Blakeo
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Posts posted by Blakeo
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On 4/30/2023 at 5:52 PM, Murray_Calavera said:
Just checking, is it the case that you have a Japanese wiring diagram? If so I might be able to help with translation.
I can't even get my hands on japanese wiring diagram at the moment.
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100% best suggestion is to take it to a mechanic, RB26s aren't cheap these days hoping for the best for you!
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Hi guys,
In my endeavour to repair my V35 sedan I acquired a V35 coupe series 2 chassis which I was expecting to be able to swap the loom into the sedan. Unfortunately some parts of the harness are different and there is no communication between the ECU/BCM. I understood it may not work, but at the time was my best option to get my car up and running. Being that it is a drift car I didn't mind if none of the door electrics and so forth didn't work in the back of the sedan.
Regards,
Blake.
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On 4/7/2023 at 8:09 PM, Murray_Calavera said:
It's really hard to judge if that quote is cheap, expensive or priced correctly. The cost of your harness will vary greatly depending on the quality of materials used, if it's completely sealed, the type of connectors used, etc.
It's like asking if a quote for an engine build is cheap and giving none of the details of the parts used, machining required etc.
Just a couple of example of what I'm talking about -
This 18 gauge TXL wire. About $1 a metre - https://www.rapidcables.com.au/txl-automotive-primary-copper-wire
This 18 gauge 44 spec Raycham wire. About $2 a metre - https://www.motorsportelectrics.com.au/shop-by-product/product/16-18-44-spec-raychem-wire-10-metre-minimum-each-colour
1 metre of 3/16" DR25 heat shrink. About $9 a metre - https://www.motorsportelectrics.com.au/shop-by-product/product/raychem-dr25-heatshrink
1 metre of 5mm Jaycar special heat shrink. About $2 a metre - https://www.jaycar.com.au/5-0mm-black-heatshrink-tubing/p/WH5533?pos=2&queryId=40024a8a7b0f399a645d96f628fe16cf&sort=relevance
The cost of these consumables add up very quickly.
What part of the harness was damaged/what needs repairing?
Essentially the whole dash loom needs replacement, also looks like now the ECU is bricked from possible 12v shorting thru the canbus
I have found one guy local who is a legend, that has parted a series 1 v35 sedan and hoping the loom from this can be used. At the moment I don't think it will work but going to give it a shot.
Cheers.
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Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone knew someones uncles cousins goldfish that may have a v35 skyline series 2 dash loom to suit sedan (i think coupe is likely the same too).
Long story but mine caught fire and need a replacement, Nissan would like over $5,000AUD so thought before reshelling I would ask.
Thank you.
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Least your wiring harness hasn't caught on fire yet like mine.
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7 hours ago, Duncan said:
Longer term, its probably an opportunity to chuck out all the modern electronics that a skiddy car doesn't want/need. Will probably require an ECU change to aftermarket as I bet the factory one will be grumpy if it doesn't hear from the BCM that everything is good.
Hey Duncan,
Thanks for replying. The cheapest quote I have been able to get to setup a body loom, as in just headlights, brakes, indicators and have the ecu be standalone is $8,500+gst and will need to buy an aftermarket ecu in the region of ~$2,000.
Does the above sound right? Just seems to be super expensive, I didn't want anything fancy just for the car to drive.
I don't think even an auto sparky would be able to fix the wiring harness, its an absolute mess. Hoping someone here knows if a series 1 harness will fit. I have found the IPDM wiring pin outs are slightly different, but I don't know if that's an issue if I buy the whole series 1 wiring harness with modules.. I guess then my series 2 ecu won't work.
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P.S anyone with access to the factory wiring diagrams would be majorly benefical please HMU.
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Hi guys I have a 2005 Nissan Skyline v35 with the 3.5L VQ35DE.
Not impressive I know, its my drift car and the wiring harness that goes behind the back of the dash caught fire.
I have since tried to repair the harness, but being a amateur I think the wiring is responsible for the dash having no power and not being able to start the engine....
I have sourced a series 1 wiring harness, what is the chances it will work with my series 2 at least good enough to make the drift event this saturday??
Otherwise does anyone know any work arounds, I am kind of desperate.
CHEERS.
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On 3/21/2023 at 4:31 PM, Duncan said:
To be clear, the kit I linked is fronts only.
Rears on a 33 gtst are fine up to about a billion kw, just do pads and discs
My friends girlfriends dad has a r33 gtst and his rear brakes didn't hold up with 989 million kws of power.
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Hi guys,
I was considering buying a RB25DET NEO AWD from a C34 Stageau. I was expecting to swap the sump and pickup and that was it, which is what the engine importer lead me to believe.
Being cautious I did some research and it appears the oil pickup inlet on the block is in a different spot to the RWD so even using RWD pickup it will be in the wrong spot in relation to the sump?
It also looks like the steel braces that go from the block to the gearbox are not able to be used when using the AWD block as the provisions for the brace to bolt to are not there.
Can anyone please confirm the above, its hard to get a definite as posts are contradicting - I am hope someone here has done the conversion and can tell me from experience.
Best regards,
Blake.
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just out of interest how much would something like this cost to get fixed?
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Hi guys, I have a 2005 V35 Coupe which is a track car only. I'm looking at getting some more power out of the vq35de is there any modifications which can be done to a budget to get a decent gain? The only modification I can find worth while is supercharging it to gain ~100whp.
I come from owning modified Honda's where engine swaps are generally pretty straight forward. Is there an engine swap to a vq35hr or even the vq37 which can be made to work with the v35 chassis (doesn't matter if some things don't work for example ac/tachometer etc) does it bolt up the same as a de?
I'm really asking for advice on which may be the most cost effective method to go.
Thank you.
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On 5/22/2022 at 7:32 PM, Murray_Calavera said:
Cheapest way? Spray.
A wet kit with 200hp jets could be up and running for less then $2000. Then its about $16 per pound when its time to refill your bottle.
Ok sorry I should rephase my question. But good answer haha.
How can I make 400whp that isn't using nitrous.
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I am running a cd009 behind my rb25det in a r33 gts25t.
Serial nine shifter lines up almost perfectly in the factory hole. As far as driverability goes the 4.11 stock rear diff ratio is a bit too short, maybe 3.7s would be more suitable (on order).
Other than that the cd box seems to chatter a lot more, maybe because i deleted the dual mass flywheel.
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Hi guys,
As the title states what is the most cost effective way to make 400whp from a vq35de in a V35 skyline chassis. I'm looking at all available options even an engine swap, price is a major factor.
Cheers.
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I had the same issue with mine. I found the line was blocked somehow on mine. I used compressed air and blew out the sludge.
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Hi guys, I did a manual conversion on my 2005 v35 skyline sedan. I am finding it really hard to find the series 2 manual shifter trim for where the shifter goes and the centre console.
Any chance someone here knows where to get them from, or I can buy from?
I have tried Yahoo Japan with no luck
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Hi guys, lately my V35 drift car has been hard to get into first/reverse when idling at a stop sometimes. I have tried adjusting the clutch pedal, giving it the maximum preload one way so it releases the clutch the most (just for testing) which doesn't help. I've since adjusted it back to its correct positioning so there is no preload on the pressure plate etc.
Also sometimes when letting out the clutch, I get a bit of vibration thru the pedal. I'm guessing the flywheel is a bit warped due to all the heat cycles from drifting it. I have bled the clutch system properly as well. Transmission fluid etc is all new
Any suggestions to help it, except for removing the flywheel and getting it reground?
Regards,
Blake.
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You need to buy a $15 VAG cable and Nissan Datascan to find out what's wrong with it.
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On 7/2/2021 at 4:18 PM, Adam91 said:
Just did all this on my r32 gtr. I washed the tank out with 98 and water and dried it out completely before starting but went for frenchys -8 baffled twin pump setup, twin walbro 525s (one on main power trigger and the other on a staged trigger from the ecu), Teflon lined -8 braided hose (I think it was 200 series), chrisos billet line holders, a speedflow long series -8 fuel filter with the red filter element (I think is 200 micron), used a y piece connector near the steering rack to go from single -8 to a twin -6 feed straight to the rail, a -6 return from rail to a turbo smart 1200 reg. From the reg I went -8 to another pair of y piece connectors to fit a flex sensor and a custom bracket which bolts in nicely were the hicas solenoid used to be in the engine bay and -8 return back to the tank. And used Bosch 1650 stainless injectors with half sized adaptors to suit. Should support close to 1000 engine hp
Very nice, is going soft hose all the way to the rail advisable though? How come you went twin 6an near the rail?
Thank you for going into detail with the pics and all.
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Hi guys, I am planning on upgrading the fuel system on my R33 skyline. Ideally I need enough fuel to handle 600rwhp on E85, but want to build it to handle at least 700hp for a bit of a safety margin.
I am planning on pulling the fuel tank out since the sock fell in the tank upon removing the fuel pump.
Is there any modifications I should do to the tank whilst it is out of the car, I'm already planning on putting on all new hoses (also what grade hose is best, will need to support e85).
For the tank, I am planning on buying a FPG fuel hat. Then go 200 series fuel hose to the front of the car. Is it best to run the fuel hose all the way up, or run bigger fuel lines like how the factory has the setup?
Any recommendations from others who have upgraded their fuel system, like the cleanest way to setup the fuel relay, how to route the hoses, what to hold the hoses underneath the car (thinking of using Chriso's billet fuel line holders).
Also, last thing does anyone know where to buy the "baffle" bit which goes where you fill the tank up and its function is to stop you putting diesel in the car (prevents the wider fuel nooze going into the filler) since at some point in my cars life its been removed.
Thank you
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2 hours ago, BK said:
Dunno what you're on about as there are upgraded H pattern gearsets for the stock case which will handle 600hp all day and have been for years.
The stock gearset will only take so much, so if you break it, you upgrade it. No decent driveline solution is ever cheap mate.
Sorry, I meant budget wise. There are good options from PPG, but your looking at $10k+ And generally dogbox's like in this case don't last a long time on the street.
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On 6/10/2021 at 7:12 AM, Kinkstaah said:
I say no, but something people don't really look into is what problems they are trying to fix by forging a motor.
What are these problems? Were people getting stock motors, and melting pistons, or having pistons fail, and rods bend? (in 2021?)
No?
If they aren't - What good is stronger pistons and rods? Forged motors aren't failing because the forged pieces fail, and they aren't really upgrades for failing bits anyway. There's a enormous thread on oil control to keep bearings alive, but people much prefer to forge a motor and put the money there instead of an accusump or a drysump for some reason. Can't really do much about blocks cracking when IT becomes the weakest link.
320kw is the happy spot for a RB that gets used outside of Instagram, and other parts of the car work well there, clutches, diffs, subframes, the ability to grip the road, turbo lag etc.
When your car is driving around daily, it is making about ~50rkw, so you can go and get 300,000km of driving at ~50kw from a 500kw motor if you never actually use the power, so km/chronological time since rebuild isn't even that accurate a factor if you don't consider how its being used.
Keep in mind that GT3 engine manufacturers rate their 500hp (at the crank) engines for Mclaren, Mercedes, Nissan, Audi, Lambo etc for about 12,000km of race use. And these are VERY expensive, VERY modern, VERY engineered motors with HIGH displacement made specifically for continued high power use. In a category where lasting longer than your competition has a massive competitive edge.
Instagram performance is not real world performance.Thanks Kink for taking the time to reply properly, I understand what you mean. My main reason is just excessive blowby causing dipstick to blow out under boost even with a well ventilated breather setup. I'm not sure if new rings/bearings will fix it due to the age of the motor and the bore possibly being out of round.
On 6/10/2021 at 8:14 AM, bcozican said:there is no guarantees at all to be honest if you cant afford to rebuild a built engine dont start the first time
whether you spend the $ is up to you - the question has come up a few times and yet to make a decision so Id say prob not but its all relative to people and for what purpose
reduce you power goals put a head gasket, head studs and cams in run e85 and 20 pst get 500 rwhp and it'll last for a good while if you treat it right
also if youre using just on the street big difference to on the track - total different loads put on the car
pushing 600 rwhp built or not always going to shorter the life of the engine by a long way - 500 different story
No - no gearbox solutions / upgrades that'll worth and are cheap but a stock box will handle it if you treat it 'gentler' especially snap changing between 3rd and 4th
Ive been racing Rb's for 13 years from stock rb20 to rb22 stroker, stock rb25 and built rb25 200 hp to 650 hp (most around the 500 - 550 mark) - I belt them they last... until they dont and you go again
Fair enough, amazing how in all of these years there isn't a good solution for a H-Pattern gearbox onto a RB. The T56/CD009 conversions I've seen are bunky, generally the t56 ones I've seen aren't aligned the best and seem to have a whole host of issues.
On 6/10/2021 at 8:26 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:LS swap OR JZ or Barra swap it
Come on Dose, why you have to do this haha. I'd love to JZ/Barra swap it but there's easy 10-15k in the swap which could be better used in upgrading the RB.
On 6/10/2021 at 11:28 AM, robbo_rb180 said:My motor (rb25) has been reliable for the 10years I've had it (Built by Red R Racing in early 2010 by previous owner)I replaced the head with a ported one and did new gasket & studs in 2015, 260-350kw, Lots of track days(drift, sprints & hill climbs), street driving and shenanigans. Run on 98 & e85, sensible timing map, maintained it correctly, Good quality & thought out oil breather setup and not bang them off limiter. Like anything have a sensible goal & maintain it correctly will last a long time.
People with efame only show the dyno runs & the one time they go to powerskids/roll race they don't tell you it failed after one day of being thrashed and banged off limiter.
if building a competitive race car/motor they are always pulled & inspected and parts replaced at service intervals as per an engine builders specs.
My factory motor has been making just over 400rwhp for over 3 years now, as you mentioned they are reliable at this power level.
I've seen JZs hold 600rwhp on the stock bottom end for years, its just RBs have so many inherent design problems and a weak block it puts me off taking the car to the next level especially due to the cost of a built motor and the hot side setup.
R33 Suspension torque specs
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Hi guys, I am chasing the rear subframe torque specs. Does anyone know where I can find these specs? I've searched on here and the closest I can get is the R32 GTR specs - is that what everyone uses?