Joni Boi

[Update] I've finally got around putting a bigger turbo on and I also swapped the leaking vct head with a different head that i didn't weld this time! 🤣 Just drilled and tapped the head for the external vct feed. Theres plenty of meat. I don't know why I got the other one welded. I think when i did all my research on this, i did see someone say that you have to add more meat on for the threads. Oh well. New head is running good! No leaks at all. I actually bought this other Neo head 2 years ago from gumtree complete with valve train already machined because my intake cam gear's rear bolts loosened over time and one of them rattled loosely inside my timing belt then eventually broke the intake gear. Luckly i was just leaving for work driving slowly up our street and the car just shat its self and turned off. I had to push it back home and found out what happened. So i instantly thought the valves must have kissed the pistons and thus why i bought another head. After i replaced the intake cam with another one, i tested the compression and it was still fine. Also ran fine and ive been driving like this for ages. I recently took that old head off and saw no damage to the valves or pistons. So then i just cleaned all the old gasket off, gave the surface a bit of a hone with oil stone and put new nissan head gasket on, placed the other head on, and everything els. I went with a Hypergear ATR45 .82 rear ball bearing turbo with a Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate that Hypergear welded onto the rear turbo housing and then plumbs back into the dump pipe. I also upgraded the coils to PRP R35 coil kit. I then went to get it tuned and made 367hp. Tuner said straight away, the Z32 maf and nistune is now the restriction and i will be going Haltech soon. The engine has now done 41000kms and its going f#ck!n mint. No leaks at all now. My little brother also has a R34 GTT. We also did the exact same RB30 bottom end swap like i did. He also has the exact same mods that i have except he has Haltech platinum pro and his made 415hp and hes loving it.

Ah ok haha. there you go. I work in a plastic injection moulding factory and I was looking at our big industrial water chillers that cools our mould dies and machines and thought, hmmmm imagine if you could have a mini chiller in your car that could cool a water to air intercooler. And I thought I was on to something. Googled chillers on engines and FI Interchillers came up and thought, holy shit, whys no one using these more on other engines. Even looking at this video made me tempting to try one: I would never buy one of the FI interchillers (waayyy to expensive for trying something like this). I'll always stick to my a2a. That's why I just wanted to check if anyone has tried this with success so I could try and make my own chiller maybe. There's just not much info on a chiller+water to air setup. Would be a good video for someone to do on 😉

Has anyone tried chillers with an water to air cooler on their RBs instead of air to air intercoolers? I know there has been some people that have tried the water to air intercoolers with the water/coolant running into a seperate radiator with fan and then that water/coolant runs through the water to air intercooler via a pump. Some has said that there were problems with this setup, one of them being heat soak. And they don't really make a difference compared to air to air, or it wasn't really worth it the money? But, has anyone tried this setup with a chiller instead the water being cooled in a radiator+fan? There is a company called FI Chillers that make chillers for supercharged and turbo drag cars. Mainly for hellcats, holdens and other v8s... They explain it better on their website: https://fiinterchillers.com/tech_articles/how-does-a-universal-interchiller-kit-adapt-to-my-car/ The chiller mounts somewhere (anywhere), water (AC Delco 50/50 anti freeze recommended) flows from a reservoir into the chiller via a pump then into a water to air intercooler and back to the reservoir. The chiller is cooled with refrigerant gas by tapping into your exsisting AC system. Doesn't sound too complicated? Alot of the guys that run these chillers rave about how low their IAT are. Just curious if anyone has tried this on their RB's or any jap related turbo engine? (Mainly daily/street use) Wanted to see what kind of gains you could see and/or feel with a setup like this.

*Wanting to buy* RB25DET Neo cylinder head complete or bare. Let me know if you have one for sale thanks.

Thanks! I've heard some guys on here have gotten away with the stock R34 GTT bonnet. Mine is aftermarket (Z-tune fiberglass i think?) that has fins pointing towards the engine and they did foul on the stock intake plenum and throttle body aswell as the intercooler pipe running over the fan and it couldn't close. Because it was fiberglass, I just grabbed a dremal and hacked away on the under side of the bonnet to make it close. It barely closes now and is still rubbing on my intake plenum and pipe. These Z-tune bonnets come with a tray under the fins so that you don't get rain dripping on your engine. I can't run that tray so I just use aluminium tape to close the fins. I wish I could go FFP, only for the clearance and ease of service but they are out of my budget. The engine is now on the 10000kms mark. Been using the car everyday to and from work. Hasn't had any issues yet. Running mint as ?. There is still a little oil leak coming from that f*c@ing!!! external shitty VCT weld which is causing my belts to be a bit oily which is not good for the timing belt. But it doesn't drain my oil under the dip stick mark before the next service. I will have to replace it and see what I can do with the leak some time. It really feels like it needs a bigger turbo. I can't wait to get a new one. I was thinking of hypergear's ATR45 BB? Just a simple bolt on to stock rb25 mani.

Hey guys, I'm back with another tutorial that I made (thanks to isolation). This is on a how to swap the RB25 bottom end to a RB30 bottom end with a 25 head in a R34 (R33s and R32 should be kinda similar i think) that I did last year. I had to split the tutorial into 3 parts (each part is like 15mins). It starts with preping the RB30 block, to taking out the RB25, and then putting in the RB30/25 and starting it. The reason why I did an RB30 swap was not because of an upgrade but because my RB25 was showing up bad results on the comp tests and there were cheap RB30s going around (I actually made money out of selling parts from the RB30 that I didn't need lol). The goal for this car is only to be a daily responsive streeter on pump fuel (won't ever take it to the track). It's my first time ever doing something like this (I had no help, did this on my own), so take it as a guide line. If I were to do this again, I would definitely use a proper engine crane and take the whole engine out including the gearbox next time, but yeah... this was a real poor mans job and it got the job done and I've been driving this RB30/25DET Neo everyday to and from work as my daily and I've never had a problem with it (have been clocking 5000+ Kms on it as of 10/4/2020). Here's the videos: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: I'm really happy with the outcome. Considering I knew nothing about RBs or any engine before I bought this R34. I learnt everything from researching (a shit load) on these forums, so thanks SAU, here's me giving back. The car ended up making 323.8 HP on the dyno with my OP6 highflow turbo which is a bit too small for this engine. So I will go with a bigger one in the near future. List of mods on my car previously that I brought over to the RB30 swap: HyperGear G2 RB25DET OP6 highflow turbo with ballbearing 3" turbo back exhaust 100mm thick FMIC Splitfire coil packs Xspurt 525cc injectors HDI EBC Nistune ECU Z32 AFM Walbro 255lph fuel pump (hard wire mod) 98RON Exedy HD clutch External oil cooler Koyorad all aluminum radiator Just something to add here on the side if anyone was interested (kinda like a build page, but I might as well put it here). This was my whole budget explained: So the total amount that I spent on this build/recon/swap was $3415. I bought a complete RB30 engine (without the box) for $150. Apparently this engine was used in a TAFE course for mechanic students to practise timing stuff on, so the pisons had heaps of screw driver marks on. A recon was in the picture anyways because I want this engine to last for ages. So I only wanted to keep the block, crank and rods. I sold everything els (head, alternator, ecu ect) for $240. That's already a profit of $90 lol! The reconditioning of the RB30 block and RB25 head was the most expensive out of the whole budget costing $1420. The recon from Harris Engines in Perth: $400 - Bore and torque plate hone $190 - Face block $180 - Machine and fit crank collar $90 - Acid bath $90 - Face/deck RB25 head $50 - Acid bath head $90 - Face flywheel $150 - Fitment of pistons to rods $180 - Balance rotating assembly All other things: $270 - 1mm oversized Hypatec RB30ET set of pistons + Hastings Rings $253.45 - RB25 ARP Head stud kit (202-4301) from wolf racing $261.25 - RB25DET Neo genuine nissan gasket kit $106.49 - RB30 ACL race main STD bearing set $88 - RB30 ACL race conrod STD bearing set $30 - RB30 small end rod bushes/bearing set $99 - RB crank collar from Lewis Engines $38.75 - RB oil restrictors (one 1.5mm and one blank one) $38 - RB30 brass welsh plugs $13.71 - RB spigot bush $38.98 - RB genuine nissan timing belt fastner kit $41.5 - genuine nissan thermostat $78.14 - Genuine nissan R34 pull type thrust bearing $110.5 - Genuine nissan RB25 exhaust manifold fastner kit $43.2 - Dayco 94407 (T866) timing belt $72.11 - Mamba RB30/25 turbo water braided line kit $81.59 - Braided -4AN hose + fittings for the external VTC feed from Enzed $330 - Dyno tuned car by C-Red in Perth All of the labour except for the recon and tuning was done by me.

Listening to my own house mix currently

Are you talking about the BOV plumb back pipe that comes from the blow off valve and goes into the intake pipe? or the IACV pipe that comes from the J pipe and goes into the IACV thats sits on the intake manifold? (can't remember what ID their pipes were). Here's a pic of my catch can setup: So what you described is correct. My catch can only has 2 outlets, but if you have 3 you can connect both rocker covers to the two ports without joining them like I did, then 1 outlet to the intake. I don't think it matters what ports you use because the turbo creates suction, so the 1 outlet port will be sucking and the other two rocker cover port blowing (). I've left my PVC pipe alone. I'm pretty sure if you block it, your ECU won't like it. (idk)

If anyone is looking for this coolant drain bolt/plug, the nissan part number is: 08931-3041A Costs like $5 brand new at a Nissan dealership. I'm pretty sure it fits all RBs (correct me if I'm wrong) and some nissan engines.

haha I was going to replace that kettle and thought, hmmm... I'll use it one more time for this video.

Yeah, I was actually ment to post earlier to say that there would be no other way that I can think of to get all that old coolant out of the block without un doing the drain plug. I was going to suggest removing the lower coolant hose from the radiator but the thermostat will be in the closed position when engine is cold. So the plug is the best way. Just get underneath the car like i did and un do it. I never knew nissan had it in a blue color. Mine was green. I just used normal thread sealant from loctite which you can get anywhere. I also bought a new coolant drain plug (Nissan Part No: 08931-3041A) from a Nissan dealership for like $5. Let me know how you go. Edit: looking back at this video, I can't believe I did that whole tutorial hungover lol

I got my exhaust manifold resurfaced so I thought I'd make a video of the removal process. Let me know if it's good or sh#t. I'm no mechanic or expert in RB's (or any motors), I just use google and use my mechanical mind... Tutorial was done on my 1998 R34 GTT RB25Det Neo (Hypergear Highflow turbo with stock exhaust manifold).

Hi guys, I'm after a manual cluster/tachometer for my R34 GTT, since mine poofed its self. Was looking at going for a nismo but waaayy to expensive and would rather use the cash for engine mods. Even just the PCD cluster board would be amazing. Thanks

I only used it for the first flush. I suppose you can if you want to. I don't know much about radiator flushes, it's not like you need it, it just makes the flush process faster I guess. They're only about $10 for 500ml at supercheap

I would assume the same as the coolant drain bolt: 34-44 Nm? I just tighten it and when it starts getting tight, just nip it a little. Won't fall out lol. You can put thread sealant on the sump so it never leaks.

I bought new oil, filter and sump + washer bolt (from nissan dealership). Came home, jacked the car up, went to go unbolt the sump and f**k me, the bloody thing is stripped... Now I've got a problem that I can't be bothered posting a new thread about so I'm gonna post here. It keeps turning anti-clock wise but it won't come out, not even a little bit. $@!$$@!!! Previous owner or mechanic must have over tightened it when they changed the oil. I really don't want to buy a new drain pan. This is so stupid! I tried getting a screw driver under the sump to lever it into a thread but cant get a gap between the sump and pan. Also tried loosening and at the same time pulling it with pliers but no dice. GUYS, don't overtighten stuff!!

Cheers mate I'll do that tomorrow. Anyone els want to voice their suggestions, I'm still open for anything els to try

Oh ok, I thought turbolight was good for your turbo or something lolz, I don't know much about engine oils. But I'll try get something full synthetic 10w-40 like junkie said

Hey guys I want to replace my engine oil in my R34 (RB25DET Neo). I've done some research on the best oils. Everyone has their own opinion on oils but the majority seems to be leaning towards the Motul Turbolight 4100 engine oil. So I went to a couple of stores to check if any has them in stock but na-da, nothing. Autobarn has 2 Motul oils which are 6100 synergie and 8100 x-cess. I asked one of the clerks at the store and he said that I should try Auto Pro, so I rang two Auto Pro stores and they both told me that Motul has stopped producing turbolights and that Motul has replaced it with Motul H-Tech 100 Plus. Is this true? Has anyone tried Motul H-Tech 100+? Is it really the replacement of turbolight and is it the same or better? Also, a store here in Perth has Motul 300V Chrono in stock which apparently is some high quality shit for if you're going to the races or something but it's $110 for 4L! And I only use my R34 as a streetcar and daily drives. I'm not planning on racing with it or going sideways. Will the 300V be worth it as a streetcar? Also, now that winter is starting should I look at buying a lower viscosity oil? What do you guys reckon?

Hey guys I made tutorial video on draining and replacing the coolant on a RB25DET aswell as changing the thermostat: I did it according to what the Nissan R34 Service Manual says. My first tutorial, so let me know what you guys think.

Never mind! I got it loose using a smaller 14mm length socket cos the first attempt with the longer socket didn't sit onto the bolt correctly (on an angle) How do I delete this topic? I will do a video tutorial on this coolant replacement.

Thanks for the reply! I just tried to loosen it and you're right, it's super tight! And I can feel the bolt stripping so i stopped. Why do they have to make it so hard for us to flush the coolant . I had the same problem on my previous car and just drained it from the thermostat housing but it's not a proper flush. Any suggestions on how to remove that drain bolt without stripping it other than welding a 14mm socket on to it?

Hey guys. I'm going to flush out my old coolant from the block that the previous owner had in this R34 GTT and put in new Nissan long life coolant mixed with distilled water. I'm just making sure if this is the coolant drain bolt from the engine block. Here's my video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B41O2BuVp0A I'm pretty sure the bolt size is 14mm. I'll do a video tutorial on flushing the coolant as there are non on youtube for rb25det's. Can someone confirm this is the coolant drain block and I'll delete this topic. Cheers!

I bought this from autobarn I don't know if this is the right one, but I'll give it a try next time. Do you know if I need to mix anything with it like thinners?

Ok here's an update on my faded bonnet. I've sanded and buffed out the white cloudy oxidation (or what ever you call it) out of the bonnet and got it to look almost brand new, so I'll leave this here for other people to see. I wet sanded my bonnet with 1500 grit sand paper. It took ages for me to get deep enough to the damaged layer of the clear resin. So I went to bunnings and bought 800 grit sand paper and it worked much faster keeping in mind that I did not sand through to the actual carbon fiber. Only sanded it down to the shitty layer. It took me alot of hours to get it sanded down as this bonnet has alot of vents and od shapes After wet sanding it with 800 grit I then wet sanded it with 2000 grit sand paper. Then I let it dry and polished it with Meguiar's clear coat safe polishing compound. The next process was polishing it with Meguiar's scratch x 2.0 to get those little scratches out left behind from the sanding and buffing. Both of these were about $20-$30 a bottle at supercheap. I only needed 1 of each. Here's the finished results: I was planning to spray another clear coat on after sanding but the compressor I have does not work any more. I am going to sand it again and spray on a new coat when I get a new compressor for my spray gun. It's a temporary fix as the sun will eat through it again but I'm happy with the outcome.