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Blakeo

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About Blakeo

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  1. Ok, I dare say that's not the issue then my bad. I'd say OP is extremely lucky if it hasn't done any damage. Also Ben do you still have a RB or have you gone to the dark side?
  2. Hi Paul, Thanks for your help, last weekend I went to a drift day. Turned out to almost be a bust up, tried the traction control, pulled the ABS fuse. Car was still doing it. Turned out to be fuel surge, even with a full tank the fuel was still managing to get away from the fuel pickup. Lucky my mate giving me a hand, we removed the factory fuel pump, took the bottom plastic thing off underneath it that I guess is meant to act as a baffle and with some longer fuel hose, lowered the pump a further 120mm into the tank. The fuel sock would be about 10mm off the bottom of the tank (bad idea to make it touch). Went thru 8 tires after that fixed it.
  3. Hi Joey, I'd definitely be pulling the crank gear off and giving it a good clean (especially between the teeth so the belt can get good engagement) as well as cleaning up the general area down there. I can't comment in this case because I don't know what has been done to the car in regards to its history. But I do know my timing has been adjusted using Tomei adjustable timing gears, as my head has been decked a couple of times as well as the block has been decked. Unfortunately we couldn't accurately make up for the loss material with a bigger head gasket, so we had to degree the engine after the rebuild to ensure tdc was still correct as per the marks on the rear timing cover (they weren't), so the timing gears were used to take up this slack. Could be the same in this case, but I'd really be asking your tuner as they may have had a valid reason for doing this.
  4. Hi guys, this weekend I helped my friend install a Nismo Super Copper mix twin plate clutch into his GTR. We followed the Nissan Service Manual where applicable, and Nismo's instructions for installing the clutch - Along with using proper ARP hardware for the flywheel, and the bolts supplied by Nismo all torqued to spec. As well, we replaced the master and slave with new OEM Nissan parts, and vacuum bled the whole system. The clutch feels great and the dead play is within the factory spec as per the Nissan Factory Service manual. Clutch drives great on the street no issues. The issue he is having, when parked on a hill with the car off. If you put the car into first gear, let out the clutch and use the gearbox to essentially hold the car on the hill (so all the load is on the gearbox). You can't disengage the transmission out of first gear by pushing the clutch in (shifter locks into place), the car also won't roll backwards if you push the clutch in. I've told him not to do this as its essentially not great for the drivetrain and to use the handbrake, place car into neutral so the handbrake has the weight and then put the car into gear. Apparently it never use to do this with the single plate clutch in it. Is this a normal characteristic of a twin disc clutch or would this indicate the clutch isn't adjusted 100% correctly? Clutch doesn't seem to drag, in first gear with the clutch pushed in you can free rev it and car won't move.
  5. Mine doesn't have vdc button or the bosch sensor under the centre console? It only has traction control button.
  6. Definitely have a lot of respect for you going down this rabbit hole lol. Unfortunately these nissans arent like the older s/r chassis where you could put them together like legos and everything would just work. The main issues your going to have is Nissan Anti Theft, which is quite an anal system I had issues with it when I manual swapped my v35. The ecu requires that it matches up with the key, also if you have the keyless start it wants permission from the tcm as well. The tcm part is quite easy to over write, but as far as the ecu part goes that will be tricky (could I suggest a standalone). Going a standalone ecu does away with the complexities of the nissan anti theft, hopefully the vq25det has the same pim outs as a 350z so you can get a plug and play ecu. Are you going to stay auto or manual swap it?
  7. Has anyone drifted a stock v35? Mine throttles down everytime I go into a corner hard, even with traction control off. Doesn't have stability control, or at least a way to turn it off unless I'm mistaken? Kind regards, Blake.
  8. Hey you changed the quote I said burnouts fix everything. Clutch is mint now.
  9. One of the clutch discs must've been bound up or something idk. I got frustrated with it and dumped the clutch on limiter, sat there doing a burnout for a good minute. Clutch now disengages and tailshaft easily can be turned by hand with clutch disengaged. Tl;dr Burnouts fix everything.
  10. Hi GTS, I've looked into the issue more and can confirm throwout is 100 percent correct. Its strange, with the car on the hoist in 1st gear you can't spin the tailshaft easily with clutch pedal down (disengaged). But with the car on the ground, if I clutch in with it in gear someone can easily push the car until I let the clutch out. Does that sound okay?
  11. Hi guys, I have a v35 skyline I did a auto to manual swap in but now the clutch doesn't disengage. Clutch pedal has at least 120mm of throw (it bottom outs on the stop in the clutch bracket anyway so it's not how I've mounted the clutch pedal). I've bled the clutch at least 5 times there is no air in the lines. I've checked with competition clutches the twin disk i bought from them is definitely compatible. New clutch release bearing, clutch plates are around the right way and aligned properly. Slave cylinder moves by about 20-25mm but for some reason clutch still doesn't disengage. Any ideas at all?
  12. Hi guys, I'm not sure if I want to keep my R33 GTST, in the last 3 months I've put $7k into it (turbo blew) so went 6 boost, garrett 3076 gen 2 and a couple other things. I know with the skyline I am on borrowed time with the 20 year old engine, also it hasn't been dynoed yet waiting on the workshop to finish off some fab work. I like the car but it has a few rust issues, the sunroof has just started leaking and to get a replacement (nissan wont just sell seals) is $2.3k AUD, plus getting the rust fixed up in the boot etc will be another couple grand. My girlfriend has also been trying to convince me to buy a 370z, as they're a lot newer (one I'm looking to buy is a 2017 6spd manual). But I don't really want to sell the 33, but think it'd be cheaper to own the 370z especially since I need a more reliable daily. Would it make sense putting another $20k into the r33 (this is factoring in a engine rebuild that will likely be needed soon) or cutting my loses and selling it for a 370z now?
  13. Haha there's no way I'm spending $20k aud on a gearbox with only 600rwhp I still want to street drive it. Come on boys must be someone active here who is running a tr6060 or cd009 behind their rb, I want a clean install. The JWT kit looks so janky with the cut off bellhousing. At the moment the rod shop kit looks the best.
  14. Everytime its been clutch kick in 4th gear at about 150kph, solid center clutch and welded diff - its expected. As far as the t56 manual swap goes I've looked into it and the ratios are no where as ideal as the cd009, also the shift quality is junk have you ever tried to shift a tremec past 6500rpm? They don't.
  15. Hi guys, I have a R33 that I've swapped a Neo into and is making just shy of 600rwhp. I haven't had the usual 3rd gear issue, but I have snapped 2 input shafts. I'm considering going cd009, doing research I found the input shaft is the same size (spline from cd will fit into a rb clutch) but I believe where it benefits is it doesn't step down to a smaller size after the spline - this is where they always break. Having a 6th gear would be nice too. My question is, are the cd gearboxes really that much stronger than a skyline 5 speed? Also which adapter kit would I be best off looking at? I'm thinking about the JWT kit with a CBF mid mount shifter. I'd just need to fabricate my own cross member and have a shop modify the tailshaft.
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