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About paulzy123

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    r33 gtst auto
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  1. Quick update.. So the car go’s to a show this weekend and I know driving without a decent map could be engine suicide but I’ve had the fuel curve looked at and have been assured that’s it’s safe and there’s so much timing pulled out of it that it won’t det so I’ll trundle down to the show. Took it out this saterday just gone to make sure everything is just so and ended up forgetting that it shouldn’t be thrashed until it’s been looked at properly and gave it the full biscuit... to my surprise it took off like hell in the night, it felt like it did previously, like before I lost the 58hp the only thing I’ve done recently is stop the re circ from the cam covers to the intake and blank off the lines from the plenum to carbon canister (now gone). I’m not complaining but I’d like to know what the hell is going on still, maybe the maf needs a clean? It is third hand so I may try that.... I’m getting it totally looked at early next month, the entire shooting match mechanically and ECU side by somebody that is very familiar with the emu and can spanner as well.... Will report back...
  2. So I got a pal of mine who’s mapped a few Emanage ultimates to plug his lap top into the Emanage to see if there was anything untoward or just to look at the map (it’s just numbers to me) . I was a bit out off at the shock he was in as he said that it was retarded across the entire rev range, also, the afm was selected as a standard afm and not as a z32 one which I have, the injectors were also standard when they should have been selected as 440cc. We took it out with his wide band stuffed up the exhaust 🙈 He said it was really rich, we got back to mine and he tested the lambda sensor, it was “flatlined” so that needs replacing. The only thing that I can confirm is that the brown plug behind the drivers headlight does not lock the timing at 15 degrees when it’s unplugged but does lock the auto box in third as I asked him to measure it. So that is good for mapping on the dyno I guess. So, I’m going to get a new sensor and ask him to have a crack at mapping it. Or at least ask him to take another look. Will report back... 😒 Just for reference its this brown plug 👍
  3. You’re right, the turbo did sound whistley on the drive up to the mapper and doesn’t sound half as bad now. The turbo did over come the leak but at the cost of working harder. Surely it would have build boost differently to if the gasket wasn’t leaking? That’s the best thing about analogue gauges as you can observe fluctuations and trends, digital doesn’t really let you see that unless you are logging...
  4. Really? It was a pretty disgusting sized leak that showed up on the boost leak test... I’ll try n post the vid up...
  5. Hi guys, Firstly, I hope this in the right section and sorry if it’s not.. I’m a bit of a optional extra/rare part conisure for my r33 Gtst auto. I’ve collected a few bits for her now and have just got my hands on some wing mirror eyebrows, the wing mirrors they are still attached to came from a dark coloured skyline as the wing mirrors are what looks like metallic charcoal but the eyelids are darker and almost look black. Were these eyebrows colour coded or were they all black?? Havent much hope anyone will know this but need to ask all the same... Cheers 👍
  6. I want a boost gauge as that would have shown my inlet mani gasket had gone a while back, I also want to watch gearbox oil temp so thinking of getting both as greddy gauges in a pillar pod. I have another sensor in front of the throttle body wired back to a digital meter that’s sat snug in the front of the ash tray which shows inlet temps off boost in summer sits around 20 -25 degrees and at wot it can shoot up but never on the loud pedal long enough for it to show above 40/45 really.. I'm thinking afr would be a good one also but never really needed until this type of thing popped up or if I was trying to map my Emanage myself... Happy Christmas everyone by the way. 👍
  7. Doh!! Yup you are absolutely right, I often see egt gauges for sale and think will their function ever really be needed as if your engine is good then it’s good but in this situation it would be a bloody useful reference... I just don’t want to have a multitude of gauges as I personally think it can get a bit much...
  8. Will crack on with some testing 👍 Never overheats to my knowledge obviously going by the stock temphreture gauge though.. Still on a standard recirc but I have an genuine adjustable greddy one that I can fit if it’s that. All hoses from what I can tell are in good nic .... I’m not there when it’s being mapped ever but last reports were that turning the boost up and advancing the ignition made no difference. I’m fairly confident the brown plug locked the timing at 15 degrees but will need to confirm this... Cheers
  9. Well the car drives fine just low on power, Did a compression test 1-167psi 2-165psi 3-153psi 4-153psi 5-162psi 6-167psi Taking into account I have a 1.1mm head gasket then the compression test looks ok to me. So the quest continues to find where my 58hp has gone....
  10. The car was mapped with the brown plug behind the headlight removed to lock it into third. Does this also lock the timing does anybody know? I’ve had conflicting reports. Just got home from work so will take the car out with the brown plug back in and see how it performs as although cold it’s dry. Scared what I might find Saturday with a compression test if I’m honest ...
  11. So the brown plug was unplugged still as suspected, I got it plugged back in and it sorted it... Couldn’t do the tests on the car in the end as my mates laptop was playing up, looking like next weekend now.
  12. Ok cool, well that’s something I need to get sorted and will do but will go the blitz return flow route as don’t want to cut anything 👍 Right now I’ve got bigger problems as I just picked the car up and it’s locked in third, I told him about the brown plug behind the headlight that if you disconnect it the car locks into third so he could dyno it but its still in third now 😳 Will have a good look at it tomorrow as it pouring with rain, dark and about 2 degrees outside - typical English weather..... Thanks for the responses guys 👍 Think I'm going to get it unlocked from third first thing. I’m just hoping the brown plug is discconnected as if it’s not then it’s locked in third permanent 🙈
  13. Will do!!! A side mount is where I want to stay ( I spent nearly a year reading up on air flow..) , I read up that a standard Toyota supra would flow at least 400... they have just released a side mount that will meet 500 so I wil get one if things are hindered .. It’s going to have a compression test I the morning . Cheers Bob speak shortly 👍
  14. Hi, So I paid up today and got my keys back, collecting tomorrow, afr’s are the same as last December as is the way it builds boost. He said he is stumped ...and the thing is I know the guy isn’t a bulls**ter. Also said compression “feels good” hmmmm .. I do really respect the guy and he is probably one of the best (if not the best) mappers for rb’s in the uk. I want to protect his anonymity because he is good and people always judge but I’m a little lost with it. I’ve compared graphs from last year and now, the car has done 900 miles approx since last December but I got the sheets back and they are showing 290 hp at the fly, last year showed 348 hp. I have a walbro 255lph pump so should be fine and not running out of puff.. I really want to go rb25/30 but Rb 30’s over here are like hens teeth..no.. hens wisdom teeth.. Im going to do a compression test and see where things are on that front. Pressure drop across the Intercooler? It’s a side mount (big Toyota supra one as don’t want to cut the bumper around and will support 450 apparently) but old, maybe it could have degraded since last year but I doubt it... So, I pick it up tomorrow ... Thanks for getting back to me. Anything else it could be? Cheers Paul
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