Clintox

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R32-Skyline-billet-radiator-mounts/233198261059

So I passed pits again and got the GTR registered in Tassy, so now I can start removing some of the standard parts. Im running a Haltech which uses a mix of speed density/alpha N(TPS) which means I do not need the Air flow meters so decided to make some new stainless pipes and delete the MAF's I do plan to do the intercooler to manifold pipe so it matches. I also made up some new radiator mounts But decided to try out another pair anodized in red. Think I like it much better and ties into the body color. Ive also picked up a pair of near new -7's to replace the stock turbos so I can turn the boost up abit! as well as some adjustable cam gears to dial in some more down low power. But I need to replace the clutch first as the current one already slips if you dump the clutch! Think I need a better radiator also as it gets abit hot when going up hills and you can hear it boiling after I shut the engine down sometimes.

Hey guys, Has anyone else fitted a JJR Hood Damper kit? https://justjap.com/catalog/product/view/id/23806/s/jjr-bonnet-damper-gas-strut-nissan-skyline-r32/ I got a set recently and fitted to my R32 GTR but it seems like the Struts hit somewhere as you close the bonnet... The bonnet does close but now the rear of the bonnet is sitting about 10mm high at the back. OEM GTR bonnet. hinges and fenders.

So was just playing around with my CNC and made myself a billet GTR radiator cap

Nice 600km round trip on the weekend up to the north of Tassie, checking out cradle mountain.

Finally got around to double checking this the other day and they are definitely the same offset front and back +15 (checked the marking on the wheels and measured them as well. So seems something fishy is going on :S Definately has Alloy GTR front guards. As far as I know its 32 front and rear subframe.. What can I use to confirm the subframes are R32?

Ok so long time between updates! Went to the local cars and coffee and the skyline guys met up first, was surprised to see so many 32 GTR's in Hobart Was ready to take the wrap off so did a photoshoot with a local Photographer who specializes in cars, Mrs got a big one framed for me And then the wrap came off! GTR_Small.mp4 Still kept the road trips up about the place. More recently I got a set of GKTech adjustable arms for the rear, also got their new front upper arm but yet to fit. I finally found a set of side skirts that I like, I never liked how the stock skirts are not all that much lower then the sills and the front bumper is alot lower, these are JSAI "TBO Style" and sit the same height as the front bumper lip, also got a pair of their rear pods. had to set up a temporary spray booth in one of my sheds, worked OK but still got alot of shit in the paint, miss my old booth. Not had a chance to get out and get some good pics with the skirts/pods but here is one out front of the workshop

Hey guys, so I have 18x10 +15 wheels on my R32 GTR, The fronts sit pretty flush with the guards but the rears stick out about 15mm Do 32R's require different offsets front and back or is something fishy going on?

Tiny update... Got bored the other day and dont use my lathe as much as I would like to so looked for a little project to mess about with and came up with this: Matches nicely with the Gauge surround being bare alloy for now too.. I don't actually use a cigarette lighter so thinking of stripping the guts out of a USB charger and putting it inside this so I can actually use it. Also picked up these from ebay, not bad for the price... Thinking of welding on some bits to the side just to make them look abit more beefy, do the job fine tho. And here is a pic of the engine bay just because I dont think Ive posted one before... mainly as its the worst part of the car, But I dont want to paint it until Im happy with the mods (single turbo etc) that way I dont have to stress about paint too much while working on it.

Haha, The engine runs clockwise no matter what gear you are in... Oil pressure would not be effected at all. If you had of taking your foot off the clutch then best case scenario the engine stalls and you come to a abrupt stop... worst case something may have broken from the shock load.. But you didn't so nothing to worry about at all.

Used to be when I lived in Perth... Had my own business, just do my own stuff now mostly. Can check out the facebook page I made for myself to see some of the other stuff Ive done: https://www.facebook.com/WOTRaceandFab/

Haha thats gold Steve, yeh have been to Salamanca with the GTR a few times.

Went for abit of a day trip yesterday, Nice 300km+ round trip to Gordan dam which had some excellent twisty roads through the mountains, Was abit cautious on the way out with the roads being very wet but on the way back they had dried up enough to instill enough confidence to have some real fun

The stock sensor is M12x1.25, My Gauge sensor was 1/8npt but I had an adaptor that goes onto the sensor from 1/8npt to 1/4npt so I drilled out the M12 thread and tapped it to 1/4. Conversely when I was fitting the Oil Temp sensor for my gauge I didnt want to do the same and drill and tap the motor to suit and risk having swarf in the oil (wasnt that worried with the coolant) So I used a larger adaptor from 1/8" npt to 1/2"npt and used my lathe to turn down the OD and then cut a M12x1.25 thread onto the adaptor and it screwed straight in

Cheers Josh... There are billet ones available for a decent price, But this only cost me abit of time and I made it so Im happy. Finished the battery in boot conversion: I used one of these power distribution posts from Jaycar: Fitted it just off to the side of the fuse box (circled red) ran the cable from the battery to there then just connected all the cables that used to run to the battery to that (not 100% happy with it, cables look a little messy so might have to remake the cables from scratch. Just put a rubber grommet and vac cap over it for now... will look for a better cover tho. Heaps of room for me to make a custom overflow/catchcan combo now. I got 3 Innovative motorsports MTX-D dual function digital gauges a little while ago... turned out side by side there was not enough space to fit them in the gap of the center console, So had to get a little creative and recess the guages and they juuuust fit. Bolts in place of the factory gauges. From left to right is #1 Exhaust Gas Temperature, #2 Oil temp (outer ring) Oil pressure (Digital Number) #3 Battery Volts (outer ring) Water Temp (digital number) Was planning to paint the guage face plate black, but sorta liking the brushed alloy look for now... Since im using a Haltech Wide band o2 which is fitted just after where the exhausts from both turbos Merge, to fit the EGT probe I simply drilled a hole in a O2 sensor bung and welded the EGT mount in that and it bolted straight in place of where the stock o2 sensor goes on the front turbo dump pipe. Saved me from having to try remove one of the dumps which would have been a major PITA... Once I convert to single Turbo it will be places Pre-Turbo. The gauge mount plates are decent but made by hand so measurements are off half a mm here and there and the Chamfer was done by hand so certainly isnt spot on. But was good for a prototype to make sure it all fits up and works properly. So I made some CAD drawings ill send off to be Laser cut in the new year Hmm what to do next...

Im just fitting some gauges now, I removing the stock sender that runs to the dash gauge (as its useless) and going to drill and tap the hole to suit my gauges sender... Make sure you keep the stock sensor for the ecu tho (2 wire)

Where did you get the window retainers from? ive only seen them for like $13-1400.00!

Started relocating the battery in the boot to make way for some custom tanks. Ran the cable under the car along with the fuel/brake lines safely out of the way inside some split lock conduit, Comes up into the boot through a cable gland. Mounted the battery isolation switch here. (need to get some shorter bolts) Made up a battery mount for my Odyssey Battery (have allowed for some 3mm closed cell foam to fill in the gaps around the battery and under it) Thats where im up to so far, Battery will be mounted here. Just need to secure that, terminate the cables and she will be good to go.

Ok so waiting for some supplies to build some other stuff but was bored today and I enjoyed making the lobster/segmented section the other day so decided to some more. P.S. The wrap will be coming off shortly

Contacted the bloke I got the rack bushes from... Was HFM https://www.hfm.parts/shop/under-the-hood/nissan-rack-pinion-solid-mount-kit-silvia-skyline/

Double post *delete*

Mmm lobster... I got the solid rack bushes second hand (unused) Josh...For the life of me cant remember the brand. was BMK or BMR or something like that, They had a website because I checked it out when I bought these but google isnt coming up with anything.

Small update, I bought myself a early x-mass present in the form of a Whiteline adjustable front & rear swaybar kit New Vs Old (had already fit the front one before I took a pic) Rear Fitted: (underbody still filthy from the road trip) Front fitted: Also picked up and fit a set of solid steering rack mounts: Last not least, the exhaust system had two mufflers... which was great for passing pits and not annoying the gray nomads at the caravan parks while on the road trip but decided to delete the center muffler hoping for abit more of a note. Section comparison: Didn't have any bends and since it was only one decided to just lobster it: Idle was noticeably louder and deeper as expected, Is noticeably louder while driving but surprisingly not all that much. Only been around the block a few times so cant comment on the swaybars/steering rack bushes just yet... Will take it out to some twisties tomorrow

Look 100x better, 100000x easier to change/upgrade injectors, easier to change spark plugs... little bit of stuffing around to convert but nothing major. Much shorter inlet path. Would be interesting to see if someone has done a back to back comparison on a near stock motor with no changes other then the intake... When I did it I changed injectors and turbo at the same time so cant really compare

So my gearbox wasnt doing so well, 1st Gear was terribly hard to engage even at a complete stop and If I tried to shift into 4th or 5th gear at anything other then grandma speeds she would crunch crunch... even worse at higher RPM. So abit of research many people recommended "Redline Shockproof gear oil" Now I had recently replaced the oil with some Penrite stuff not too long after getting it licensed and even added some additive (cant remember what it was but supposedly gave smoother shifts etc) so I was a little sceptical that the Redline stuff could be that much better. Oh how wrong I was... Took it for a fang and not even the slightest crunch! 1st gear is even easy to engage! this stuff is truly Magic!