Scotterjay

Hi all! For anyone who has lost their key like I have and didn't have a spare, I have been quoted $610 for Ultimate Locksmiths Sydney to supply, cut & program a genuine proximity key. (they would have to get the key fob from Melbourne) I have asked for a quote from my local Nissan too yet still waiting on their response. A key set from Amayama is $137.12 and I've heard other people getting their key programmed for $100-150 which would be a lot cheaper in total (under $300) though the estimated delivery time from Amayama is 2 months. Just putting this out there for others and to also know what was your experience with getting a new key fob supplied/cut/programmed to your Nissan? What should I expect to pay for such a service if I'm not supplying my own key? Cheers! Scott

Crazy sequence of events, but the issue ended up being the starter relay was faulty so Nissan replaced that and then the steering lock assembly was giving no response so they had to bypass that for me. If I want a new Steering Lock Assembly for the added security, they quoted me $2265 for the parts and to have them fitted. I'm happy for now to not worry about that too much. So all in all, considering multiple services struggled to get any response from the vehicle, I dropped it off at Nissan on the 01/10 with no ignition and no ignition lights and got it back today 08/10 for $761 and everything is working fine. Pretty damn happy with that result. If anyone else has a similar issue, I hope for your sake it is as simple as your Starter Relay being faulty. Thank you everyone for your help! Thank you for everything TheMax, you have been an insanely good help. Also thanks for updating the post for anyone else that is struggling with something similar, absolute LEGEND!

Thanks for the reply Millerman! Turns out Nissan fixed it and it only needed 2 new relays put in and then a steering lock bypass otherwise I was quoted $2265 to buy and fit a new steerling lock assembly.

Hello all, Thanks to the help of "TheMax" who is an absolute legend, he helped diagnose what the issue was with my car not starting. Turns out the BCM (body control module) is the issue. So I wanted to ask if anyone has had their BCM replaced and configured anywhere in Sydney? At the moment the only place I can imagine who would have the tools to do it would be a Nissan service centre but I would rather take it somewhere else if anyone knows a place that has the required scan tool with immobiliser features to connect the new BCM up to the car. Thanks for your help!

I didn't know a specific scan tool was required, that makes sense as to why various people couldnt get the data off it now. Yes I am in Sydney, do you know anyone here?

I've called my local Nissan service centre, they said they handle imports and can start work on it Monday if I get it towed over the weekend there. Mentioned this to my sparky as he was quite puzzled as what to do, he said if it was him he wouldn't be taking it to Nissan and that I should find a specialist or someone that can spend some time on it to find out what's going on. He has recommended me another no bullshit sparky who he reckons could be the guy for the job, they aren't answering the phone so I'll have to call them Monday and let them know of the situation. I am getting quite fed up with the ongoing services all telling me the same thing and diverting me to another mechanic/sparky that leaving it with Nissan almost seems like a good option. Probably because then it is out of sight out of mind somewhat, but I can imagine if they end up not being able to fix it, or if they do and the price tag that comes along with it is huge I wont be too happy. I didn't expect this to be so difficult to be fair.

So he was only here for a short while as his tools couldn't communicate with the computer. He said he needs some ignition or lights on the dash to communicate with the car. Battery was showing over 13 volts he said and didn't seem to be an issue but he just couldn't get any info from the car. So how do we find out the error codes if the car won't communicate with the sparky's tools?

Got in contact with the trusted sparky, he pretty much wanted nothing to do with it once he heard it was an Import but is still happy for my sake, to have a go. Battery doesn't seems to be holding the charge for long, even after charging it for a considerable time, a day later went to see how its going and its dead. I did leave the hood slightly open but I doubt that has anything to do with it. So how is it drawing this much charge while everything is off? Or do I actually have a dud I wonder, might have to buy a cheap multimeter as you said. The trusted sparky said he will still come over and have a scan but mentioned that the fact it cant even get over to accessories or any response at all from the ignition, he might have trouble communicating with the computer. Is this why the last guy perhaps couldn't give enough information? What are the requirements to get all the info off the computers of these cars? Do you normally have to be able to get a response from the dash at least? Because the sparky seemed unsure if he would be much help considering the scenario and also mentioned he didn't want to waste my time after hearing about the previous auto electrician who ripped me off.

Its a 4amp 12volt charger. Was charging at 3amps and I just had a test now. Security light is back flashing, which is a good sign, lights work, high beams all the works. Inside lights, locks and unlocks with the key fine. So, battery seems fine as far as I can tell, perhaps something was left on and it died after it was towed? (To be fair I dont travel far to work and back so it barely gets a run in until the weekends). Still no light up on the "Lock" Sign on the ignition though. He did not give me anything else, I think he wants repeat business so purposely kept the info to a minimum (Also I wasn't exactly sure what to expect in terms of what data I should receive as an adequate service, I understand a bit more now having this back and forth with you Max, so thank you.) I wont be using his services again. My mechanic has requested I take it to this Auto Electrician he knows who is skilled and lives close by, he wasnt around last week due to an operation but is back this coming week. I'm going to have a chat with him tomorrow to see if he is familiar with the kind of issues my car is providing, if he is knowledgeable in it, then perhaps I tow it to his shop. If you know another course of action, i'm all ears!

Car Scan https://ibb.co/S6BrWZW Hopefully one of those links works. Yeah that we do, the battery is near new though so perhaps a light was left on or something over the course of this week. Currently have it on a 12V trickle charger so after some hours should be able to test it. Might see if I can get the NRMA out again to do a full test of the battery. The lighting around the ignition switch and the Intelligent Key Orange Light both vanished ever since the start when I tried to disconnect and reconnect my battery to see if that changed anything. That was a week ago and ever since then never seen those light up again even though id see the lights turn on when I open my doors. Also the security light that continuously flashes. I do somewhat remember the car taking a little longer (1/2 a second - 1 second) to turn over and start than usual in the last week or so that I could drive it. Perhaps this battery is a dud, was bought 24/05/2020 at Supercheap Auto. First things first, as you said. Need to know 100% if this battery is any good, because I am starting to question how well it holds a charge now. Sorry for the screw around Max, you have been very patient and helpful thus far!

Interesting, perhaps that is why the dude said my battery is dead. Its reasonably new and when NRMA tested it there was no issues. This auto electrician said my battery was completely flat, not sure how, as nothing was left on. But the lighting around the ignition button which is usually illuminated isn't so I wonder if that is due to the IPDM? I guess what i'm asking is, is it possible my battery is fine but the IPDM is stopping the power from going to anything? Was I suppose to get more results from the scan? All he sent me was that photo which I linked in my previous post. As a last resort i'm thinking of taking it to Nissan but I imagine they would charge me an arm and a leg?

Wow okay, they are expensive! I have found some cheap ones online, I assume they don't offer any where near the features and support of these legit scan tools. Car Scan Here is the scan. Seems like a BCM issue as you have predicted (is that very common with these cars?). Also something going on with the IPDM Engine Room? (no idea what that is). The guy didn't seem too versed in this or in these cars in general, so he said if I want more help he will need more labor hours to really have a go at it. Now that the errors are known though, what is my best next move? Thanks again for all your help!

Thanks for the well informed reply The Max. Hopefully the scanning dude is available tomorrow, does $160 for a mobile scanning service sound reasonable? That's what he quoted me. Once I know where the issue lies then ill refer to your post again to see how to fix it. Cheers!

Battery seems to be working fine though. All the lights work, NRMA guy tested the battery and seems all good. I wonder if disconnecting it for longer than a minute or 2 and reconnecting it could work. Just in case the system has a memory and keeps defaulting back to the issue.

Hi there, Just yesterday parked my car at the local park and when I went to start it again it wasn't turning over to accessories or on. It was stuck in "Lock" and was illuminated on the push to start button. Also noticed a orange/yellow light that shows a key symbol on it which was showing up on the dash. Never before seen that. Couldn't get it to start so tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting to hopefully restart it but after doing that the orange/yellow symbol with the key on it is now gone. Only the red security light is flashing and I cannot press anything. The illuminated "Lock" is no longer showing on the ignition button either. NRMA came out and tested everything, all seems to be good. We tried a couple tricks I saw on youtube/read on forums which involved moving the steering wheel up/down ,left/right quickly while trying to start it. Also tapping a hammer on the steering electrical system box? We didn't remove the housing underneath the wheel, which other people seemed to do on the videos, so i'm not sure if the dude was able to really get at the box correctly. After a lot of mucking around with 2 different roadside assistance people, tow truck came, used the shift lock latch to get it out of park as it was locked in there. And it has been towed to my place. Sadly the windows are down as when you disconnect the battery you need to program the windows again so it remembers to do that lil tuck in maneuver. Key works fine, as I put a new battery in it just in case, locks and unlocks correctly. Battery is near new. Fuse box is good. The display recognises when the key is in its housing and the door is open and warns me to take the key out. But no recognition otherwise. Is this possibly still a steering column/steering electrical box issue that a lot of Nissan cars have had trouble with? Or is this possibly something to do with the security system as everything seems locked out? The steering wheel was also not locked. (I assume it should be as part of the shutdown process when turning off?) Unsure what my next move is to get her fixed, currently the car is blocking my driveway as we didn't have the man power to push it. Any help would be appreciated Model: 2009 Nissan 370gt coupe or V36 coupe imported still in Japanese. Car is completely stock too. Cheers, Scott

Thanks for the reply Max! Amayama seems like a good site, thankyou for that! I just took the car down to a private panel beater i know. He said he can attempt to get rid of the whole system and try to get the bonnet down. I would rather get rid of it rather then have it all setup again, because it is too much of an inconvenience and how often does one hit a pedestrian? Is this a Japanese safety law? If all that fails, i believe i will head to the dealer. Fingers crossed the bonnet is flush and the system is gone!

Damn, that does suck! So am i best buying some parts online or what is the cheapest way to go about this? Wonder what the dealer would cost me to fix it all.

Pedestrian Safety Help Hello! Had to make an account because i have no idea how to tackle this situation i am in. I own a 370gt Coupe, 2009, and the other night i was driving around as i watched 2 kangaroos hop out infront of me and off to the side, but little did i know a 3rd kangaroo would jump into the side of my car! This made a loud bang and the hood popped up (Pedestrian Safety System). No exterior damage, just the dirt off his body at the end of the drivers side door just before the wheel. So im just wondering how to get the hood to retract back to its original position and to get rid of the warning light, unsure if i have to go to a Nissan dealer or if there is any other way. Any help is appreciated. Cheers, Scott