Jump to content
SAU Community

Fukushima

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    1998 BT1 Sedan
  • Real Name
    Rblyfe

Recent Profile Visitors

657 profile views

Fukushima's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

2

Reputation

  1. Pea shooter exhaust, cam gears retarded, 7psi (or a boost leak), tune with no timing Lots of ways to reduce power for engineering. I drilled a hole in bung I'd used to block blow off valve to create a boost leak and passed wa pits with a setup that made twice the standard power.
  2. Sorry if it wasn't clear but the thread inserts were done with v1 and it doesn't appear to have done all that well. Give me a couple of weeks and I'll see if I can produce photo results. V2 will be going back to rb25 studs in "fresh" block
  3. That's a great place to put it. I might need some sort of cover to keep rubber off though Which valve did you use? I was thinking 30-40psi
  4. That's a great summary! I'll be sure to use it as a checklist. I had a similar catch can setup to simon-r32 including the oil drain to sump I just hadn't plumbed up the vent from the sump to the top of the can. I also had a gated spool sump which leaked and the extra sump capacity didn't seem to make a difference. My preference this time is to use my modified 25 sump and accusump.
  5. Something went wrong with v1 of my 1998 r34 BT1 sedan so I've pulled it to sort it out Specs were: RB30 block and crank (with collar, ARP main studs, oil restrictor etc but no drain drilling) Reimax pump gears, n1 spring in standard rb26 pump N1 water pump ATI balancer "1000hp" Spool rods Ross pistons ARP2000 RB26 head studs* (see note below) tomei 1mm head gasket R32 RB26 head HKS 272 poncams HKS cam gears GT35R, 6boob, turbosmart 50mm wastegate ID2000 injectors, single walbro 460 in the tank was dedicated e85 Vipec v44 plug in with MAC boost control After a couple of hiccups with the build it was all slapped together before Race Wars in 2015 (literally tuned 2 nights before), made ~580hp (430kW) and 700 odd nm on e85 at 21psi Ran it very hard for a year had various issues Fried twin plate (upgraded to OS triple) Boost leaks Oil pressure dropped to less than 1 bar under heavy braking Oil leaks (took the spool sump off an put a 25 sump on) Then the big one - decided to put a bigger turbo on and redo all the piping so I sold the GT35 and front mount off as a kit. Found oil in the coolant so the motor is sitting in a mates workshop at the moment - we will pull it apart and investigate. I suspect using the RB26 studs has caused further issues. The reason it got slapped together in such a hurry was that when the head was put on it the studs stripped the tapped threads out of the block and it all had to come apart for special thread inserts that were meant to hold. Very rough plan from here is to get the head stripped and inspected. If that's all OK it will get rebuilt with new valve guides and shims and I'm considering lower duration but higher lift cams and double springs. I have a spare "virgin" 86mm bore block so I will probably transfer the rotating assembly over with new rings and bearings and use RB25 studs. In terms of oil control this time I will drill out the oil returns in the block, have the head "drain/vent" drain back to the sump instead of a y-piece with the turbo drain and I'll probably put an accusump in the boot. Then I need to purchase and install a turbo kit and upgrade the fuel system and hopefully the vipec can do flex fuel. Aim is to go 800hp/600kw at the rear wheels on ethanol, keep it rego'd so I can drive it to work and pick up my son from daycare one day a week, be able to track it at collie (lots of left hand bends), and be able to drop 4th every now and then (only got to do it a few times last year).
  6. relevant to my interests where did you get the intake manifold from?
×
×
  • Create New...