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About DatsunBanana

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    R34 GT+t Auto
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  1. If you've got an R34 non-turbo then you can fit brakes from other models but you have to do caliper and discs together unless you have some sort of bracket to change the distance of the caliper from the disc. I would also be inclined to do a full set not just rears as mentioned above. I swapped out the smaller discs and slider style calipers on my R34 GT for a full set from an R32 GTR. Most (maybe all) R34 non-turbo models will have a 14mm bolt and therefore a 14mm hole in the mounting. If you swap for brakes from an R32 or R33 they'll have a 12mm bolt you'll and will have a 12mm thread in the caliper. You keep the 12mm bolt and just put a stainless steel sleeve in the mounting hole (14mm outside diameter with a 1mm wall thickness). The mounting hole centres line up perfectly. Braided lines would be sensible too. I haven't had any braking problems or hydraulic imbalance but some say to change the master cylinder as well to match the bias needed for the brakes you use. You also have to cut the lip off the backplate/dust-shield or change them for bigger ones to match the discs you use. I cut mine. If you use brake lines with banjos then you may need to cut the banjo bolt a little shorter.
  2. Are these the same for the 124 pin ECU on an R34 too?
  3. Shane Lynch (of Boyzone) drifted a VH45DETT for Japspeed a few years ago over here.
  4. It's this on my 25DE NEO - Highlighted on the page here if you click the link ... https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3951-rb25de/engine/165/16523P/ Click it on the picture to find part number 144655L300 As far as I can tell it's got the same part number for RB20DE Laurels but just to be sure, try and find the exact one in the EPC database for your model starting here ... https://nissan.epc-data.com/laurel/ From memory it's soft rubbery plastic and has a flange on one end so it doesn't disappear into the airbox. So not quite the same as a rubber connector but if you want to improvise then something like self-amalgamating hose repair tape wrapped around the TB might do it. Or even a couple of turns of duct tape - anything to create a soft seal.
  5. Couple of times I've had the circlip on the turbo actuator arm fall off and the actuator disconnect. First time it was on a CA18DET and ran absolutely gutless. It's also happened on my RB25DE (with turbo conversion) but wasn't as bad cos the compression is higher so just felt like it was running non-turbo again.
  6. I had code 21 on my R34 (non-turbo) and a lumpy idle. It ran fairly well while driving though. I can only speak as I found but changing the coil packs fixed it. O2 sensor should be swinging between higher and lower values. Recently I had to change my sensor as it was stuck on a single value and failed the emissions tests we have here in the UK.
  7. Or you can take on board the different opinions and decide what works for you. There's nothing wrong with a +t but there is already a lot of info on here so check all that out and get a project thread going if you decide to do it. I wanted the challenge of a project but the cost of a turbo engine in the UK was beyond my budget and I didn't want the hassle of selling mine to buy another. Keep in mind there's more to it than just the engine upgrades. At least brakes, hopefully suspension, maybe gearbox depending on power. If you do a +t it'll drive different than a GTT (not a bad thing just different) and have a lower power potential. Dropping in the turbo engine would be cool and a nice project. There'll be all sorts of advice - some of it might even be from people who actually did what they're suggesting 🙂
  8. Or do you mean putting that turbo and intercooler on it? Go for it! A few on here have done it. Mine's been +t for over a year now and I love it.
  9. Someone else had a similar problem here though no solution was ever posted ... http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/21-tuning-technical-questions/144927-help-r34-speedo-not-working-after-rb25det-neo-conversion.html Bit of a different situation than yours but I've bolted a turbo and supporting mods on to my auto GT and now running a GTT manual ecu in there. Speedo works fine. I don't know why yours doesn't after swapping the whole engine.
  10. Hi, does anyone know if it's possible to use an R34 RB25DE torque converter on an R33 RB25DET? Housing part numbers are the same so I'm guessing the parts will physically bolt on to flywheel and that the splines will fit the propshaft? But what about the stall speed and handling the power? If anyone's done it would be great to know if it was successful. Thanks.
  11. I don't think anyone's pointed out yet that the power you can get from a genuine DET will always be more and easier than from a DE+t. So if you have a particular power figure in mind you might only have one choice really. I've done the DE+t and the sense of satisfaction is pretty awesome. I'd have had to wait a lot longer to buy a GTT and the moment might have just slipped away. Keep saving and watch the prices rise. My budget would probably have got me a GTST at the time but I wanted the R34. It might have been non-turbo for a few years but at least I was driving it. I gradually did the supporting mods - brakes, suspension etc. before the turbo conversion. If you're ok with spanners it's not hard, not particularly time consuming and not that expensive if you're patient about looking for good deals.
  12. Try the thread here. Links are still working - http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/21-tuning-technical-questions/143203-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-service-manuals-links.html
  13. It is a vacuum canister. I removed mine for a de+t conversion. If I remember correctly vacuum came from the inlet plenum to this and then out again to the variable air intake butterfly valve solenoid. Another pipe goes from the solenoid to the butterfly actuator. I diverted the plenum take-off to my boost gauge instead. And I disconnected all the tubes from the solenoid. So this was redundant for me.
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