klutched
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Posts posted by klutched
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Took her out for a quick spin couple fridays ago to a local meet with some of the boys so I gave her a much needed clean. Lots of tough cars out, was a good night.
Started to pull her apart last week to fit the new shroud and fan and relocate my auto cooler. Had to run some new lines for the auto cooler which came up pretty good. Wired the fans up to the ecu, oil cooler fan is controlled by temp oil temp now which should keep that all in check. Can't control the auto fan off temp as i havent put a sensor in yet so ive got it constantly running under 40km/h only starting from when the coolant temp reaches 80⁰ to give it a chance to warm up a bit quicker.
I bought a haltech fuel level conditioner to get my fuel level going on the aim dash so I installed that but somethings not right with it. I have it wired up to the dash and not the ecu but it should still work properly. As the tank fills up the voltage from the sender drops and the reading I was getting on the dash was going into negative mV which was really weird and can't enter negative reading into the dash so I need to work out whats going on. I thought I wouldve got a wider voltage range as well but it seemed to read around 1.6v at empty and go down from there.
She's booked in for a wheel alignment next Wednesday just intime for roll racing on the Saturday. Hopefully get it back and be able to turn the boost up for it.
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Tis true, we have bought a house. I finally have a shed to play in. Only thing is I cant get the skyline in yet due to the slab being a bit high. Need to get some timbers down so I can drive in but she's happy in the garage for the time being 😂
Not much has happened lately, I did order some new wheel nuts and traction rods from GKtech with hopes to get these 275s clearing. Got them installed on Saturday, havent driven her yet but will need to get my alignment touched up. Has a fair bit more clearance on the inside guard at the front where it was rubbing so fingers crossed they will be ok now.
Also ordered a fan and shroud for my oil cooler. Hopefully that will arrive this week and I can start putting it on and wiring the fan to the ecu. I will be moving my trans cooler to the passenger side and wiring that to the ecu as well for full control instead od 24/7 while ignition is on.
Aiming to get it all done by the 27th so I can go to my first roll racing in over a year now...
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10 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:
Nice work on the loom, how much more effort is it doing it in raychem shrink?
Its definitely a little more effort preparing the wiring. If youre not concentric twisting I like to make sure the wirings nice and not all twisted up together because you'll see lumps a lot more. Sometimes you cant help it especially if youre doing a lot of splices in one area. But yeah like @iruvyouskyrine said I definitely prefer it over braid. You end up with a lot nicer loom that's sealed and protected from chemicals/heat a lot better. It is more expensive but when youre doing a full wiring loom it doesnt work out a lot cheaper to do it in braid.
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Finished off the cooler/relo Friday. Took it out for a cruise Saturday night on the same route we did a couple weeks ago. Max temp got to 92⁰ which is about 20⁰ cooler than without the cooler. Got onto the highway and temp was sitting between 80-85⁰ with a few hits in a row. Super happy with that. Next will be to upgrade the auto cooler and move it to the passenger side similar to how Ive done engine oil cooler and I'll probably chuck a fan on each through the ecu to trigger at certain temps.
Gave her a quick wash and wiped down the engine bay before the cruise on Saturday. Was a bit chilly 10-12⁰ she still struggles for traction have to really roll it on until I've got some wheel speed. Hoping when I get 275s on and lower the rear a bit more she'll hook up a lot better on the street. Still need to put my subframe collars in aswell.
Getting a lot closer to sending her down the 1/4 now. When I do the new auto cooler I'll throw in a couple pressure sensors and a temp sensor and wire it to the ecu so we can play around with the dump valve and also setting up 2step.
In other news been working on a wiring loom for a customer, Link G4+ Fury for an rb25det in an s13. Turned out pretty nice. Full tefzel with raychem shrink. Makes me want to redo my loom so bad. Couple pics below. Forgot to take photos of the finished loom
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26 minutes ago, Tobz said:
Hey! Who did the wiring for your dash? Did you do it all yourself or did you get someone?
got a dash for my car, but I’m not the best with car electrical work so trying to find a suitable person who can get this done
damn just realised your in queensland! Any hints or tips would be awesome!
Yeah mate I wired it up myself. I'm a sparky so not so difficult for me haha. Just use a multimeter for any inputs to dash.
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Ordered all the stuff i needed for oil cooler setup earlier this week. Setrab oil cooler like @Dose Pipe Sutututu the baller. Tarks oil filter block and an Aeroflow billet filter mount. Got cracking on it today and got the cooler half mounted, filter relo on and tarks block on. Tomorrow I'll finish the lines off and make the second bracket for the cooler. Also trimmed the bumper out to get a bit more airflow onto the cooler.
Shes a snugggg fit in there with only mm's to spare. Auto cooler is currently half behind it for now but I'll eventually get a new cooler and relocate it over to the passenger side.
Going out for a cruise on Sat night so will be a good test to see how the cooler goes. If its still a bit warm we'll get a fan on behind her.
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Want it gone $500
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Up for sale is my Nismo 300km dash. Dash reads at 22146km. Great condition everything works like it should.
Located North Brisbane
$600 neg
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Got the dash wired up and went for a small cruise on friday night. Dash is awesome! Can see all the data now. Got the speed sensor working yesterday, just need to calibrate it now. Then the last one is fuel level, need to pull the sender out and measure resistances for full and empty. Also worked out we need an oil cooler. Will chuck a filter relocation in with it as well.
Plan is to move the auto cooler to the passenger side and shoehorn the engine oil cooler on the drivers side somehow
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Also anyone know what size resistor would work?
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Just finished installing my new AiM MXP dash. Thought I would run into this issue of the alternator not charging.
From what I've read the exciter wire runs from the dash to the alternator. Ign +12v puts power to the lamp while the alternator isnt charging. When the alternator is charging it changes the exciter wire from a gnd to +12v therefor the lamp becomes unlit.
As I don't have a lamp there anymore can I get +12v from the ign with a resistor and connect it to my alternator exciter wire to get the alternator to charge again?
Thanks
Heres a little vid of the new dash
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Cluster mount finally rocked up today! Wasted no time getting it in for a test fit up. Looks awesome! Put power to the dash but still have to hook up can and the rest of the inputs.
I have set up a lot of the alarms, lights, pages and things so once it's all wired up should just assign what readings I want where from the ECU.
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6 hours ago, drifter17a said:
Nice one
spec and bhp?
i assume you are refering to 0-60?
Yeah like Ben said its 100-200km/h.
Have no need to test 0-60 really as most racing I do is done from a roll. And when we go to the strip it will obviously be a lot different to launching on the road.
Setup is in an r33 gtst. RB26/30 3.4 stroker, precision 7685, powerglide made 912rwhp on 33psi with more in it.
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Dragy is awesome! We use one in my car at roll racing to see if the changes are working. Fastest 100-200 is currently 4.11s, with the old turbo. New one I've done a 4.25 on 30psi in the middle of summer. Should go mid 3s now we've got it turned up if we can get it to hook up.
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New Aim MXP Strada dash arrived last week. Can't wait to get it put in and running. Will be able to have speedo on there now and also bonus of deleting my current boost gauge and trans temp gauge. I ordered a Mako dash surround as well, so just waiting for that to turn up before I can put it in. Should make the interior a lot cleaner and also have all the extra things I need to see infront of me
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15 minutes ago, BK said:
Nice work ? Were you not over 1000rwhp on a smaller Precision if I remember correctly ? How does the 7685 compare ?
Yeah we went 1021hp on 35psi with the 7175 gen 1 (thought it was a 7675). That was ok a hub dyno though. That old turbo was a menace it would come on pretty quick. New one definitely feels a little slower but I can't really compare because I changed the diff gears to 3.69s at the same time I put the 7685 in.
First vid is 7685 we had 30psi ramping to 37psi at around 6250rpm (can hear when she starts singing), second vid is 7175 racing mates gtr with the 7685. On a mainline hub he spun up 1130hp 36psi. I think I raced him on 28psi because we couldn't run anymore due to wheel spin with what I assume is the major difference with 4.11s vs the 3.69s now.
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For anyone interested in larger frame PTE's here's my 7685 Gen 1. 912rwhp on 33psi. Still have a little bit more boost to jam in it so we'll see how we go. Hoping to get up a bit closer to 960-980rwhp on the roller.
Setups is 26/30 3.4 stroker with a powerglide.
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Just been plotting along doing some small stuff lately. Noticed I had about 100mm of the interfooler blocked from airflow. Decided to trim the bar and reo out to help with some free extra cooling. Whole intercooler should now receive better airflow.
Also had my guard roller turn up. So I got to work lipping my guards to fit 275s under her. Never done it before the first side came out a bit average ill have to get the paint on the seam fixed and a couple little dents came through from something being stuck behind the lip. The passenger side came out mint, I cleaned behind the lip first and theres no dents or cracked paint.
I had my dash out to try and get my speedo working. While I was there I replaced the stock cig lighter with a usb charger I had laying around. Fit in there perfect without any modification!
I'm now running a diff speed sensor on the nose of the new housing. Tried to wire it straight to the dash but it's not the correct signal. So today I'll connect it back up to the ECU and try and send it to the dash from there so I can have a working speedo again.
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36 minutes ago, BK said:
Within Nismo, the GT LSD uses different shafts, not supplied, compared to the GT PRO which does supply shafts, and indeed are sometimes the same length.
That table your referencing from OS giken does not mean all the shafts on that table are interchangeable with each other at all, they are all different models of diff centres. For example, there is no 30 spline from giken to suit a GTR rear centre. Notice how on BNR32 it says use the 38220-12U00 and 38220-12U01 if existing is 30 spline, that's because the 12u shafts are 31 spline to suit the new giken centre. That link from street tuned is very misleading also, indicating you can use all of those different shafts in the same model, which is incorrect, as the shaft part numbers mentioned are all different spline counts and lengths as already mentioned.
As Gtsboy said, R32 GTR 30 spline shafts might not fit for other reasons, but if you do have 30 spline unequal half shafts already the only way to confirm is to physically try them.
If you want to try them the correct standard R32 GTR 30 spline half shaft part is 38220-05U10 for the right and 38220-05U11 for the left. This is what is compatible on Nismo GT LSD (not PRO) for the GTR rear centre. This I can confirm as have purchased many 05u, 12u and 24u GTR shafts.
Awesome thanks for clarifying that! Is that a standard factory item or is it different to suit the Nismo LSD? Have a mate with an early 32 GTR diff there that I might be able to test if so.
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Have just found this table as well. I assume is all the half shafts that are interchangeable with eachother?
Which would confirm the GTR ones would be applicable in my nismo center.
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33 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
I'm not sure I follow your line of thinking.
VLSDs have uneven length shafts that are not common with any other R200. Aftermarket diffs that are made to go where an VLSD was and use the original shafts will, of course, have the unequal length shafts. So you couldn't put equal length shafts out of a GTR diff in, etc.
Having said that, Nismo diffs, in particular, come with shafts to replace the original unequal length ones, which I think are basically the same shafts as you get in the open diffs. Your GTT diff shouldn't have OEM shafts in a Nismo centre.
Regardless, I thought even the various different spline count GTR axles were non-fittable into lesser models' diffs because the bearing diameter was different, regardless of both being 30 spline, or whatever.
Sorry I have just checked back when I ordered brand new genuine ones. P/N is 38220-0V771 (left) and 38220-0v770 (right). I punched in the P/N's and it linked me to OS Giken LSD which lists R32 GTR, ER34 and Z33 on there.
https://www.streettuned.com.au/shop/all/os-giken-super-lock-lsd-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr/
I would assume if I replaced with those part numbers with the 6x1 half shafts it would go straight into my diff coupled with a set of 6x1 GTR axles and hubs?
Ive just removed the right side half shaft from my center and confirmed it is a 30spliner.
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Just to confirm 30 spline half shafts are interchangable between eachother? I have a Nismo 1.5 way with I believe R34 GT-t 30 spline half shafts. I've been looking for info that early 32 GTR 30 spline half shafts will fit so I can upgrade to 6x1 axles.
From what I can see they look just about identical except for the obvious flange differences.
I need to pull my half shafts out and see what I've actually got as Nismo sometimes do some funky stuff using 2 of the same shaft etc.
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We did another run on the dyno the next morning no changes to the tune and went 908rwhp. Put a couple degrees timing in and went 912rwhp on 33psi.
Friday I got my new varex muffler on. Really surprised how quiet it is closed up its weird ? decided to get it turned down so you can't really see the valve easily. Thinking about painting the inside black so it hides it more. Need to get it pushed back to the bumper a little bit as it sits under the car too far.
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Chucked her on the roller this arvo to clean up the tune a bit. All going well made 900rwhp on about 34psi. Still have to play around with timing and also add a bit more boost in hopefully go closer to 1000rwhp.
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GOT SUM's RB34
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted
Thanks mate!
Nahh im missing 2 axles for that, would struggle to run 10s down there I think 😂😂
Hopefully get to do some more racing the next couple months before the baby comes but also doing reno's so we'll see what happens.