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About thebe

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  1. Hello. I I have r33 gtst that was converted from auto to manual with rb20 box (RB71C). With this gearbox the speedo was spot on, reading mph. I think the odometer is also reading miles incase it helps anything. The car spent a year or two in the uk before I got it. After first tune with my rb30 build the small box started making bad noises so got myself s2 (atleast sold as s2) rb25det gearbox. After the swap from rb20 to rb25 box, my speedo is reading exactly half the real speed. Like if I'm driving 60 mph real speed (GPS), my speedo is only showing 30. Regardless of speed its always reading half. The rb25 box wiring loom was cut when I got IT and none of the wires matched colours to my cars loom (6 wires in both looms). After little playing around I got my neutral and reverse lights on cluster to work correctly so I guess the speedo wires should be correct too? Tried switching the 2 wires on gearbox the other way around, but no help. Does anyone have any ideas on whats going on or what I could do to fix this? It's quite annoying as my steering feels very light now, specially at higher speeds. I've read that with manual conversion you also need a manual cluster, but with the rb20 box it was working spot on so that sound a bit strange to me. Despite living in Finland (we use kph) I like the mph reading as it can read higher than 180 kph. A simple dial face change would save me the trouble of calculating, but thats not my biggest issue right now. Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks
  2. I bought a set of silicone/rubber blocking-thingies. Cant remember the correct size but iirc it is smaller than your usual boost nipple on wastegates, bypasses and fprs.
  3. Yes. Buy a new ecu that can read a map sensor along with iat. Then fit them all and get the car mapped. Total cost about 2000€+.
  4. On my block it actually says rb30 [emoji848]
  5. On my rb25 (not neo) reason for high Idle turned out to be a boost leak. Unblocled hose nipple under the oem throttle body fitted to a Freddy intake with an adapter plate. Couldnt see it as its hidden under the throttle body. Found it only when leak tested my boost pipes with a compressor. Worth a shot maybe
  6. Get the inner tire from a bicycle with a correct vent and fit it to the beginning of your intercooler piping. I used inner The inner tire from a big fat mountain bike and used a normal hose clamp to secure it. Then use the compressor you fill the piping with air and you'll hear If/where it leaks. Im sure you can find diy pics If you google.
  7. A simple boost leak test is a cheap and easy place to start. You can easily test yourself If you have a compressor. Has the car actually been tuned for the new turbo?
  8. The stock gauges often have a life of their own. Mine started showing correctly after I removed and cleaned it (and fitted to another block). If you are worried about your oil pressure I would fit a good quality aftermarket gauge for a peace of mind
  9. First pic its the oem boost solenoid. Do you have some sort of boost controller installed? Second one looks to be somekind of diy switch. Could be for anything really. Possibly a power switch for aftermarket gauges, lights or something like that. Only way to find out is to follow the wires
  10. I had my apexi N1 coils (99 spec) repaired last winter by ohlins specialist. Cant remember exactly what he did, but all the shocks had leaked and now they seem to do ok. Ride is a bit hard for a road car though, iirc the springs were around 10/9kg or something like that. Shocks are now at mid stiffness (15 or 16 klicks, goes to 32). Been wondering if I could/should get a bit softer set of springs and which ones to get. Atleast rhdjapan seems to sell lots of generic springs that should fit
  11. What is serious horsepower to you? What kind of supporting mods do you have? Single or twin scroll manifold? Where do you use the car/what you want from it?
  12. So would it be better to remove the can again and block all the pipes/hoses? Lots of info online, but most are very conflicting or so old that all pics have expired.
  13. Hello My ecr33 has had the charcoal canister removed and all the plumbing blocked off. So petrol tank doesnt seem to breathe at all and makes a loud hissing noise when opening the filler cap, which I dont think is good. I refitted the canister and fitted the bottom hose (Leads to a t-piece) and one of the top ones to the curvy hose. I have a Freddy plenum so blocked of 2 at the top which I think originally went to somewhere in the plenum. Would this work as a petrol tank breather and is this the correct and safe way to do it? Or did I mess it up as had no notes as to where the lines originally went In my pic you can see the t-piece. Green goes to the hard line and to petrol tank (i think?), blue down from engine bay and into the bar, pink to the canister. The top hose goes to the original hardline near the can Thanks for any help!
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