ltjpunk7

Didn't really think of the fuel level, so thanks for the heads up! I'm planning on doing oil pump, crank collar, oil pain, head mods, etc all in the next 18 months when money gets a little less tight. But currently the car is in great shape and I'm gettin' the itch to take it to the track. Just want to make sure I don't do anything stupid. But I'll do the above recs and only drive the car at like 7/10s on the track. Won't try to break any records.

Ha you've now told me three times . To tell you the truth though, it's actually pretty damn silent. Currently have the stock turbos and dumps, with a Mine's downpipe, decat pipe, and the HKS Silent.

Ha, well that's what I'm trying to avoid. If I overfill and watch the pressure, should I be fine for track? Or do you think theres another mod that's mandatory pre-track?

I guess no advice...

Sup mates. So, some updates. Did most of the rebuild in May 2016. Current status is: Whiteline suspension bushings all around Whiteline sway bars Nismo front strut brace BC Racing coilovers Ride height and alignment done pretty close to Gary Cook's specs Whiteline HICAS delete Goodrich braided SS brake lines G-Loc brake pads Z32 brake master cylinder Cosworth intake filter HKS Silent Hi-Power exhaust Mines front pipes Decat pipe All vital fluids and a lot of eroding rubber hoses and fuel lines replaced Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate clutch / lightened flywheel and tranny rebuild with new center plate and synchros in 11/2017 because of synchro and clutch failure. I also have a few random parts at my ouse that I've purchased over the year whenever I got good deals on them. These haven't been installed yet.: Garrett 2860-9 turbos with HKS actuators HPI dump pipes ARP head studs Tomei 1.2 mm head gasket and compete Tomei gasket set Nismo fuel pump So my current status is a well running and reliable car which is plenty of fun on the street. However, I plan to track it in the near future, and am wondering what the next set of mods should be knowing that. I have a new set of wheels and tires, and I've got dedicated track pads and Motul 600, so basic track stuff I've got covered. I'm just wondering if there are any recommended mods I should move to the top of the list for a track car. I would prefer to not have to pull the motor quite yet, so replacing the oil pump or putting a baffle or extension on the sump is not really an option at this time. The list of stuff I have above for the turbos, head, etc I have been holding off on installing because I wanted to wait until I could afford a Haltech ECU, boost solenoid, wideband sensor, etc (and possibly cam gears / cams) and then do all of that at once and tune it. So would you say that overfilling 0.5-1 L of oil is enough for the track? Or am i missing obvious MUST DO mods before track? Oil cooler mandatory? Triple flow cam baffles? Head mods? Injectors? Fuel pump? Or am I good to go as is, just keeping a close eye on my numbers and not killing it during the track day? Sorry for the long post and thanks for any guidance.

I live in the US. Can't text you. Shoot me a PM.

Resurrecting some old posts. But I was under my (new to me) R32 GTR and found the same shocks. Any info on these? I've only driven it around town, but seems to ride well. Haven't put my stress on them. Was planning out a suspension overhaul in near future and shocks/springs vs coilovers was obviously on the list. Wondering if this should affect that decision.

Ok. Yeah I already purchased Redline fluid in preparation for that, I just wanted to make sure this wasn't a bad idea to just replace fluid, or that I should def be doing x y or z. So I'll just sit on it for now. You're right, this car can go from zero to money pit very quickly.

So, another question. After spending more time with the car, not unexpectedly there are some transmission issues. There is a relatively loud whirring noise whenever the clutch is not engaged. Whenever I engage it (push the pedal down) the noise goes away. Is this the throwout bearing or input shaft bearing? Also, there's some minor grinding in third and fifth. Assuming synchros there. My question would be where to go from here. Would it be reasonable to pull the clutch and check out the bearing or with the likely Synchro issues does it make more sense to do them both at the same time? Or should I just replace the clutch given that it has 123,000 km? Or is this all stupid and does it make more sense to try to find a newer gearbox? Appreciate any input. Was about to do a fluid exchange, but figured I'd make a plan first so I'm not just wasting that fluid. Thanks.

Yeah that's my understanding too. But it's kinda crazy that some of the premier companies would make it without the flex, if it was truly that important. But what do I know, I'm just a lowly American getting into the game late. You forgot to say (heh) after hump. Giggity.

Here ya go!

Yeah, I think I'll grab the Japspeed flexible decat. Hopefully that gives it enough wiggle room to keep me out of trouble.

Ha I know, you told me in the other thread. But if that's the case, maybe a hi flow cat makes more sense than a decat. My only concern is that if I get the Mines front pipe that there needs to be some sort of flex in the system, which is why I was considering the Japspeed flexible decat.

I believe came in a clear plastic holder. Not sure if it's original. Will try to take pics tonight.

But that one seems to be a universal kit, so I'd still have to buy a new O ring gasket, and anything else? Also, is there such thing as it flowing too freely? Would a 450 LPH be a problem on a stock motor? I have no intentions of ever going E85. Sorry, I'm a fuel system n00b.

Yeah, I'm pricing out the full exhaust now. I want it to be to quiet, as I'm coming from a very loud MINI Cooper S. I picked up the HKS Silent Hi-Power for very cheap. Now working on the front two components. If I was to get the Mines front pipe, would it be wise to get the Japspeed flexible decat since there's no flex join in the Mines pipe? I've heard mixed things about the necessity of the flex in the front pipe. Or would that be too loud, and make more sense to get a high-flow cat? (and if so, any nice budget cats?) Cool. There's some pretty good deals on a Walbro application (example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-Fuel-Pump-For-89-94-Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTR-Turbo-255-/220846675040?hash=item336b7cd460:g:BKEAAOSwQItUKxHq&vxp=mtr),but I was told you really need 276 LPH and the Walbro is 255 LPH. Would this pump be good enough if I was eventually to build the car and push 450-500 whp? Ha, I was prepared for that. To tell you the truth, it's probably not as quick as my MINI was. But my other car is an F30 335xi with a Burger tune, so I've got a quick car to get me through the speed freak moments.

Just got my car and it has one in it too. And a Nissan booklet with all the service records. It's an August 1989 build. Pretty rad.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Plans for the car is to make it a reliable street car that can be used potentially as a daily. I am about to move to a new city for a new job, so the amount of track time I'll get in my new location is up in the air. Which is why I'm not focusing on that currently; but certainly track time will be in its future. It has new UHP t(y)res from the dealer; not great ones, but they'll do for now. As far as what NEEDS to be done currently, brakes are at the top currently. They're shot. Probably going to stick with the Sumitomos for now because I don't want to buy new wheels for a BBK. Will go Brembo blanks and Carbotech pads. I have a little spare cash after the brakes, fluids (all of them, yikes), filters (got a Cosworth panel filter and new oil/fuel filters) from selling the current car, so maybe I'll start with exhaust and fuel pump (anyone know a good deal on one?). I had originally thought of doing the oil pump as the first engine work, but was told it was stupid to do that if it's currently working fine. Mainly because everyone says its stupid to pull the motor and do the oil pump without rebuilding the whole bottom end ($$$). But it seems as though with this current stock setup I have to not rev over 7000 (oil pump) and not boost over 14 (turbos), or choose which I want to fix. Eek! I'm very open to suggestions on all of the above. Don't have as much support in the US as you guys do.

Yeah, I was thinking fuel pump too. I'd like to save money where I can, and trying to find an option cheaper than Nismo or Apex'i. The Deatschwerks 300 looks solid, but they don't make a specific one for R32. Has anyone had success with their universal? Or is there anywhere to buy and OEM pre-filter? I know the injectors would help, but as you well know, this is how the snowball effect happens. I'm trying to decide where to draw the line on this first stage of the build. I'm already going to be out probably $5000 between brakes, suspension, turbos, exhaust, and the million fluids and filters I had to buy. Yikes.

I'm looking for some advice here. I recently imported an R32 to the US. It's bone stock, has no modifications. My goals are to work on the reliability of the car as first priority, and performance as second priority. Besides suspension, brakes, tires, I thought a reasonable place to start would be replacing the turbos. Mainly because I want to avoid any catastrophic failure. I don't have a billion dollars to spend on this project at this moment, so it's going to need to be done in stages. If I was to start with the turbos, what would be the minimum amount of other parts I would need to replace at the same time? I was thinking probably turbos, full turbo back exhaust, plus/minus an ECU. Is this reasonable? Can I get away with stock on all of the other parts if I was to do this with -7 or -9 turbos? Thanks for any guidance!

youright

You're right. Just checked on my phone. Work computer must've been blocking the host site. Thanks. Cheers!

I, too, am going to resurrect an old thread. Same question as ms33, can you check for ceramic/steel exhaust wheel while turbos are mounted? And the photos above are no longer hosted, so if anyone has a picture depicting the 6 vs 12 points he's referring to, that'd be great. Thanks!

If that's the case, what specifications would you recommend? I'm in the US where about 99% of exhaust shops won't even know what kind of car I'm driving. So some direction would be nice rather than spending $$$ on trial and error. Thanks!

I've been reading about all the quiet ones, and it seems as though the GReddy Power Extreme II, Kakimoto Regu 06&R, and the HKS Silent Hi-Power are the top of the heap for quiet. But everyone's opinions on the best one are split (usually people just say the one they have is the best). Seems to me, though, that the the Kaki and GReddy are pretty restrictive. The HKS is 3.75" (95 mm). So it may be the best compromise if silent is the goal but want to be able to build up HP without restricting.