klutched
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Posts posted by klutched
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On 8/15/2021 at 5:39 PM, robbo_rb180 said:
You could use a frequency divider to help drop it as I am getting bits together to wire a factory VR sensor to my Link and found a vr to hall converter with divider that I am hoping to get soon
https://www.vems.com/vr-to-hall.htmlYeah I'm thinking about that, not sure what I need to divide on hall sensor though.
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Not too much going on last week. Got the fitting welded on for the IACV so that's all plumbed up now. Just gotta get my mate to do his magic with it.
Currently I'm running wheel speed off the pinion which maxes out around 130-140km/h which is less than ideal. Have ordered an ABS hub and a couple of cherry sensors to get wired in for driven and undriven wheel speeds. Not sure how I'm going to go with the factory abs ring as theyre 46 teeth which will only allow me to go down to 23 teeth. Might be time to ditch the G4+ and go something newer.
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On 8/9/2021 at 11:11 AM, Piggaz said:
What’s wrong with 23 psi of E map for 35 psi of boost?
On 8/9/2021 at 12:12 PM, Lithium said:Only thing I could imagine is that it suggests there is something wrong with how the EMAP is reading - that seems way too low, unless it means 23psi of excess EMAP versus IMAP (like, EMAP-IMAP = 23psi)
Epic build, either way - awesome to see it at this stage!There's nothing wrong with that, but we need to check that it's actually correct. We were expecting it to be a lot closer than it is especially at 35psi. If its right then we can continue adding boost in 🙈
Throughout the mulitple boost levels we have seen a 12-13psi difference so be interesting to see whats going on.
On 8/9/2021 at 8:45 AM, Shoota_77 said:The reverse lights are wired up as an assistant for the bloke that has now been left in your dust. Helps him track you down a few kms up the road once he catches up! 😂
You might need to wire in a one way diode to make sure the voltage isn’t feeding back to the transbrake.
😂😂 yeah I think I'll wire the reverse lights off its own relay and see how we go
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On 8/4/2021 at 9:12 AM, Shoota_77 said:
You're killing it! This is a great build. You're right about getting the power steering hard line out, it's a dog of a job with the engine in the car! There is a fitting you can buy I think from Speedflow or Proflow that converts the rack to AN fittings. You can also buy a banjo to AN fitting that goes on the pump. I got all the stuff but ended up going electric pump. I wish I could tell you where I bought it all from and part numbers but god only knows where it all is now!
Keep it up, you're making awesome progress!
Love the floor in the shed too, that's awesome 😂
Thanks mate. Yeah I definitely put that one in the too hard basket 😂 I might have another look at it later on if it keeps leaking.
Got the fittings I needed to hook up the IACV and made the lines up. I pulled the bumper and cooler pipe out this arvo so I'll hopefully take it to my mates to get welded sometime this week and get it all back together... for now.
Ordered a 3 way pressure sensor block to relocate all my sensors off the motor and all in one place. With that means ill have to rewire the sensors. So thought why not just rewire the engine loom with a bulkhead on the firewall and wire the stock loom on the inside and new tefzel/raychem on the outside. Which means if/when I get a new ecu I just have to rewire to the inside. Have started listing what I'm going to need for it.
We put her on the dyno last wednesday to give it a tuneup after the manifold change. We now have boost down at 23-24psi on gate pressure which churned out about 670rwhp. Turned it up went around 780rwhp on 30psi and 873whp on 34-35psi. Need to sus out the emap because we are getting 23psi EMAP on 35psi boost. Dynos running new software which is probably why its down a bit to last time. But theres also an issue with the torque reading, was saying it was making 530ft lbs at 35psi 😬 anyway its all tuned up pretty good and on multiple boost levels so I can play around with boost myself now. Loaded in a boost curve so when its back together ill be able to test and see how it goes bringing it on like that.
Also need to investigate whats going on with my reverse lights coming on through the run. They are wired in with the transbrake so I hope its not back feeding and trying to engage the transbrake through the run....
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EMAP is all wired up now as well as the IACV, also fixed up fuel pressure wiring was looking a bit shitty. Mounted IACV today, difficult to find a spot to suit with the hoses to come off it. Just need to get a few fittings and a weld on and I can plumb it up.
Been busy working on the house lately last few days. Pulled up all the floor boards in the bedrooms as we're going carpet which gets installed on monday. Painted the skirting boards to match the rest of the trims and had a couple door frames to do as well. Counting down the days until I dont have to get out of bed onto a bare concrete floor 😂
Spare boards have gone into the shed though. So much nicer to roll around on now. I think I might do the rest of the shed at some stage when I can be bothered taking everything out 😂
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On 7/30/2021 at 9:30 AM, robbo_rb180 said:
-6 Teflon to and from it
Damn it, i honestly cant be bothered pulling the hardline out after seeing where it runs today 😂 maybe next to the engines out ill do it haha.
Looked at a couple options for turbo drain onto the pump but its going to be too close to get bolts in as well as the fitting on/in.
Got the pulley pressed on today and emap wiring done. End up with a 4pk1050 belt and it all looks pretty lined up. We'll see if she stays on.
EMAP wiring is into the cab now just have to wire it up to ecu. Shouldve marked the wires before i sleeved it all because its all white.
Tomorrow ill finish wiring it in and then start looking at IACV mounting.
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On 7/29/2021 at 10:21 PM, robbo_rb180 said:
Engine bay is looking great.
I used an aeroflow resivour as has 2 ports on bottom. No need to weld fittings on power steering pump. An AN turbo drain can be used for one part with the holes elongated and there is an adapter for the other. Will get a picture of what I used on my car.
Thanks mate!
What have you used for the line that goes to the rack?
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Parts finally rocked up from Golebys after 2 weeks... Ross p/s pulley, Syltech IACV and fluid temp sensor. PRP A/C relo kit was here so started putting it all on today. Think the belt is lined up ok but we will see once ive got the P/S back on and a belt on it all.
Tomorrow I'm going to head down to mates shop and press this new pulley on and crimp my emap plug so I can finish wiring that up.
Need to find a solution to put a new p/s resi in that will take AN fittings. I think I'll weld a fitting onto the pump for the -10 line and I think ill go all the way back to the rack for the 10mm line and run a new hardline up in -6.
IACV im struggling to find a good spot to mount it that will still give me good placement to run hose for. Will look more into that once I've put the p/s and emap back together.
Then I'll be onto finishing my gearbox wiring loom. Thats going to come down to what fittings I can find that will be suitable for the job as I need to put an port adapters in for the pressure sensors.
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Heat wrap turned up on Thursday so I got to work on Friday and wrapped the dump up. Didnt get any time to put it in yesterday, had to keep the boss happy and get her some stuff. Installed a new clothes line for her so she can dry my clothes 😂 Good for painting parts too.
Today put the gate and screamer on and plumbed all the lines and hoses back up and put her all back together 💪
Had to get a fix so went for a quick spin to see how the new mani goes. 2nd pull I saw 22psi on the dash which is amazing. Hopefully I was full throttle but definitely better than the 30psi it was before! Single gate sounds mint too. Hopefully get her on the dyno soon and give her a tuneup and get these pumps staged as well.
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Got back to Brissy on Saturday arvo. Had a nice morning drive down Fraser. Could nice photos.
On nightshift this week so went and picked up mani and pipes yesterday and spent a few hours putting it all back together. Came up pretty good, i just need to get a new radiator setup and paint it black as well 😂
Everythings back on except dump pipe and gate/screamer now. Have to wait until the heat wrap arrives that I ordered. Have new crimpers coming to terminate my pressure sensor plugs so need to wait for them before I can finish wiring emap up.
So cars not far off running, ill probably just wait until I get the a/c relo and p/s pulley before I do drive it around. Will have to dump the p/s fluid and pull the pump off so I can change the pulleys and while thats out will give me better access to the a/c compressor.
Fingers crossed everything arrives for me this week 😬
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On 7/15/2021 at 4:12 PM, khezz said:
How do you find the 3.4? I was talked out of it at the time of my build and went 3.2 instead. Now I'm considering selling up and going billet 3.6
Its a torque monster, very hard to get it to hook up especially being rwd. In a gtr would be awesome. It probably needs a dry sump but so far its been happy with the wet sump.
The 3.6 is a 3.4 with a few mm oversized bore right?
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Ordered a few goodies today. Got a Ross P/S pulley which they make for gtrs to run an r33 p/s pump with the 4pk belt so no modifying the pump and no more 3pk belt. Also got a PRP AC relocation bracket which pushes the a/c forward and jumps onto the same belt as the power steer. So it wont be overdriven on an ATI balancer and no more flicking or breaking AC belts.
Finally ordered some stuff that I need for my gearbox. Pressure sensor and a motorsport fluid temp sensor. Once I have them I'll be able to finish off my gearbox loom and have it all hooked up to the ECU and finally be able to test the dump valve out...
Ordered black heat wrap for my dump pipe too. Decided to change it up and go to black should all blend in now.
Ordering a Syltech IACV as well. Currently not running anything and apparently these new valves are pretty good so we'll see how it goes. Need to decide if I'm going to atmosphere or to the fresh powdercoated cooler pipe 🤦♂️🤦♂️
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On 7/14/2021 at 5:34 PM, khezz said:
I hope so. I think it will come down to the skill of the tuner.
What's the rest of your setup?
Keep us posted with your results if you don't mind.
Yeah will do mate. Its a 26/30 3.4 stroker with a powerglide behind it.
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On 7/14/2021 at 9:14 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Prick lol...
More lockdowns for us Sydneysiders
Stop spreading covid then 😝😂
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Currently on holiday up on Fraser drinking beer and catching fish 👌
Ripped the car back apart a couple weeks ago and sent it off to be coated. Should look sweet when i get it back in. Ill pick it up on Monday when I'm back in Brissy and start putting it all back together.
Also have a new set of coilovers lined up that I'll pick up at some stage. Going to be on the hunt for a gtr diff/axle setup as well if anyone knows/is selling one.
Probably end up putting it on the rollers and setting up the staged pumps and see what boost the new manifold setup gives us. Once we're ready for power runs we'll put it on the hub and see what she will push out 💪
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On 5/6/2021 at 3:43 PM, khezz said:
Gen 2 7685.
Beast, in a manual you'll have no problem achieving 1100hp. My old 7175 went 1021rhhp 35psi through the auto. Currently have a gen1 7685 will be going onto the hub hopefully this month.
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Took her down to the shop this morning and managed to get most of it done. BOV is on and plumbed up, comp cover has been tweaked along with the dump pipe. Mani welded up for the EMAP outlets and made hardline up today for it. Just need to wire it up now and we'll be good to go.
Now to pull it all back apart and get it sent off for powder/ceramic.
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8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Come work on my car too lol
Send it up here bro. Im sure I can turn it into another 1000hp drag monster 😛
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So I got the GTT seats in. Little bit of modding but nothing to crazy. They do sit high though which is shit as Im going to struggle wearing a helmet in the car.... But they are way more comfy. We'll see how I go might end up just changing to gtr seats 😂
Black braid is a nono for hot side plumbing, remade it with some stainless i had laying around.
Mounted emap sensor on firewall, decided to not use the copper and just do it all in hardline should look a bit better.
Plumbed up the gate and turbo as well with all new -3 braid. Need to get a couple more fittings tomorrow for the BOV and plumb that up to the intake mani. I marked out the BOV position and pulled the bumper off and cut the hole for that. Taking the car down to the shop tomorrow to be fabbed. Hopefully can knock it all out tomorrow then i'll drive it home and rip it all back apart and send to coating.
Hopefully get it back from coating in a week and then I'll put her back together and we'll chuck her on the dyno and see what sort of boost we can get out of her. And then turn it up and see what EMAP is doing (fingers crossed will take around 38-40psi).
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On 6/3/2021 at 9:03 AM, admS15 said:
Congratulations on the newborn.
Car is looking real nice👌
Thanks mate x2!
Springs turned up last Friday so I got those put together. Just have to swap the coilovers out again and set them back at the height they were before. Difference in thickness between the 13kg and 5kg is pretty big. Fingers crossed they will work well for me.
Tarks EMAP setup also arrived last friday for the new mani setup. Thanks to @Dose Pipe Sutututu for the hookups. Have to work out how to get lines from each scroll and Tee'd into the copper coil. (Might have a solution)
Sold my brides and picked up some 34 gtt seats today. Few mods I have to do on them but nothing too crazy. Look decent and are pretty comfy and will allow easy access to the back seats for the little guy onces hes old enough and his mum will let him 🤦♂️
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So have had the last 3.5wks off work with the birth my son. Have managed to sneak off into the shed every now and then 😂
I had stock suspension sitting in the shed so decided to chuck it in and see how it sat and if it would give me that squat I needed to get some more power down. Car came up about 15-20mm from where I had it sitting. Took her out for a cruise last friday and gave her a hit. She felt good up top, didnt wiggle. Decel we could smell something burning... Rubber.. Got home and the outside edge tucked so hard into the guard it rubbed on the top of the inner arch.
So they will be coming back out, ive ordered 5kg springs for my coilovers that should hopefully get here soon.. They originally had 13kg fronts and 8kg rears. I disassembled the rears already for the new coils to get thrown on, and decided to put the 8kg springs in the front to give me a bit nicer ride. I changed them out and managed to pick up about 15mm more down travel which will hopefully help get the front up a bit more under power to transfer the weight to the rear. We will see how it goes though.
Also gave her a quick polish before the meet on Friday and did a few wiring mods while I had the rear seats out. I've put another wire from the ecu to the surge tank to trigger pumps 2 and 3. Plan is to stage them, have one pump running under certain inj duty and it will kick the other 2 in when needed. That should save me about 40-40amps while cruising around and also reduce the heat in there.
While I was in there i found the wire for the reverse lights and wired it back up to the transbrake so now have reverse lights again
Decided to rip my brides out and sell them and put something more stock back in. Thinking r34 gtt or s15 seats. Atm its horrible to try and get into the rear seats so will be good having flip forwards again.
Pulled the turbo mani off to get ready for a new one. Think I might go back to a CRG mani. Not sure on style yet.
Sorry pics are a bit out of order
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On 5/3/2021 at 1:33 PM, reaper said:
Brett is right in what he said about the root cause however I wouldn't blame the vcam you just need to tune around it.
I ended up bowing the cylinder walls between each cylinder, causing the fire rings not to seat properly. This was caused by the high cylinder pressures I was generating with such a responsive setup.
What we have done now (other than going to an rd28 block and a slightly larger turbo) is to torque manage the curve and slowly bring the boost in rather than bring it in in one giant slab.
Whilst it doesn't give you that huge push in the low to mid range it used to it is fairly linear whilst still retaining plenty of mid range.
It has been rock solid now we have done that and I am confident the same could be done with a 6870, 3.2, vcam as well. The only problem with that is it was mostly over by 7 so you aren't seeing the benefits of making it linear and revving the car out to 9k+Did you find big gains going to an RD block? Im thinking about starting to prep one for my car to get that thicker deck. I might need it if we put a little something ontop of the 7685 😂🤦♂️
Is yours sleeved or not needed?
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5 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:
That engine bay looks great.
So Motive DVD Cootamundra star this year?
Thanks mate!
Nahh im missing 2 axles for that, would struggle to run 10s down there I think 😂😂
Hopefully get to do some more racing the next couple months before the baby comes but also doing reno's so we'll see what happens.
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Took her out for a quick spin couple fridays ago to a local meet with some of the boys so I gave her a much needed clean. Lots of tough cars out, was a good night.
Started to pull her apart last week to fit the new shroud and fan and relocate my auto cooler. Had to run some new lines for the auto cooler which came up pretty good. Wired the fans up to the ecu, oil cooler fan is controlled by temp oil temp now which should keep that all in check. Can't control the auto fan off temp as i havent put a sensor in yet so ive got it constantly running under 40km/h only starting from when the coolant temp reaches 80⁰ to give it a chance to warm up a bit quicker.
I bought a haltech fuel level conditioner to get my fuel level going on the aim dash so I installed that but somethings not right with it. I have it wired up to the dash and not the ecu but it should still work properly. As the tank fills up the voltage from the sender drops and the reading I was getting on the dash was going into negative mV which was really weird and can't enter negative reading into the dash so I need to work out whats going on. I thought I wouldve got a wider voltage range as well but it seemed to read around 1.6v at empty and go down from there.
She's booked in for a wheel alignment next Wednesday just intime for roll racing on the Saturday. Hopefully get it back and be able to turn the boost up for it.
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GOT SUM's RB34
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted
Yeah correct, have been told this contraption will divide the frequency. I believe you can set it up to divide 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16. Cost a few dollars to setup each one so I'll give it a whirl and see how it goes otherwise I'll just have to deal with whatever speeds they give me. Currently 24teeth on the pinion with 3.69 gears, which is about 88 counts per rotation of the wheel and we're getting about 130-140km/h. So technically going to the 46 teeth should give me about 1.9 times more speed which will be almost what I need. Not 100% sure if thats correct though, but I'll find out and maybe only have to divide it by 2 which will be plenty if that calc is correct.