ltjpunk7

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About ltjpunk7

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    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday 02/04/1986

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    Chicago, Illinois, USA

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    Zach

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  1. Didn't really think of the fuel level, so thanks for the heads up! I'm planning on doing oil pump, crank collar, oil pain, head mods, etc all in the next 18 months when money gets a little less tight. But currently the car is in great shape and I'm gettin' the itch to take it to the track. Just want to make sure I don't do anything stupid. But I'll do the above recs and only drive the car at like 7/10s on the track. Won't try to break any records.
  2. Ha you've now told me three times . To tell you the truth though, it's actually pretty damn silent. Currently have the stock turbos and dumps, with a Mine's downpipe, decat pipe, and the HKS Silent.
  3. Ha, well that's what I'm trying to avoid. If I overfill and watch the pressure, should I be fine for track? Or do you think theres another mod that's mandatory pre-track?
  4. Sup mates. So, some updates. Did most of the rebuild in May 2016. Current status is: Whiteline suspension bushings all around Whiteline sway bars Nismo front strut brace BC Racing coilovers Ride height and alignment done pretty close to Gary Cook's specs Whiteline HICAS delete Goodrich braided SS brake lines G-Loc brake pads Z32 brake master cylinder Cosworth intake filter HKS Silent Hi-Power exhaust Mines front pipes Decat pipe All vital fluids and a lot of eroding rubber hoses and fuel lines replaced Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate clutch / lightened flywheel and tranny rebuild with new center plate and synchros in 11/2017 because of synchro and clutch failure. I also have a few random parts at my ouse that I've purchased over the year whenever I got good deals on them. These haven't been installed yet.: Garrett 2860-9 turbos with HKS actuators HPI dump pipes ARP head studs Tomei 1.2 mm head gasket and compete Tomei gasket set Nismo fuel pump So my current status is a well running and reliable car which is plenty of fun on the street. However, I plan to track it in the near future, and am wondering what the next set of mods should be knowing that. I have a new set of wheels and tires, and I've got dedicated track pads and Motul 600, so basic track stuff I've got covered. I'm just wondering if there are any recommended mods I should move to the top of the list for a track car. I would prefer to not have to pull the motor quite yet, so replacing the oil pump or putting a baffle or extension on the sump is not really an option at this time. The list of stuff I have above for the turbos, head, etc I have been holding off on installing because I wanted to wait until I could afford a Haltech ECU, boost solenoid, wideband sensor, etc (and possibly cam gears / cams) and then do all of that at once and tune it. So would you say that overfilling 0.5-1 L of oil is enough for the track? Or am i missing obvious MUST DO mods before track? Oil cooler mandatory? Triple flow cam baffles? Head mods? Injectors? Fuel pump? Or am I good to go as is, just keeping a close eye on my numbers and not killing it during the track day? Sorry for the long post and thanks for any guidance.
  5. I live in the US. Can't text you. Shoot me a PM.
  6. ltjpunk7

    Resurrecting some old posts. But I was under my (new to me) R32 GTR and found the same shocks. Any info on these? I've only driven it around town, but seems to ride well. Haven't put my stress on them. Was planning out a suspension overhaul in near future and shocks/springs vs coilovers was obviously on the list. Wondering if this should affect that decision.
  7. Ok. Yeah I already purchased Redline fluid in preparation for that, I just wanted to make sure this wasn't a bad idea to just replace fluid, or that I should def be doing x y or z. So I'll just sit on it for now. You're right, this car can go from zero to money pit very quickly.
  8. So, another question. After spending more time with the car, not unexpectedly there are some transmission issues. There is a relatively loud whirring noise whenever the clutch is not engaged. Whenever I engage it (push the pedal down) the noise goes away. Is this the throwout bearing or input shaft bearing? Also, there's some minor grinding in third and fifth. Assuming synchros there. My question would be where to go from here. Would it be reasonable to pull the clutch and check out the bearing or with the likely Synchro issues does it make more sense to do them both at the same time? Or should I just replace the clutch given that it has 123,000 km? Or is this all stupid and does it make more sense to try to find a newer gearbox? Appreciate any input. Was about to do a fluid exchange, but figured I'd make a plan first so I'm not just wasting that fluid. Thanks.
  9. Yeah that's my understanding too. But it's kinda crazy that some of the premier companies would make it without the flex, if it was truly that important. But what do I know, I'm just a lowly American getting into the game late. You forgot to say (heh) after hump. Giggity.
  10. Yeah, I think I'll grab the Japspeed flexible decat. Hopefully that gives it enough wiggle room to keep me out of trouble.
  11. Ha I know, you told me in the other thread. But if that's the case, maybe a hi flow cat makes more sense than a decat. My only concern is that if I get the Mines front pipe that there needs to be some sort of flex in the system, which is why I was considering the Japspeed flexible decat.
  12. I believe came in a clear plastic holder. Not sure if it's original. Will try to take pics tonight.
  13. But that one seems to be a universal kit, so I'd still have to buy a new O ring gasket, and anything else? Also, is there such thing as it flowing too freely? Would a 450 LPH be a problem on a stock motor? I have no intentions of ever going E85. Sorry, I'm a fuel system n00b.