Darrel

@GTSBoy I believe I haven't been introduced to Mike 🤭🤭🤭 Jokes aside, you could be right about that, I'll check resistance of said TPS signal when I can get a mate's help. Cheers for that, mate!

Hi Duncan, yeah you're right, I wouldn't be surprised if I find a few signals out of spec, I'll get to it when time permits. Cheers for that!

Hi guys! Just wanna update everyone, I've found the issue. Climate control system was faulty but totally unrelated to the Attesa fault. The PCB was corroded from the leaking capacitors and caused the erratic function, tried to fix it but no avail so I got a pre-loved unit and that fixed it but Attesa fault still came on. Now the main issue. I noticed that throttle input would prevent the Attesa fault from coming on for example when you hold the gas constant at around 1500 rpm it wouldn't come on. Made me think if it had anything to do with TPS so I checked the TPS voltage at the throttle body. A long while ago when I checked it was about 0.4 almost 0.5 v, I thought it might have gone out of spec but it was exactly where I left it. So I checked the TPS signal at the Attesa CU and I was getting about 0.02, practically nothing. I proceeded to adjust the TPS till I got about 0.8v and checked the signal at the Attesa CU, I got 0.4v. I went for a drive and viola, no fault since then. I consulted Google and apparently it is quite common for the TPS signal to drop out in power FC. I'm not sure why causes this but I suppose the easy fix to this is to install a unity amplifier to repeat the TPS signal to the Attesa CU. Anyway, I hope this helps our mates here facing the same Attesa fault gremlin, I don't know for sure but if it can happen to PFC I think it could happen to stock ECU's too. Hope this helps and cheers for all your input, thank you very much, guys!

@GTSBoy will likely swap those 28 year old caps just to be safe. Not sure what the black stuff on the chip is, could be burnt as you said and likely damaged so will replace it too. Will get this fixed and get the AC harness checked, maybe something went wrong when they removed harness extension. Will update then, cheers!

Hi guys, A bit of an update, gremlin is still at large, checked voltage when the AC triggers the 4WD light, stable at 13.x, no voltage drop or surge. However, I took off the control panel and found some likely culprits causing the AC problems; an IC & a few caps, although I still don't know how it links to the Attesa. I've sent the control panel to a capable electrician, he said it looks promising. Any opinions, guys? Thanks in advance and have a pleasant weekend. Regards, Darrel.

I was thinking that too, which got me thinking if they shared a common earth or supply (of course that doesn't make sense 😅 )

I will try that, might you have a pin out for the Attesa CU?

Thought it might help given the aging/deteriorating cables & connections. Not necessary then? @DuncanI've set my turbo timer to display real time voltage, will monitor and update.

Hi @Duncan, did think of it too and was contemplating a daisy-chain ground cable from the trunk to the engine bay but I didn't notice any lights dimming or engine stuttering etc. I think my turbo timer might have a voltmeter feature though, I'll check and if not I'll install one, thanks for your input!

Hi @GTSBoy, cheers for that, I'm leaning towards an electrical fault in the climate control then cos when I got the car the control panel had been relocated into the glove compartment by the previous owner in Japan, I had it moved back and it's been problem-free for 3 years now, will take a look at it and check the door gears too and update. Cheers mate!

Hi everyone, might be in the wrong section but it is climate control related, I really need help here, searched and searched but turned up nothing, seems this is a new problem. Car in question is a 95 V-spec BCNR33. The climate control recently developed a strange problem; when it is turned on, it will sometimes only blow air to the footwell regardless of changing through the modes/temp/AC on or off. But just let it run and it will eventually blow air to the correct channel selected and switching between modes then becomes normal. Here's the weird thing, as soon as it directs air correctly, it triggers the 4WD/A-LSD lights (same thing if AC on/off). I don't think it's the plastic gears cos there's no abnormal noise, crunching or anything, just the inability to change air direction when required, I suspect an electrical issue, is the climate control system connected to the Attesa somehow? Would sticky air control gears coming free cause a sudden/heavy electrical load to affect the Attesa? Please help, guys, this problem has me stumped! Cheers in advance, guys! Darrel.

Cheers brother, you're a legend, Jeff!

Hi, I could really use some help calibrating my 33 v spec g sensor cos I can't view the photos in the original post so I don't know where to adjust and to measure the output voltages. Attached are photos of my G sensor already removed and exposed. Really hope someone can help, would really appreciate it. Thank you for your time and assistance.

Will keep an eye on it, cheers!

That could very well be it ?

Makes sense, what do you reckon killed the plug? Overheating? Contamination? Fouling? Plugs looked normal across the board, can't figure it out ?

Yes, thought so too, 2 injectors at once is a real coincidence, maybe dirt got past the filter somehow. I was also thinking the stock ECU had been chipped and tuned badly but it appears to be stock. I'll have to monitor this to make sure it doesn't happen again. Oh yeah, after the rebuild it wouldn't boost past 7 psi, felt like it was being held back by something, this was with no boost controller. After driving around like that for 500 k's I installed a manual boost controller to see if I could bring the boost past 5 psi. It did, when pulling in 1st gear it would reach 19 psi, then in 2nd it would cut out at around 11, in 3rd it would barely go past 7 psi again before cutting out. Then it started misfiring intermittently and eventually I permanently had a boxer engine instead of a straight 6. I figured spark blow out but couldn't be plugs cos new BKR7-E11 plugs were put in during the rebuild so must be coilpacks or ignitor or the crumbling coilpack connectors. So put in splitfires, new coilpack connectors and new style ignitor, gapped plugs to 0.8mm, still boxer engine! Checked injector resistance, coilpack signals and everything, eventually found that cylinder 3 wasn't firing. Swapped coilpacks around, still no.3, swapped plugs around, bingo, dead plug...good as new now, doh ??? But something must have caused the new plug to fail, I'm thinking the higher boost damaged the aging coilpack and consequently killed the plug, what do you guys think?

No worries mate! Feels like a GT-R again! Oh yeah, stock turbos upgraded with steel wheel and A/R .60 cold side too ?

Just an update in case you gentlemen (and women) are interested. I found the problem, loss of compression was due to pistons 1, 2 & the squish pad melting & the debris scored the cylinder walls and ruined the rings. Noidea how it could have leaned out only in 1 & 2, apparently cylinder 6 is usually the one that leans out, shame, they were HKS forgies too. Engine has since traveled to Malaysia, been rebuilt with 87mm 9.0:1 cr CP forgies, ACL racing big end & main bearings, HKS metal HG, used head with brass valve guides, injectors serviced and flow tested and power FC going on to be Dyno tuned. Thanks for the help and input, guys, cheers!

Hi Mike, by any chance, could you make a set for sale? Or maybe point me in the direction of the car "mod city" kit? Not looking to spend a fortune on a nismo or greddy kit. Hope you can help, cheers! Regards, Darrel.

Hi Mike, by any chance, could you make a set for sale? Or maybe point me in the direction of the car "mod city" kit? Not looking to spend a fortune on a nismo or greddy kit. Hope you can help, cheers! Regards, Darrel.

Hi mate, the block still available? Cheers

Hi Ben & Bob, Cheers for the reply, I'm located in Melbourne, Victoria, sorry about that, will update my profile. Spun bearing & rod knock was my first hunch although I've never experienced it first had does severe rod knock come on so severely & abruptly and loss of compression? Sorry, just trying to figure it out. I plan to take off the head but as it is my tools are very limited, not being able to get under the car is a huge disadvantage Do you think bent valve? Thanks again, guys, really appreciated & do keep the ideas coming! Regards, Darrel.

Hi everyone. Just a bit of an introduction, My name is Darrel and I’m quite mechanically inclined but new to the GTR scene, just got my car, BCNR33 V Spec about 3 weeks ago and the very same night I got it the engine took a dump on me. What happened was I was cruising around in 60 and 70 kmh zones with a friend and went onto the highway and did a couple of hard pulls (if you can even call it hard, rolling start from 2nd into 3rd gears only and only got up to 140 kmh for 2 seconds unkowingly). Went back onto 70 kmh zone and cruised around for a bit before pulling into a gas station, turned off the engine and the turbo timer started counting down from 1 minute, everything was fine at this point. We decided to go across the road to get some supper and when the engine shut off I started it again, that was when the problem started. Started hearing a loud knocking noise which increases with RPM (depressing clutch does not affect it) from the engine and idling was rough, even stalled as I was backing up out of the parking lot. After a few minutes stopped at the traffic lights the idling and noise got so bad I just pulled off the road. I did not get a video of the sound but my first thoughts were I’d spun a bearing & suffering from rod knock (I’m inclined to say that rod knock this severe doesn’t happen instantly but I could be wrong). So let the car sit for half an hour and checked the oil, it was low, on the L of the dipstick, still suspecting rod knock. Added a liter of oil and started the engine again, struggled to start, same noise, same rough idle, misfiring, stalling & quite a lot of blue smoke from the tail pipe. Gave up and parked the car, towed the car home the next day and have since started taking the engine apart slowly to pinpoint the problem so I can get a rough estimate of the damage cost. After listening more closely, sounds like the knocking is coming from the top of the engine instead of the bottom.What I’ve done and found so far: 1. Checked coolant and engine oil, they have not mixed. 2. Shined a light into all cylinders, did not look like anything (compressor wheel) had been sucked in & chewed up, checked plugs, all fine except for being stained from running rich. 3. Did dry cylinder compression test, all tested 130+ psi from cylinders 6 to 3, cylinders 2 & 1 got 20+ psi (at this point I’m inclined to say bent valves from the noise it makes but could also be blown head gasket but oil and coolant have not mixed). Did wet cylinder compression test on cylinders 1 & 2 went up to 35 psi (could it be blown piston rings which explains blue smoke and misfiring?). 4. opened cam gear covers to check if timing had jumped, found that on IN: 1 tooth retarded & EX: 1 tooth advanced (in addition it has HKS cam gears & EX has been retarded 2 degrees by previous owner). This could cause rough idle & stalling but could it be enough to cause a piston/valve collision? Next course of action is to redo timing & see if it improves. Engine has HKS cam pulleys, Power Enterprise timing belt, & from what I can tell, the engine internals are stock, has a Trust intercooler, brass button clutch (don’t know what make/model yet but it is slipping slightly), turbos look stock, boost increased to 14 psi running on 98 octane BP petrol. It is apparent other things/mods have been done to it by previous owners but they have been removed prior to being imported to Australia last year. I have no experience at all with RB26’s so I really need help here and I really hope everyone in here can lend a helping had to a newcomer to GTR’s & any insight, opinions & experience are welcome & will be much appreciated. Really really hope you guys can help, thank you in advance & have a nice day, cheers!