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About vxsr33

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  1. Still for sale sorry for late reply was overseas and haven't been on the forum.
  2. Hi guys, I've been defected so I need to buy or borrow some stock suspension and stock wheels with rwc tyres asap. If anyone is willing to help me out that would be greatly appreciated. I'm located in western suburbs Melbourne. My number is 0413 103 732 Thanks for looking Sam
  3. Bump price drop $1100. Would consider swapping for some stock wheels with legal tread and cash adjustment my way.
  4. Almost perfect condition 9.5/10 only a tiny amount of rash on 2 of the wheels which is barely noticeable. Have never hit potholes or given the wheels a hard time. Comes on 235 40 17 federal RSR tyres which I would recommend replacing. Perfect specs for non gtr skylines. These wheels are very light and strong, I believe they are around the same weight or even a bit lighter than equivalent spec TE37's. Regretful sale, would love to keep them but I really need the cash at this point in time. $1200 Please call or text Sam, 0413 103 732 Located in tarneit, Melbourne
  5. I'm just trying to find out some further information. Don't know why you won't just answer the questions.
  6. How does the car turn off whilst driving and how often? Will it cut out when coming to a stop or while the car is moving? If you suspect it's a cheap and easy fix changing the fuel filter why don't you change it over yourself?
  7. Wow this build has progressed so much, been following since the beginning. An amazing example of a clean R33 gtst done right. Good stuff [emoji106]
  8. When you close the bonnet the exposed top is sealed up so it's similiar to an airbox. The gap on the side allows colder air from the front bumper area in. I have felt the pod filter side of the heatshield after drives and it has been noticably cooler than the side exposed to the engine. What I've done obviously isn't going to be as effective as a proper CAI but it's better than an exposed pod filter. After all it was just something i did on a lazy arvo and only took 2 hours. If i didn't have a return flow intercooler i would have used the cutout where the intercooler piping goes and some ducting to route fresh air directly to the the pod filter. Cheers for the feedback though, i might look into making a better CAI with some ducting.
  9. Pretty sure I've read conflicting info about the standard airbox being restrictive, but then other people are running 300+kw no problem with the standard airbox so it should be fine. You could always just buy a pod like an apexi power intake and make your own airbox/heatshield out of something like aluminium. That's what i did, cost me around $40 from bunnings from memory. Seems to work well, makes the intake sound better and looks pretty cool imo.
  10. Spoke to chequered tuning about it a while ago (still haven't fixed issue) and they said the only way to fix the issue is to relocate the z32 maf to the cold side of the intake piping, between the intercooler and the throttle body. Has anyone had to do this? [emoji53] Would assume the maf wouldn't last long under boost pressures. I'm still thinking it's an issue with the tune
  11. Flush the cooling system thoroughly, put in fresh coolant and bleed the whole system. The noise could just be the water boiling after the engine has had time to get up to temperature. You should definitely be running coolant anyway to protect against corrosion and increase the boiling temp.
  12. Yep stock ecu, at 10 psi boost it ran with no issues and didn't hit R&R. But my mistake, i had a blitz return flow intercooler not an R34 GTT one.
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