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About OldMateDavey

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    Rank: RB20E

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  • Car(s)
    S13, 180, S14, R34
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  1. Not a worry mate. In my opinion, the value stays the same if not increases it as it's a far better car to drive, now it is a manual. Best to always get it checked by a professional that the conversion was done correctly if you can't spot stuff like, dodgy wiring, hacked firewall for the clutch master cyl etc, yourself. The auto's aren't a bad thing, they're very reliable, but they're not great for nearly all things that involve spirited driving. 😊
  2. The original Nissan Motor Co., LTD. Japan plate has the type of transmission the car was born with, stamped at the bottom next to "Trans". If it is/was an automatic, the stamping will read: RE4****. See attached as an example. If it is a manual, the stamping will read: FS5W****. "*" = the star won't actually be stamped, but different models have different suffix after the letters/numbers of what I've posted.
  3. I've got TE37SL's on mine. 18x9.5+22 square setup. 235/40/18 all round. Rolled rear guards with coilovers and arms etc.
  4. I have the older, 2yo lol, MCA X-R's (R denotes "Race") of which could be comparable to their now "Street Performance" or "Street Ultimate" versions (clarification from Josh Coote on this would be optimal). They're super nice and directed squarely at yourself who want compliance on the street but can still hold their own when driving spiritedly. The "X-" range had 3 levels of valving, being "Comfort (C)" "Drift (D)" and "Race (R)" but I'm not 100% sure on their range at the moment. Best thing you can do is send an email (mail@mcasuspension.com) to the guys at MCA and they'll guide you to the best option, best of all their customer service is spot on and they're here in Aus so you wont be waiting long for parts or advice. Lastly, dont be confused, coilovers can give a really plush ride when set up correctly. Not all are rock hard drift spec items.
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