ggub

Turbine A/R is calculated using the inlet area, not the exducer area. So the A/R remains the same when high flowing.

I've recently removed mine. As mentioned if you can twist them to get them moving they come out pretty easy after that. If you're having trouble, stick something like a screwdriver or socket extension through the hole to use as a moment arm to get them spinning around. Also as mentioned, many companies make press-in adapter fittings like so: https://raceworks.com.au/fittings/adapters/an-rocker-cover-breather-adapters/

In case someone comes across this thread in the future looking for the same/similar info: Raceworks part number RWF-809-02SS is too long and you can't connect the factory loom back onto the factory sensor.

True. You are right that I'd take it easy until things are warm regardless of whether I retain the heater. In my searching through the forums prior to starting this thread I feel like I saw someone say that they had experienced much longer warm up times after the deletion of their heater but I can't seem to find it again. Either way I suppose that's only one anecdotal account. I too like the idea of the relocator kit, especially since the factory location is a bit messy during oil changes. I much prefer cars doin them on cars with upside down filters that have no other bits between the filter and the ground. As I said, the only thing that concerns me is whether the heater delete is a worthy trade-off. Good point regarding clearance around the filter with the addition of a sandwich plate. I hadn't considered that. For context, my primary aim is to measure oil pressure for the purposes of engine protection. I just figured that it was probably worth chucking in oil temperature if I'm going to the effort of adding a bunch of other sensors to the engine when I install my Haltech.

I had actually been considering that relocation kit but wasn't sure if it was adding unnecessary complication and cost since I didn't have any plans to install an oil cooler. It's also my understanding that this would delete the oil warmer, which seems like a good thing to retain for getting things up to temperature as quickly as possible (Canberra winter mornings are cold!). The warmer setup looks to be the same on the RB25 but I can't tell from the outside whether the filter or the warmer is getting oil first. If this diagram is to be believed, the warmer is getting flow first (on the RB26 at least):

Admittedly I'm not that familiar with the how the factory system works. Is the filter before or after the interwarmer? Is this sort of thing suitable? https://www.mishimoto.com.au/oil-plate-sandwich-adapter.html

I was wondering about whether a T piece would have sufficient circulation for reading temperature accurately. With that in mind, would a sandwich plate be preferable for measuring temperature, or should the sensor be located elsewhere on the block because of the cooler/heat exchanger thing?

Dope. Thanks for you responses everyone.

Cheers. Is this the sort of thing we're talking?

Sweet, seems like remote mount shouldn't be necessary then and T-piece seems like it would probably be the easiest. If I go that route, a quick google says the thread is 1/8 BSP. Is that correct?

This is exactly what came to mind when I first saw the suggestion of remote mounting on parts suppliers' websites. I asked Haltech support and they said vibration can damage the diaphragm inside the sensor 🤷‍♂️ Part of my motivation for posting was to see if anyone had experienced failures from direct mounting.

Hi everyone, Just wondering what’s the preferred method for installing aftermarket oil pressure and temperature sensors on a stock r33 gtst oil system (ie no aftermarket cooler, no filter relocate, factory coolant/oil heat exchanger is intact). The most straight forward way would seem to be with a sandwich plate between the filter and block, but I’m led to believe that pressure sensors may be prone to failure from vibration when mounted directly to the block. The next simplest looks to be remote mounting sensors with an extension line. In that configuration the oil and, depending on how it’s oriented, air in the line would be static so I assume this won’t work for temperature, but I assume it’s fine for that to be directly into the sandwich plate. For the pressure sensor, does is matter if there’s air between the pressure sensor and the oil? Static pressure is static pressure, but my gut feeling is that direct contact with the oil would be preferable to having something compressible in between. Or perhaps there’s an easier way that I’m missing. Interested to hear people’s thoughts. Cheers

No idea, but I'd be surprised (from a manufacturing cost point of view) if they were different. It might be worth seeing if you can compare part/subassembly numbers on Amayama to see if they differ.

Is this the part you're looking for? https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/6864015u00

R33 gtst - it's on the side of the ABS pump and has three plugs going into it. I don't know what the part number for your car would be - I got mine from Kudos Motorsport.