vxsr33

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About vxsr33

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  1. vxsr33

    I'm just trying to find out some further information. Don't know why you won't just answer the questions.
  2. vxsr33

    How does the car turn off whilst driving and how often? Will it cut out when coming to a stop or while the car is moving? If you suspect it's a cheap and easy fix changing the fuel filter why don't you change it over yourself?
  3. vxsr33

    Wow this build has progressed so much, been following since the beginning. An amazing example of a clean R33 gtst done right. Good stuff [emoji106]
  4. When you close the bonnet the exposed top is sealed up so it's similiar to an airbox. The gap on the side allows colder air from the front bumper area in. I have felt the pod filter side of the heatshield after drives and it has been noticably cooler than the side exposed to the engine. What I've done obviously isn't going to be as effective as a proper CAI but it's better than an exposed pod filter. After all it was just something i did on a lazy arvo and only took 2 hours. If i didn't have a return flow intercooler i would have used the cutout where the intercooler piping goes and some ducting to route fresh air directly to the the pod filter. Cheers for the feedback though, i might look into making a better CAI with some ducting.
  5. Pretty sure I've read conflicting info about the standard airbox being restrictive, but then other people are running 300+kw no problem with the standard airbox so it should be fine. You could always just buy a pod like an apexi power intake and make your own airbox/heatshield out of something like aluminium. That's what i did, cost me around $40 from bunnings from memory. Seems to work well, makes the intake sound better and looks pretty cool imo.
  6. It's located in the stock position before the turbo
  7. Spoke to chequered tuning about it a while ago (still haven't fixed issue) and they said the only way to fix the issue is to relocate the z32 maf to the cold side of the intake piping, between the intercooler and the throttle body. Has anyone had to do this? [emoji53] Would assume the maf wouldn't last long under boost pressures. I'm still thinking it's an issue with the tune
  8. vxsr33

    Flush the cooling system thoroughly, put in fresh coolant and bleed the whole system. The noise could just be the water boiling after the engine has had time to get up to temperature. You should definitely be running coolant anyway to protect against corrosion and increase the boiling temp.
  9. vxsr33

    Yep stock ecu, at 10 psi boost it ran with no issues and didn't hit R&R. But my mistake, i had a blitz return flow intercooler not an R34 GTT one.
  10. vxsr33

    For stage 1, why dont you just go: • full 3 inch exhaust • R34 GTT intercooler • Boost T set to safe 10psi • Apexi pod filter (don't think this is necessary) I had my r33 dynoed at 180rwkw (245hp) with these mods. I was under the impression the stock ECU was kept in stage 1 mods.
  11. Wow that was unbelievably quick
  12. Did you only notice the fumes after the exhaust and cat install? I went from a 3 inch highflow cat (unknown what brand, maybe xforce?) to a venom 100cell and the fumes were definitely worse, but mainly when the car is idling in the garage is the only time i can really notice it. I'm assuming a 100cell cat won't do much in terms of reducing nasty emissions. I would just keep the 100 cell cat if i were you, changing cats could also put the tune out of whack. How bad are the fumes? It shouldn't really be noticable at all with normal driving, unless you are moving really slowly in traffic or stationary.
  13. Can confirm you will have no issues with brake clearance with gtst brakes
  14. This thing looks like it would be a heap of fun, would love to take one of these for a spin. Really liking the new 86's, the small changes make them look a lot better. Enkeis are nice, i would go for a 9 inch wide set though, the concave design of the 9inch+ wheels just looks better imo