Dev RB25

I had a similar issue before, i resolved it by performing a clean install on the drivers. Ever since never had that error pop up again. been using fc hako close to 3 years, still running great.

only thing i can think of is a faulty afpr. thats the only thing that could possibly be "fixed" by leaning out the pressure. pulled out the vacuum line no visible fuel, but there was definitely scent of fuel. maybe the diaphragm is starting to rupture? gonna try to replace the afpr and hope for the best

ok.. now i get it. thanks for that.. did plenty of reading reg the advance and retard and finally got the grasp of that as well. so i turned my focus to the afrs. AFPR set 3bar - 0 vacuum , on vac - 2.5bar (liquid gauge type that came with afpr) Plug gap 1mm afrs on vacuum at abt 14.7 slowly free rev car, as soon as 0 vacuum on boost gauge, i see the afrs plummet to abt 11's . and ive alr adjust heaps on the correction map, yet it still plummets. so this got me thinking to reduce the afpr and watch the afrs again. so i had to reduce it from like 2.5bar(vac) to abt 1.9 to see afrs lean out to abt 16. from here.. i slowly adjusted the afpr back to about 2.3bar and did some corrections on the map..now the correction values seem more 'normal'. so after checking afrs, i free revved the car, and it revved all the way to the redline this time with no miss and after releasing the throttle, the engine idles normally.. everything seems to be ok. no funky idle like on 5cyl, and engine doesnt die. what the hell happened? ive reduce the pressure to 2.3bar before and adjusted afrs before, but it never fixed the issue. but after dropping it severely to 1.8~1.9 forcing the lean out, this somehow got things working again. 1 more difference. it use to hold pressure after key off at around 1.5bar for quite a while like maybe minutes. now when i key off...it drops all pressure within seconds. so something has changed. im just not sure how and why, any ideas?

thanks scott for clearing that up...

yea is starts fine. just troubleshooting a weird high rpm misfire. but i finally got arround to figuring this cam timing vs crank timing . Advance timing = anti clockwise rotation Retard = clockwise applies to cam timing Advance timing = clockwise rotation Retard = anti clockwise is for crank. the cas is a crank angle sensor mounted onto the cam. therefore advance is clockwise. and i just learn that the service manual says advance -

just realised my understanding was all wrong. not sure if it was the threads i was reading or kind of misguided myself. or the way things were said. i finallly understand the difference between cam timing vs crank timing. what i dont understand is why the service manual says to advance timing is anti clockwise.

CAS sensor problem Hi guys, Advance timing = anti clockwise rotation on cas = higher timing value on pfc Retard = clockwise = lower timing value Right? The issue is, my pfc reads lower timing when i advance , and higher value when i retard. Will this point out to a faulty CAS or wiring between the 2 signal wires swapped around ? my mechanic recently did an FFP upgrade and he messed around with some of the wirings, because he wanted to tidy up the engine bay. Hoping if any can shed some light if its a simple as just swapping the wires or should i replace the cas?

the gap acutally helped. it revs till abt 6.7k when i release the throttle. it idles like its on 5 cylinders and clears up after 5 secs+- . and when i try to find which cylinder , it always ends up at number 5, ive tried swapping injectors around and same thing.. and i also noticed today, then when i advance (anti clockwise) the cas , my power fc with datalogit reads lower timing, when i retard (clockwise) it reads higher timing... wtf .. is my cas f*ked? or wiring ?

alright im gonna try this out. so far ive tried 0.6 0.7 and 0.8gaps. havent tried 1mm on the iridiums. ill test this out and hope i get the issue resolved.

i got my pulley, and noticed something interesting. all over the internet and included i just got to try out, is actually slightly different on the inside of the gear. everybody else gear seem to have this a more chamferred design compared to mine which is straight up flat. ive searched for hours, and cant find anybody having similar vct gear as mine. i mean wtf right? what are the odds. my gear is the last pic at the bottom

you were right bro... it wasnt the injectors and the afm... would a stuck/jammed vct show same symptoms ? i recently removed the vct solenoid and tried to power it directly with a battery... solenoid ticks actuator closes oil passage... but no change in idle when i do it with the car running. and no power loss at low end with socket disconnected and driving around.

pulled of the intake pulley, noticed in the vct cam gear, small amount of debris, oil inside the gear felt rough. suspect this could have gotten the pulley stuck. got another pulley from a friend on its way. hope this fixes the problem.

not much help eh .. hahah its ok ..ill just keep this post updated in case anyone is facing the same issue. today i got the cam covers off... tried moving the intake manifold but the main bolt(after removing the vct cover plate with spring loaded in) and it was not moving. it was stuck. tomorrow ill be removing the timing belt off, and pull the intake pulley out and have a look.

as that post said, to rotate the cam manually.. i was wondering, if it were to be stuck in advanced.. would it be safe to rotate it anti clockwise (retard) to get it unstuck ? logically im thinking it should be ok.. but dont want wanna be a smartass thought ill check first,

this is what ive gathered so far. taken from

yea mate, im somewhat confident its the issue, but before i go ahead and replace the cam gear, just wanna know if there was anyway i can confirm its stuck inside or something. so that at least ill understand what happened. or what caused it and such. im worried that i replace it and problem lies elsewhere kind of thing. just wanna make sure i get it done right.

VCT Problem Hi guys, I have an issue with power loss at 5.5k rpm onwards, after much troubleshooting im quite certain fault lies at the vct. I disconnected the plug, went for a drive and no changes. Same power at low end...and same power loss at high. I removed solenoid to see if actuator is working and it is. ticks and closes when fed direct 12v. Power fc is sending the signal. So its not the ecu. Now when i put the solenoid back into the head. wired direct 12v into it... it ticks and can feel the actuator moving(vibrates) however no change in idle whatsoever. From what i understand there was suppose to be a noticeable change in idle when the actuator closes. nothing happens. Would this point to the vct cam pulley mechanism being stuck/jammed?

the 6k misfire also happens on idle. maf voltage reads 4.4v just before it misfires it will drop to like 3-3.8 sometimes 2+. and the load point will vary...first it will be like 8k load at 5.6k rpm suddenly it would be at 5k load at 5.9k rpm. would this be an indication that my maf is having problems reading at higher voltage ? as far as i know 5v its when its maxed. From all my data logs, i noticed a common pattern that it all always happens at abt 4.5-4.6v

Ill try that out, for safety reasons ive left the top rich, ill try to get it to the mid 11's and see how she responds.

yea we added more earth straps, and the connection is solid. the voltage of reading from rsm is at abt 13.9-14v . compare to before the battery was moved which was ard 13.4-13.5 ground is the grey wire. and the striped wires are supposidly 12v. i keep reading that people are getting 12v at this wire. the injecors are normally fed 12v from the ign relay ? ill appreciate your help and guidance rather then hints . From the sound of it youre sure that im not sure about something, so why not just teach me rather then make this sort of comments. Im here to learn. If i was so smart and a know it all i wont bother asking.

RB25DET S2 Injector voltage RB25DET S2 Injector voltage need some serious help. car went in for a metal gasket job and ffp install. injector harness was extended, battery moved to the back. On the first day it started, the was a slight miss at idle. and when we hit 5k rpm, it hesitates and misfires, as you release the throttle , it idles like a impreza for a few seconds and then its back to normal. Changed to bcpr7eix and another set of coil packs (wreckers), now the problem is at 6k rpm. taped coils up, applied dielectric grease.... if on 2nd gear at 6k rpm on boost it hesitates and misfires. IF on 3rd or 4th gear at 6k is just feels flat and empty...it just wont go past 6k and holds. you can feel like there is a slight miss-ish but not misfiring, i dont hold it too long that way worried im gonna blow something. During this entire time, afr is at abt low 11's high 10's. timing up top has been set from 21 to 18 to 17 and stll doesnt help. injector duty is at 65%. MAF at abt 4.8v . the airflow load point in the map is at P15 (11k ) TPS been adjusted and this happens at any throttle Voltage it happens. i tried holding it at partial or WOT. so i doubt its the tps. at wot its 4.4v. Batt Voltage reading 13.8~13.9 Im kind of lost and loosing hope here. Car was mint before the job. now it just doesnt want to run right. Things ive checked are also for boost leaks, vacuum leaks, CAS timing (set at 15) crank and cam timing(all on correct markings). The car holds boost just fine, and at lower revs all the way to 5.8k it pulls hard. at 6k it just goes F*&&ed. makes no power whatsoever. I even went to the extent of buying another set of bkr6 0.8mm to try it and its the same thing. Car Spec : RB25DET Stock turbo 3"exh fmic walbro pump fpr 3bar ( no vac) stock coils 0.8bar boost cometic 1.3mm metal gasket power fc with fc edit aem wideband what do you guys think it is ? Wiring issue for the injector harness? battery moved to the back ? if it was injectors, i should be able to detect it on the log right? if it was fuel pump, shouldnt the afr be super lean before or when it happens? if it was maf the voltage should either be maxed out or suddenly drop? Could it be the coil pack harness? Please help. any suggestions or pointers will be great. any troubleshooting ideas . sorry for the lengthy post When i checked voltage for the injectors, i noticed i was barely getting any voltage on the 12v wire, its only abt 0.3-0.5v but on the ground with key on engine off, im getting 12-13v. is this normal? shoulldnt i be getting 12v on both sides with key on ?

RB25DET S2 Injector voltage need some serious help. car went in for a metal gasket job and ffp install. injector harness was extended, battery moved to the back. On the first day it started, the was a slight miss at idle. and when we hit 5k rpm, it hesitates and misfires, as you release the throttle , it idles like a impreza for a few seconds and then its back to normal. Changed to bcpr7eix and another set of coil packs (wreckers), now the problem is at 6k rpm. taped coils up, applied dielectric grease.... if on 2nd gear at 6k rpm on boost it hesitates and misfires. IF on 3rd or 4th gear at 6k is just feels flat and empty...it just wont go past 6k and holds. you can feel like there is a slight miss-ish but not misfiring, i dont hold it too long that way worried im gonna blow something. During this entire time, afr is at abt low 11's high 10's. timing up top has been set from 21 to 18 to 17 and stll doesnt help. injector duty is at 65%. MAF at abt 4.8v . the airflow load point in the map is at P15 (11k ) TPS been adjusted and this happens at any throttle Voltage it happens. i tried holding it at partial or WOT. so i doubt its the tps. at wot its 4.4v. Batt Voltage reading 13.8~13.9 Im kind of lost and loosing hope here. Car was mint before the job. now it just doesnt want to run right. Things ive checked are also for boost leaks, vacuum leaks, CAS timing (set at 15) crank and cam timing(all on correct markings). The car holds boost just fine, and at lower revs all the way to 5.8k it pulls hard. at 6k it just goes F*&&ed. makes no power whatsoever. I even went to the extent of buying another set of bkr6 0.8mm to try it and its the same thing. Car Spec : RB25DET Stock turbo 3"exh fmic walbro pump fpr 3bar ( no vac) stock coils 0.8bar boost cometic 1.3mm metal gasket power fc with fc edit aem wideband what do you guys think it is ? Wiring issue for the injector harness? battery moved to the back ? if it was injectors, i should be able to detect it on the log right? if it was fuel pump, shouldnt the afr be super lean before or when it happens? if it was maf the voltage should either be maxed out or suddenly drop? Could it be the coil pack harness? Please help. any suggestions or pointers will be great. any troubleshooting ideas . sorry for the lengthy post When i checked voltage for the injectors, i noticed i was barely getting any voltage on the 12v wire, its only abt 0.3-0.5v... but on the ground with key on engine off, im getting 12-13v. is this normal? shoulldnt i be getting 12v on both sides with key on ?

if the car was dynotuned, then yeah definitely they should have picked up an fueling issue if it was lean or rich..but since you mentioned the problem comes and goes... perhaps that is why nothing was detected... a bad fuel pump and/or fuel pressure regulator could make the car possibly run lean, maybe that was the case with the old motor melting the piston.