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About Blakeo

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  1. Can you show me how you've setup your battery clamp?
  2. Yes I do see the logic in doing this, it's just that I found my old boost controller was hooked up to the ignition and it was less work to wire it up like this. I've stepped it up to 14 awg which is rated to 20amps on the package no issue yet.
  3. I have a D34 Optima laying down in my R33 atm. It works great, but it is heavy. The reason I bought it was I planned to install thermos and a subwoofer. I still plan on installing these at some stage, however I've come across Odyssey batteries which can fit in the stock hold down and are rated at 330 amps which should be more than enough. Anyone using the Odyssey Battery with a high draw electrical system? Would be a weight saving of 15kg.
  4. Hi Dose, I started setting up the wiring today bought one of those fuse bus. I took power from the ignition as recommended, I used multi-meter to find the switchable power. Everything seemed to be fine, sensor came on and warmed up started to give ecu reading of lambda. Went for a 5 minute drive to datalog, and smoke started to come out of the ignition turned car off straight away. I used 16 AWG TXL wire which should handle 8amps of power. I'm thinking maybe wire wasn't good enough and I should run 14 AWG but I'm not confident that's the cause. Fuse didn't blow either and it was a 5amp fuse.
  5. Sounds a bit sketchy, is there no way to add a new relay to fusebox and run the can lambda off that? Has anyone done that before?
  6. I had a very similar issue with mine and it was the Afm that caused the issue. As far as the afm I wouldn't be confident a 20e afm would be the same as a turbo one.
  7. Good point, I wouldn't of thought about that. This wiring stuff is confusing, if I buy a 15 amp fused relay and run decent gauge wiring that should be ok? Is putting a new relay in the right way to do it, and would running the power wire along the existing loom be ok? Thank you mate.
  8. Thanks gts, in the fuse box on my vehicle they have relays in the engine bay. I have found a narva relay which is similar would need slight modification to fit. So I'd need to fit the relay into the fusebox, would I piggy back the power off another relay as they all seem to have a separate wire for 12v positive. And then after powering the relay use a 10 amp fuse inline as the wideband will use 8.1amp max. Should I use the ignition as signal for the relay to turn on?
  9. I need to wire in a CAN Lambda sensor for my ecu, have been told it needs to be a noise free supply up to 8.1amps for the sensor to heat up and 1.5amp maintained current. Where would be the best place to tap power off for this in the engine bay, acknowledging the fact my battery is in the boot. Thank you.
  10. Alright guys, if anyone else has this issue in the future. I bought some CRC Gasket Stripper. Sprayed it down the sides of the spark plug tube let it soak for a minute or two and I could pull the boot straight out.
  11. This sounds extremely dumb, but it's true and I'm not sure what to do about it. My 2005 v35 skyline was misfiring, found out to be oil in the spark plug holes getting into ignition coils. I didn't have the $800 for the genuine valve covers at the time and I read a temporary solution was to use rtv and seal the coilpacks in the spark plug tubes. I don't know if that was a troll but it worked for about 3 months, now it's back misfiring and the one coil I could get out had oil in it. The others I've tried to pull out but the boot is stuck inside the spark plug tube because of the silicon 😕 Has anyone ran into this before and any suggestions how I can get it out without damaging the coil boot?
  12. The head was skimmed and crack tested. The block I used a knife sharpening stone to get a good surface finish, and then tested with feeler gauges and a straight edge. Couldn't get 0.02mm gauge under any point. Permaseal MLSR was used with Holomar, I thought the block was machined but going over receipts I can see I didn't do it 100% properly and that annoys me. To do it properly I'll have to pull the motor out and completely disassemble the block to have it decked won't I?
  13. I'm thinking out loud, don't have many mechanically inclined people around me to discuss with. It has done about 20,000km @ 450rwhp on a PowerFC. Car has a total of 97,000km and has no previous history of being rebuilt. Compression is between 154-160 psi across all 6. Hasn't got any rod knock, or any other reason for concern just thought it would be good preventative maintenance. The only issue with the metal headgasket in it now is it has a slight weep from the turbo side rear. Its fairly minor. Would it be best to put a factory headgasket back in and reuse the arp headstuds? The old factory headgasket failed at 400rwhp, but could that be due to the factory head bolts stretching and with the arps I may not have the same issue?
  14. Timing belt replacement is coming up on my 33. I can't decide if I should get the motor rebuilt or not. I'm ordering $1400 of parts to do the timing belt replacement (needs new harmonic balancer, crank belt drive, thermostat, clutch fan etc etc). The only reason I am thinking of rebuilding is because the engine has a slight oil weep between the head and block. Ideally I will replace it with an oem headgasket and reuse the arp head bolts. Car only makes 450rwhp and shouldn't need the mls one. Is it worth spending the extra and pulling the motor out now to refresh it with new rings, bearings and do a few oil control mods?
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