanks Kink for taking the time to reply properly, I understand what you mean. My main reason is just excessive blowby causing dipstick to blow out under boost even with a well ventilated breather setup. I'm not sure if new rings/bearings will fix it due to the age of the motor and the bore possibly being out of round. Fair enough, amazing how in all of these years there isn't a good solution for a H-Pattern gearbox onto a RB. The T56/CD009 conversions I've seen are bunky, generally the t56 ones I've seen aren't aligned the best and seem to have a whole host of issues. Come on Dose, why you have to do this haha. I'd love to JZ/Barra swap it but there's easy 10-15k in the swap which could be better used in upgrading the RB. My factory motor has been making just over 400rwhp for over 3 years now, as you mentioned they are reliable at this power level. I've seen JZs hold 600rwhp on the stock bottom end for years, its just RBs have so many inherent design problems and a weak block it puts me off taking the car to the next level especially due to the cost of a built motor and the hot side setup.
  9. I want to build my RB25, what puts me off is they just don't seem to last a long time at a powerlevel of 550-600hp. Seems as soon as you mess with the factory engine, RBs just don't last. Two of my mates who had forged RBs, one was in a drift car which spun bearings more times than he would like to admit and since he's gone to a Ford Barra engine. My other mate had the bore crack. Is it even worth putting 10-15K into an engine you can't be sure will stand up to the power level because there is so much uncertainty in the quality of parts, engine builder and tuner. As well as the various other issues the car can have. Has anyone here had a rb put out at least 600rwhp and last for a long time 5 years/50,000km? Is there anyway to build the 5 speed manual on a budget to handle the 550rwhp, without having to do a low quality conversion kit to a T56/CD009?
  10. Going to pull the box off tomorrow, not even clutch experts know what the deal is.
  11. Hi guys, today I installed a Exedy 5 Puk clutch (car is going to be used for drifting). Everything went well on the installation side no issues. With the clutch pedal all the way up, it has about ~5mm of dead play (within Nissan spec 3-5mm). The clutch seems to use the whole pedal to disengage, but isn't fully disengaged until about 10mm from the clutch pedal hitting its stop. It also fully engages about 3/4 of the stroke of the clutch pedal, about 15mm from the top of the pedal. Is that correct, or does it require adjustment. So in summary: Clutch pedal disengages fully about 10mm from bottoming out. Clutch pedal fully engages about 15mm from its maximum "up travel". Is this correct, I left the pedal adjustment as it is from factory I have not played with anything. Clutch was bled about 10,000km ago, and with the old oem clutch was good just its engagement/disengagement points were different. Thank you.
  12. Shh don't tell him that haha. For real that fibreglass repair was so good, its almost like a new one
  13. You can't bash limiter in an rb, its not ideal but it happens in a drift car. The 25 in my 33 is tired, I don't want to spend 15-$20k building it just to suffer oiling issues drifting. Might be better to LS swap it idk.
  14. Agreed, in street form they don't have an issue. But really a GTR (Grand Turismo Racing) as coined by Nissan, they never expected people to race them? A 2JZ is a street engine, but the oil pump drive on those is nearly bulletproof. Don't get me wrong, I like RBs but theres not really a solution for the oil pump issues that doesn't cost over $12-15K and not reliable long term (i.e can't use dry sump on the street long term, as they require constant inspection and maintenance). Ls1 = gods engine Because they had to work to a budget, I understand that. The japs are generally really good at making engines, everything else about the RB is great, but the thing that really mattered was butchered 30 years later and the aftermarket still hasn't really fixed it though, I'm not keen on spending $20k on the engine just for it to have oiling issues. Nitto sine drive looks promising and I'll probably end up buying it for my build.
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