Sack87

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Sack87 last won the day on October 8 2017

Sack87 had the most liked content!

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About Sack87

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday 01/29/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Interests
    Fab work, MTB, Motorsport

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    M35 Stagea AR-X
  • Real Name
    Brendon

Recent Profile Visitors

634 profile views
  1. Sack87

    I plan on making some of this to sell in the future but I want to run it on my car for a bit to see what works and what doesn't. I may make up a different catch can setup that uses easier hose routing but it means you can't run the turtle shell.
  2. And that's a wrap. All gone now
  3. Sack87

    Knocked up a cooling mod but mine uses an SOS fitting as the bleed point. If your're familiar with Caterpillar mining equipment then you'll know why I chose this! To go along with that I bought a generic breather tank setup that will most likely go above the passenger cam cover. This is the highest point in the engine bay, has the most room and is easier to tap into the bottom rad hose. After doing the rear rotors I saw that the subframe was cracked on both sides pretty badly, also another reason why I bought the TIG welder. I made up a cardboard template and the aluminium I transfer that to will get welded in for more strength. And most recently I had a knock senor code throw up after handling the harness. Found this just hanging out in the valley. Plan is to buy another harness and re plug the whole thing as most of the connectors are breaking apart or already broken.
  4. Sack87

    So this is what I have in the works currently and I just tick along with them. Designed and 3D printed a pistol grip style shifter. Unlike the generic ones you can buy, this one slides on like the factory one and uses the circlip to hold it on snug. The cover at the base fits like a glove but I was limited to how much radius I could put on the shifter to match the cover. I finalised the design of my 3D printed catch can so just waiting on fittings to come so I can hook it all up and test out how well the ABS holds up to heat and fumes. The fitting by itself replaces the factory PCV and I had to get that from the states. The catch can is fully baffled inside and just requires some steel wool and the other baffle to be fitted.The top had to be removable as you can't print a baffle inside and object and know if it has printed properly. If the 3D printed one doesn't work, then I have all the individual pieces cut up ready to be fabbed up. This will be my first TIG welding project since buying one as I have only used MIG. To get the fumes to the catch can location I made up a steel hard line that goes from the passenger cam cover, along the fuel rail and follows behind the timing cover.
  5. Any takers on the last set?
  6. Sack87

    Thanks mate. I recently bought a TIG welder so I can do aluminium work but mostly to fix up my rear subframe as it's cracked. I've got a few things in the works including building a new engine soon as the current one is cactus. Just trying to keep this one going until the other engine is ready
  7. Sack87

    I've had no issues at all with my setup and haven''t had it fuel cut once.
  8. Sack87

    Couldn't be bothered searching to see if this is known; VQ35 starter motor is a direct replacement for VQ25DET. I have just fitted one after mine cooked itself. Bolts straight in with no modifications at all and no clearance issues. They share the same solenoid as well.
  9. Sack87

    No idea haha, most probably not but it cost me nothing to make. The more the better theoretically. I wanted to make up one that picks up several points but theres just no room under the car.
  10. Sack87

    Final brace made up and fitted. Acts like a floor bar tieing the ends of the frame rails together half way down the chassis.
  11. I have 3 sets of these left and I won't be making any more after these are gone.
  12. Sack87

    So here are the wire colours corresponding to the pin. I've tested them all and done the "pop test" for the speakers. 1 - White 2 - Green 3 - Red with blue stripe (this is a positive wire so don't ground it) 4 - Lime 5 - Black 6 - Red 7 - Green with white stripe 8 - Yellow large gauge 10 - Grey 12 - Blue 13 - Grey 14 - Yellow 15 - Orange 16 - Pink
  13. Sack87

    Double post
  14. Sack87

    THREAD REVIVAL I translated the Japanese wiring chart so hopefully it's of use to some people. I think this is the only one we need to hook up aftermarket stereos. I originally translated the other wiring chart with Navi unit plug (on page 1), but when I wired it in I had no sound at all even though I had that setup. When I get back home today I'll add in the wire colours when I hook mine up.
  15. Mods please delete