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spudtatoe

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About spudtatoe

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DE
  • Birthday November 18

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    S2 Stagea RS-V
  • Real Name
    Nathan

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  1. Got it all sorted.. shop over here verified the base timing then set cam timing, also lowered the idle so now it's at 650rpm with no issues. Gives me peace of mind.
  2. Haha one thing that I've learnt from reading all this is to get a timing light and the timing checked properly.. I've been trying to figure out what plug the tps is on the NEO but can't seem to find it. Only the suggestion it's the brown one which I don't believe it to be on the NEO. Another thing is that when mentioning adjusting idle, that's via the screw on the iac correct? Cheers fam.
  3. I moved the cas so it was 99% where it was before, where it is in the photo is how it sits as we speak. Tiny bit more to the right (advanced?) than the middle. now the IAC idle adjust is set so its about 700rpm.. thats the lowest I can sorta put it without the car not wanting to keep running when started. At some point in my combination of adjusting the idle and cas I had it at say 14 degrees but it was jumping all over the place and would stay still at idle, and then i believe the car wouldn't stay running. How ive got it now seems okay - though now it seems like its a bit higher with about 50degrees timing when driving at certain throttle positions, as in ill be with a constant foot and it will be around that. Pretty damn unsure on if I should try adjust it more or just drive the 1400km with it like this.
  4. Right cheers, I’ll get the timing checked and confirm that base timing is correct then I guess adjust cas from there. I’d say you’re correct about the iac being bottomed out, at idle it sits at about 30-31 and doesn’t move. I’ll adjust it back to what it was.. should I be removing the tps connector when I wind it back? The highest the timing went was about 50, on a whole hour drive, i went up a moderate hill going 100kmh at 2500rpm and the timing was about 30-40 depending on the accelerator, I found the high 50 timing was say when I was in 3rd gear moving along at a constant rpm probably on a slight hill. Hmm it was marked on the old cas so I tried to get it as close to that as possible.. I’ll see if I can compare it again and check. It’s not really a slight rough idle.. it’s pretty aggressive. The rpm doesn’t hunt, stays the same but the car will be shaking all over the place, some days worse than others and only noticeable when the engines warm form what I can tell
  5. So I actually already removed the IACV/AAC and thoroughly cleaned it but when I put it back on the car wouldn’t stay idling after turning on (would instantly die unless revved) and would die after revving it but if I held rpm at around 1k it would idle. So I upped the idle to about 900rpm on the iac screw, I did have the tps plugged in though which I read after it should’ve been unplugged. Should i I watch the “steps” when at idle? What’s a number it’s say, fine at? I guess what concerns me more is that if the timing being that low when at idle etc is it doing harm with me driving? Thanks
  6. Hi all.. TL;DR - timing at idle is 3 degrees according to NDSI (Android).. unsure if safe I recently have been been trying to fix a rumbly idle so replaced a few things etc. I took off my CAS and compared it to a spare one I had from my DE NEO. The one from the de was a lot easier to spin with no resistance whereas the one that was in the DET was quite resistive and wouldn’t spin freely. So I ended up putting the DE cas in and centred it (which was roughly where it was) anyway I happened to look on NDSI and at idle my timing is at 3 degrees?! I was under the impression it should be at 15? While driving and cruising at about 100kmh the timings around 30ish but will go higher/lower depending on how my foot is. Is this a serious issue? Obviously I’m going to get the timing etc checked but I won’t be able to do that until I get back from a 1400km road trip in the car... Cheers
  7. Yeah would be sweet as if we could get this forum up and running, maybe even some meets if there’s enough interest.
  8. Cheers, no budget for mods yet. Just want to enjoy it for a bit first, quite a bit different to the old slow 25de 4wd stag I had beforehand. I just need to change the BOV to a recirc one as the car idles quite rough at the moment. Otherwise its pretty mint
  9. I've been gone a loooong time. Old stagea blew a fitting at the back on the firewall and lost all my coolant.. temp gauge never moved and ultimately killed my engine. Spent a couple months without a stagea and really missed it.. so here I am again, just picked up this RS-v on the weekend, 25DET manual rwd. Sunroof too. Extremely happy
  10. Picked up a second hand canister from a wreckers today for $12 so easy as. Cars now back together and all good! thanks again for explaining what it was.. interesting stuff
  11. Bloody awesome help mate! I guess I shall now try find one locally, if not online it is lol. Wish I didn’t break it in anger now 😜
  12. I thought that was the black canister located near the intake duct at the front near the radiator? Is there anyway to bypass this canister if so? or if its low pressure would super gluing the nipple back on work?
  13. Hi all, was changing my oil pressure sensor and broke the nipple on this fine can of emptiness last night, has 2 vac lines going to it... located under the intake runner/plenum thingy lol. Thanks
  14. So I haven’t posted in a while here but I picked up a Takeros kit which needed a bit of work and paint and it’s slowly making its way to being done. its had the fibreglassing work done thanks to one of the awesome dudes at my work, I just need to bog it from the front and sand everything down and prep for paint. I will need to remove my tow bar which is a bummer but not the end of the world.
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