2_Liter_Turbo

Has anyone mated a G30-770 to an SR20 and has put it to test yet? A G30-900? Doing research for my own road race / time attack RWD SR20VET project. My road race class limits me to about 500rwhp, but time attack class it's unlimited. I'm trying to find a turbocharger that gives me the ability to limit power but carry it through a wide powerband as well as letting it loose for time attack as much as it will give. Another turbo I was looking into was the EFR8474, but I was hoping to get some real world data/experience as all I have at the moment is paper and limited internet data. I have both N1 cams and Kelford 184-ST cams at my disposal. Head has full port and chamber work, larger valves, and hypertune manifold w/ Bosch DBW. Bottom end is not built yet, but I am heading toward a long rod 2.0L currently (considering 10:1 compression), but things may change in the future. Currently on AEM Infinity and tuning for E85.

Very nice! That's respectable!

Welcome. Not a lot of activity in the US section (I don't check it often), but always good to see more cars! Interesting color on the '32, did you paint it that color or did you buy it already done?

Thank you! It will take me a couple days to get everything updated, but I will post back in here. I appreciate it!

I know I haven't done any updates recently, car is down and waiting on a few parts, but I did get a brand new OEM cylinder head for the N1 engine build! Hoping to get the parts in soon, then I will have a more substantial update (with work done, not just parts coming in, ha ha).

My build thread is full of photobucket images. I have 3 months to migrate them, so I wanted to get started on all the forums. I went to re-link the images in my build thread and I can't find anyway to edit the posts to do so. Is it locked out? I would hate to have to start a new thread because the images will be missing in three months.

Had another question, figured I'd add to my existing thread rather than start a new one! Does anyone have pictures of how far the piston comes down in relation to the cylinder walls? I want to see if how much (if any) of the skirt gets exposed from the sleeve before going back up the cylinder. After stroker kits obviously, not the factory setups.

That's good to know!

Yeah, those are my thoughts as well. I was mostly curious if there was a different casting that had better cooling features or not.

I've been doing research on cylinder head tech lately, and most of the info I find is either spotty or conflicting, ha ha. Any solid tech resources available for my reading pleasure? The specific question I have at the moment involves which blank canvas to start with. I've read that the R34 NUR heads had some differences in water jackets for better cooling and air flow is a bit improved, but I can't find any definitive proof of that, or even an OEM part number other than the standard (11040-05U00). I've been thinking of ordering a new cylinder head to mate with my new N1 block (Planning on doing a Nitto 2.8 build), but I wanted to make sure I start out with the best OE head option possible (that's still available) before sending it off for machine work. Is there a different head available that's better? Or is it just internet lore and every RB26 has the same standard base cylinder head?

My favorite OEM R32 color is TH1 as well. Which is why I waited FOREVER until I was able to find one before buying my GTR, ha ha.

Ahh, interesting. I heard that some '94s came with a smooth painted lip, but if it was textured, it came black or gray OEM. This one is definitely a lighter gray, the picture makes it look darker than it really is.

Found a brand new OEM Nissan front bumper and lip for a pretty good deal! My bumper and lip have some flaws that I didn't want to address when I get the car re-painted (factory color), so I picked these up instead. I've seen some other TH1 GTR's with a gray/black lip and I thought it looked pretty good, but I'm not totally sure if I want to go that route or paint it body color like my current lip. Did they always come body color from the factory? I'm open for discussion there.

I intend to! I already have their EFR 7163 kit for my SR that I picked up in person They are about 25 minutes from my house, ha ha!

Goals are for a high powered super fun street car. I may go to the drag strip once in awhile, but I am not after any records or competition. I road race my S14, so I have enough "race car" to keep me happy, ha ha. I just want a fun street car again. I am thinking of doing a single Borg Warner EFR 8374. But maybe an EFR 9174. I'd like to find what sort of powerbands people are getting with those on RB's before finally deciding.

Know by chance which brand it was? I'd expect to hear BC, knowing their reputation for poor quality SR stuff (I've been doing SRs since '05, so I have more experience with them, RBs I'm new to, lol).

If I didn't live in the desert, I'd be very interested! These are pretty cool! Good luck with the sale!

Awesome, that's good to hear!

Is this your own car by chance? If so, how long/many miles have you had it?

I would suspect the ones coming from Alibaba would be free of Nitto's/Spool's quality control (so possibly the rejected ones), so I'd steer clear of those! The factory's will do anything they can to make back what they can on rejected parts.

RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality I've been searching for hours, and I probably still missed some good info, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for. So I have a new bare N1 block. I want to do a 2.8 kit for my BNR32. I don't want to get into an RB26 Stroker vs RD28 or RB30 argument here, lol, I have my reasons for going the route I am, and would rather focus on the info I am after. I mainly want to hear from people who have ran any stroker kit such as Nitto, Spool, JUN, Tomei, HKS, Etc (with mileage & power numbers if possible) their experiences in terms of driveability, power delivery (obviously dependent on turbos as well), and most importantly, reliability over time. I've been leaning towards Nitto, because I want to keep as long as a connecting rod as possible (I think the Spool 2.8 kit also has the factory length rod as well vs a shorter rod like the Tomei kit for example), for things such as increased dwell, decreased piston speed and side loading. I've read that Nitto (and Spool) outsource some of the parts (the crank itself I believe) to China, which isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but it does leave me a little hesitant. With that said, I know the majority of "Japanese Brands" also outsource their manufacturing (primarily to Taiwan in my experience). It all really comes down to quality control, which is why I'd like to hear from owners of said stroker kits and engine builders who've installed various brands on their experiences.

Acquired a brand new N1 RB26DETT engine block from a friend of mine yesterday. It's the start to a very long road, lol. It'll sit for awhile, but I'm still pretty pumped about it! I haven't fully decided yet, but I've been eyeing the Nitto 2.8L 86.5mm bore stroker kit. The main reasons why I like the Nitto kit is that they retain the factory length rod (they move the wrist pin up) which reduces piston speeds (helps retain RPM characteristics of the RB26), decreases the rod angle (less friction and stress going sideways against the cylinder walls), and increases the dwell time (lets stuff burn more completely at high RPM), and you get a nice billet crank. Plus, the Australians are crazy, and I like crazy!

Same here! It's definitely my favorite standard color for the GTR.

Thanks man! Sucks about the app image problem Wonder if it is related to the photo hosting sites or the forum software?

Went out with the local group of R32 dudes today for a BBQ meet. After everyone left, I took a few solo pictures because it was a cool spot. So here they are, lol.