r32GTSTI6

Ebay™ Cheapo build part 2: Rb25det S1 200,000kms and low compression 120-130psi average, had a blown headgasket never fixed it, just put headgasket stop leak in it over a year ago - $650 off ebay ebay no name 740cc injectors - $180 ebay walbro 460 - $150 r32 gtr intercooler - $100 ebay electronic boost controller 'd2power' - $80 2nd hand nistune ecu $250 + feature pack $55 hypergear 21u g3 highflow - $950 Very happy with full boost coming on at 3700rpm. Was using the stock 7psi actuator so the maxed out boost controller was only giving us 17psi. With vct and e85 the power comes on hard as. Blue line is e85 (actually around e65)

Oh ok well if im correct (long shot) that means there should be no problem leaving it how it is? Other than obviously two relays which can fail.

But it cant be because the original fuel positive is the white and purple wire which went to the tophat and connected direct to the fuel pump positive. Are you saying that the original power wire is now acting as a switch to turn on the relay or is it acting as the power source for the pump ? Because if it is acting as the power source for the pump wont it be too small to hold the amps that a walbro 460 (what I have just installed) would draw?

My pin 86 is the yellow and black wire (r32 gtst)

Ok I just went out and rechecked my relay and this photo is EXACTLY how I have wired mine in: Everything is working with it wired exactly in this diagram but how!? Pin 86 isnt a +12v like it says in the diagram so how is the relay getting a signal to turn on? Basically im asking if its safe to keep driving or am I going to go up in flames

I did pin 86 to the ecu switch to turn the relay on and it works now. I think the bulkhead was shorting to the fuel cradle because i didnt drill the hole enough. Are you sure pin 87 is wrong though? Even the guide I found on sau had 87 as the power wire for the pump

So i rewired my fuel pump with a relay and it works only when the ground off the tophat is disconnected (the one in the pic) but then my fuel gauge doesnt work. When that ground is grounded the fuel gauge works but it just blows the fuse that goes between the battery and relay. I have wired the relay according to the diagram in pic 2. What is wrong? ive checked all the pins about 5 times and theyre exactly how every diagram ive looked at says to do it. Maybe the fuel pump is shorting to the pump cradle or maybe ring terminals on the inside of the tophat are shorting against the cradle?

yeah but sometimes it goes away completely Thats what I thought but it still makes the sound evven with the timing cover on 20180526_154241.mp4

20180616_190537.mp4

-El Cheapo Budget Build- Rb25det S1 with supposed '190,000kms' bought off ebay for $650 ebay 555cc injectors $300 ebay 'maxpeedingrods' 53mm bolt on turbo $200 second hand GTR intercooler $100 ebay ffp $300 second hand splitfire coilpacks $200 ebay boost controller $35 Nistune rb20 ecu $250 Engine had a huge exhaust manifold leak because I reused my rb20 exhaust manifold gasket like a cheap ass. Also the boost controller would spike to 17 psi and then drop to 14 psi and would fluctuate up and down. Tuner couldn't turn the boost up anymore. Gonna get a good boost controller and shoot for for 220kw. 212kw on 14 psi caltex 98

For all the people who want the pics from the rb26.net site which is now taken down. https://web.archive.org/web/20170212022106/http://rb26.net/index.php/guides/3-installing-a-greddy-style-plenum-into-a-rb25det Better yet I have attached the actual html file. Good luck Installing a Greddy style intake plenum into a RB25DET.html

Awesome, thanks

will i die if I drive it? Ive got a booking to get a clutch installed in a few days

Noticed this crack in the frame rail, at the back of the car, doesnt look like a high stress area but im no expert. What do you guys think? Repair or scrap the car? It would be a shame since the car still perfect everywhere else, maybe I can get it repaired?