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Hi! I'd like to get my Stageas wheels alligned but cannot find the recommended specs for it. The car is on oem wheels and stock suspension. Any old topic I find is for 4wd models and/or the pages and pictures are no longer working. The local garages here in Northern Finland cannot seem to find the specs for this jdm wagon with their systems. I found these specs (photo below) from M35Stagea.info but the thread is from 2014 and there aren't really any comments on it. Can anyone comment on them or does anyone have any insight on the matter? Thank you very much! 🥰

Its most likely the bov causing your issues. Its dumping out air the MAF has already measured so the engine is getting much less air than what has been measured. The stock ecu isnt good at handling false info. This is a common "issue" with these engines and bovs, especially fake ones. (More a feature really when fitting engines with parts not designed for the setup) Anyway I think your options are: 1. Get a bypass valve instead of blow off, stock or aftermarket. 2. Block off the bov completely. 3. Go aftermarket ecu with map 4. Relocate maf after bov and get a programmable ecu like nistune with a retune. 5. Ignore the problem and carry on. Learning how to give it gas while braking might help. I think number 1 is the most sensible one on a stock car, especially since we cant really say for sure its the bov via interweb, but its a good place to start. Stock bov is perfectly fine and should be cheap. I sold mine for ~20€

I just got my hm35 stagea (300 rx so rwd only) from Japan to Finland. Its Winter now so only snow and ice driving. With studded winter tyres no issues at all. Im sure with awd its only better

I had a small box on my ecr33 rb25det running about 300 hp (bpu) for 2 years without a problem. Only developed a whine after going rb30. Youll need: - front half of tail shaft - Gearbox mount - clutch slave cylinder (I got a braided clutch hose aswell to remove the OEM hard lines, which apparently are a bitch to bleed). - Shift knob Most likely youll have to do some fidling to get the speedo working. The box bolts straight to the engine and starter, clutch etc work just fine. Edit: Personally I wouldnt bother with the small box either. Sell the box and add the money you'd have to spend on making the small box work and you arent far from the 2k repair. And you'll have a good condition, much stronger box to enjoy. Worst case is you spend lots of money making the small box work and it shits itself after a short while so you end up repairing The big box anyway.

Budget? Where/how you are using the car? I have ACT 6 Puck with Extreme pressure plate (rated to 830nm iirc) on my rb30/25 street car (550hp/730nm) and Im happy with it. We dont really have bad traffic here where I live though

Finally had my r33 on rollers again. 2 years ago dynoed 440 hp @ 1.6 bar of boost (328kw @ 23psi) with what turned out to be a significant boost leak (vacuum nipple on/under throttle body wasnt blocked). Anyway now with the boost leak sorted (and new bypass etc) I hit 553 hp and 725nm at 1.55 bar (412 kW @22.5 psi)! Over 100 more hp with less boost! Wohoo 4 years ago when I started designing my setup my goal was a responsive 500-550hp so Im super happy hits full boost somewhere around 3500 rpm from what i can tell while driving. Rb25/30 (refreshed bottom by garage-d) Athena head gasket Arp bolts Reimax gears on stock pump Baffled sump oil cooler with thermostatic plate, filter recolation Holset He351w 14 cm with iwg welded shut Turbosmart progate 50 Sinco twin scroll manifold Freddy intake with stock throttle body 3,5" exhaust (wg joins exhaust after downpipe) 600x300x80 mishimoto intercooler VAG coils 1100 asnu injectors 450 walbro Gfb 33mm bypass Pmas hpx n1 MAF in 3" intake Pipe Nistune Gfb ge-force 2 ebc 98 pump Fuel Im sure Im forgetting alot. Was running into some issues with the ebc not reacting very well to duty changes (0 duty cycle gave 1 bar and 100 got us 1.05 bar). Had to install a restrictor before ebc solenoid and even with that now running 99 duty cycle. Well, it works and I dont think any more boost wouldve helped. And with stock pistons/rods it better to be on the safe side.

The link works fine. It leads to rb o2 sensor on the kudos website Also change the AFM for genuine one.

Test your pipework for boost leaks.

Looking at the slave cylinder to me that looks like rb20 box. Mounting holes on rb25det slave are on the same side nyt on rb20 box they are on the opposite sides of the cylinder, like on yours. Check out for markings on the side of the gearbox

Hey and thanks for the reply! Unfortubately I sold the small box at the same time I bought the new one and didn't realize I might have these issues now. Everything with both boxes seemed original so didn't suspect anything really. I might have a pic or two somewhere of the snall box if that helps. Makes me wonder If the old box was from a r33 Na of some sort and maybe as such had an electronic sensor aswell? Dunno If something like that even exists or why the new one doesnt work though. I tried to search the gearbox loom today for any added devices but couldnt find anything. Havent removed the dials/cluster though. Where might such signal converter be if one was fitted? Thanks again

Hello. I I have r33 gtst that was converted from auto to manual with rb20 box (RB71C). With this gearbox the speedo was spot on, reading mph. I think the odometer is also reading miles incase it helps anything. The car spent a year or two in the uk before I got it. After first tune with my rb30 build the small box started making bad noises so got myself s2 (atleast sold as s2) rb25det gearbox. After the swap from rb20 to rb25 box, my speedo is reading exactly half the real speed. Like if I'm driving 60 mph real speed (GPS), my speedo is only showing 30. Regardless of speed its always reading half. The rb25 box wiring loom was cut when I got IT and none of the wires matched colours to my cars loom (6 wires in both looms). After little playing around I got my neutral and reverse lights on cluster to work correctly so I guess the speedo wires should be correct too? Tried switching the 2 wires on gearbox the other way around, but no help. Does anyone have any ideas on whats going on or what I could do to fix this? It's quite annoying as my steering feels very light now, specially at higher speeds. I've read that with manual conversion you also need a manual cluster, but with the rb20 box it was working spot on so that sound a bit strange to me. Despite living in Finland (we use kph) I like the mph reading as it can read higher than 180 kph. A simple dial face change would save me the trouble of calculating, but thats not my biggest issue right now. Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks

Fake Greddy = Freddy.

I bought a set of silicone/rubber blocking-thingies. Cant remember the correct size but iirc it is smaller than your usual boost nipple on wastegates, bypasses and fprs.

Yes. Buy a new ecu that can read a map sensor along with iat. Then fit them all and get the car mapped. Total cost about 2000€+.

On my block it actually says rb30 [emoji848]

On my rb25 (not neo) reason for high Idle turned out to be a boost leak. Unblocled hose nipple under the oem throttle body fitted to a Freddy intake with an adapter plate. Couldnt see it as its hidden under the throttle body. Found it only when leak tested my boost pipes with a compressor. Worth a shot maybe

Get the inner tire from a bicycle with a correct vent and fit it to the beginning of your intercooler piping. I used inner The inner tire from a big fat mountain bike and used a normal hose clamp to secure it. Then use the compressor you fill the piping with air and you'll hear If/where it leaks. Im sure you can find diy pics If you google.

A simple boost leak test is a cheap and easy place to start. You can easily test yourself If you have a compressor. Has the car actually been tuned for the new turbo?

The stock gauges often have a life of their own. Mine started showing correctly after I removed and cleaned it (and fitted to another block). If you are worried about your oil pressure I would fit a good quality aftermarket gauge for a peace of mind

First pic its the oem boost solenoid. Do you have some sort of boost controller installed? Second one looks to be somekind of diy switch. Could be for anything really. Possibly a power switch for aftermarket gauges, lights or something like that. Only way to find out is to follow the wires

I had my apexi N1 coils (99 spec) repaired last winter by ohlins specialist. Cant remember exactly what he did, but all the shocks had leaked and now they seem to do ok. Ride is a bit hard for a road car though, iirc the springs were around 10/9kg or something like that. Shocks are now at mid stiffness (15 or 16 klicks, goes to 32). Been wondering if I could/should get a bit softer set of springs and which ones to get. Atleast rhdjapan seems to sell lots of generic springs that should fit

How is your afm currently located?

What is serious horsepower to you? What kind of supporting mods do you have? Single or twin scroll manifold? Where do you use the car/what you want from it?

So would it be better to remove the can again and block all the pipes/hoses? Lots of info online, but most are very conflicting or so old that all pics have expired.

Hello My ecr33 has had the charcoal canister removed and all the plumbing blocked off. So petrol tank doesnt seem to breathe at all and makes a loud hissing noise when opening the filler cap, which I dont think is good. I refitted the canister and fitted the bottom hose (Leads to a t-piece) and one of the top ones to the curvy hose. I have a Freddy plenum so blocked of 2 at the top which I think originally went to somewhere in the plenum. Would this work as a petrol tank breather and is this the correct and safe way to do it? Or did I mess it up as had no notes as to where the lines originally went In my pic you can see the t-piece. Green goes to the hard line and to petrol tank (i think?), blue down from engine bay and into the bar, pink to the canister. The top hose goes to the original hardline near the can Thanks for any help!