Darkmeat

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Darkmeat last won the day on April 18

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About Darkmeat

  • Rank
    sleeper

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NSW generally
  • Interests
    Motoring. Fine Dining. Roadside Restaurants. Luncheon. Snacks. Desserts. Sauces. Pastries (esp. profiteroles). Anything made with or cooked in butter. Treats. Creme fraiche. Meringues. Did I say Treats? Treats.

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    NM35 Zenki
  • Real Name
    kebob

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  1. Darkmeat

    I'm mechanically f**ked and I don't make a noise like that.
  2. Darkmeat

    Errm. You lost me at "two blue plugs at the front of the engine ..." What two bue plugs? ta.
  3. Darkmeat

    Thanks for the info, West. Most appreciated. Hope I can find someone in the Central Coast - Newcastle area who knows these motors.
  4. Darkmeat

    Got a bit of an issue. 2 days ago I noticed my motor is making a noticeable 'clackkk' sound at 1500rpm, under no load. I only noticed it because I was standing beside the car, with the bonnet open, gently revving the motor. The 'clackkk' sound comes from the top of the motor (not from the front under the cam chain cover) and occurs whether I stab the throttle or increase revs gradually. It happens as it passes through 1500rpm. It's predictable and repeatable. I've never heard this sound while inside the car with the bonnet closed. So I don't know if it's happening while driving and/or with the engine under load. I thought, since it happens only at 1500rpm, that it might be the CVCT system. But that is Continuously Variable. So I'm thinking there should be no single point or RPM value at which the VCT 'switches' the timing. Car is an NM35 with VQ25DET, Hypergear turbo, all supporting cooling, exhaust, & fuel mods for 270kw atw, inc. lots of Scotty parts, and eManage Ultimate ECU. Can anyone help me with knowledge, experience, diagnostic advice?
  5. Darkmeat

    Thank you!! Nice werk! Great design! Much better than the other Stagea clothing designs out there. Gonna get me a hoody. Yesiree!
  6. Darkmeat

    I think the 350Z and the NM35 and the V35 have the same rear brake package. And the R34 GTT rears aren't a bolt-in fit. ERRATA: In the shopping list I posted above, I got the dimensions of the rear rotor wrong. Here it is corrected: Front: R34 GT-T 4 piston calipers 310 x 30mm RDA Slotted Dimpled rotors: Part no. RDA7597D Project Mu HS400 pads: Part no. F236 Rear: Stagea NM35 calipers (standard) 292 x 16mm RDA Slotted Dimpled rotors: Part no. RDA7657D Project Mu HS400 pads: Part no. R209 Had Bilstein shocks and Whiteline swaybars, on my f6 typhoon and they were awesome. Have BC BR-RS shocks/springs and Super Pro Roll Control swaybars & links on my NM35 and they're great too. A lot of fun.
  7. Darkmeat

    Stagea rotors are only 296 x 24mm - not a lot of mass for heat dissipation. For an easy, bolt-in upgrade, R34 GT-T front brakes are 310mm x 30mm rotors and 4 piston calipers. Here's a shopping list ... Front: R34 GT-T 4 piston calipers 310 x 30mm RDA Slotted Dimpled rotors: Part no. RDA 7597D Project Mu HS400 pads: Part no. F236 Rear: Stagea NM35 calipers (standard) 296 x 24mm RDA Slotted Dimpled rotors: Part no. 7657D Project Mu HS400 pads: Part no. R209 And HEL braided s/steel brake lines can replace the complicated stock system of hard lines, rubber lines and blocks, and give better pedal feel. Re. BC coilovers/shocks/springs. I'm happy with my BC BR-RS coilover (fronts) shock/spring (rears) package. And can set them from too hard to too soft, and everything in between. They were on the car when I bought it 2.5 years ago, and have been absolutely fine. I just did a seach for 'BC Coilovers' to see if they have a bad rep on this forum. After running through 200+ posts mentioning them, I can't see a pattern of complaints against them. I know some of the more experienced members on this forum run and recommend them. http://bcracing.com.au/nissan-stagea-awd-nm35-coilovers Hope this helps
  8. Darkmeat

    Not even close.
  9. Fnkced up with the mental concept of offset? So was I. Then, like a nail gun to the back of the head, inspiration struck! Offset is indicated by the use of the initials ET. ET is short for Einpresstiefe - a German word meaning 'Insertion Depth'. Let's use it in a sentence: In November 1941, the 4th Panzer Army's maximum Einpresstiefe was 30 km west of Moscow. Now, to visualise offset, it helps to imagine Russia as a giant wheel arch, and the German 4th Panzer Army as a wheel (no, not a tank track). At ET 0, the mounting face of the wheel hub is level with the half-way point between the inner and outer lips of the rim (say, near Minsk). The further IN to the arch the wheel goes, the GREATER the Insertion Depth i.e +30 (Mocbah!) The further OUT of the arch the wheel sits, the LESSER the Insertion Depth i.e -20 (Only as far as East Poland.) Adding a spacer moves the whole wheel further OUT, DECREASING the Insertion Depth (ET) ie. +35 to +25 Machining metal off the wheel hub mounting face moves the whole wheel further IN, INCREASING the Insertion Depth (ET) ie. -10 to -5 Next week, Darkmeat will explain the workings of the float valve, using Nelson's series of consecutive victories at Copenhagen Ushant Nile & Trafalgar to illustrate.
  10. Want to Buy. Looking for left rocker cover for Stagea NM35 VQ25DET. parts code 13264+A parts no 13264-AL611 Same part no. as for V35 Skyline (01-07), Y34 Cedric/Gloria, and F50 Cima.
  11. Darkmeat

    Just to finish this off, while fitting new plugs, Denso IKH24 (8 on the NGK Heat Range table,) we found the real problem is a left rear plug seal. Oil had seeped down the plug. The NM35DET rocker cover has the plug seals manufactured into it, dammit. With new plugs, it's temporarily running smooth, while I try to locate a left rocker cover (anyone got one?). For the VQ25DET, the rocker cover part numbers are: RIGHT SIDE ROCKER COVER maker nissan parts code 13264 parts no 13264-AQ801 parts name COVER ASSEMBLY,VALVE ROCKER Vehicle period model fig CEDRIC/GLORIA 1999/06-2004/10 Y34 111E CIMA 2001/01-2010/08 F50 111A STAGEA 2001/10-2007/07 M35 111B LEFT SIDE ROCKER COVER maker nissan parts code 13264+A parts no 13264-AL611 parts name COVER ASSEMBLY,VALVE ROCKER Vehicle period model fig CEDRIC/GLORIA 1999/06-2004/10 Y34 111D CIMA 2001/01-2010/08 F50 111A SKYLINE 2001/06-2007/06 V35 111B STAGEA 2001/10-2007/07 M35 111B http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=153&cartype=12&fig=111&page=8 Thanks for everyone's great help. At least I have the right plugs now!
  12. If they'll fit a GH-NM35 (VQ25DET AWD 2001-2004) Stagea, I'll buy them.
  13. Darkmeat

    Wow, thank you all! Sorry, I should have stated: 267kw @ 5,200 rpm @ 18psi on pump 98. I did check the older (2015) SAU Wagoneers spark plug thread. YangLUI posted a table listing NGK Japan's recommendations for the NM35 VQ25DET: best to normal: LFR6ARX-11P -> LFR6AIX-11P -> LFR6AIX-11 -> PLFR6A-11. (All 1.1mm gap.) So mine are recommended for stock engines, and gapped at 1.1mm. But further in the thread, Scotty wrote: "Stock engine, 6 heat range is fine, so is 7. Quite often I see 5 though which is too hot. Modified cars LFR7, or 8 if you have the coin for HKS tax." And further, when replying to a question about Nismo RN020-7 plugs (NGK part no LFR7AIX-P gap 0.8-0.9mm), Scotty wrote: "Those Nismo plugs are a 7 heat range, no point getting those [Nismo's] when the LFR7's are half the price. Gap doesn't matter in this case, as they will still work at 4mm gap thanks to our coils." So that's why I think maybe the 6's are too hot. Daleo's magic table (where did you get that!?!) indicates I should be running at least NGK 2309 LFR7AIX IX Iridium Plugs (which have an 0.8mm gap). I'll get some. Thank you all very much. What an absolute pearl this forum is! I'm off to donate.
  14. Sparking Plugs For Tastefully Modified VQ25DET During a regular service recently, the workshop fitted new plugs - NGK PLFR6A-11 Platinums - to my NM35. And now the engine misses on boost at anything over 5,200 rpm. The mechanic threw away the original plugs so I can't check their heat range. But I suspect the newly fitted 6 heat range plugs are too hot. If you had an M35 with a set of tasteful mods such as: Hypergear SS2PU turbo, fat intake, HDi intercooler, uprated actuator, Scotty dump & front pipes, Fujitsubo exhaust, HDi EBC, Walbro fuel pump and big injectors, & GReddy Ultimate ECU, etc., making 267 of Jez's kW atw, would you run a 7 heat range plug like the NGK LFR7AIX IX Iridiums, or would you jump to an 8 heat range? Thank you.