OldMateDavey

Not a problem mate. I doubt there would be much to be gained from this particular bushing, compared to Z32/R32 GTR in regard to geometry. So, searching specifically for these R34 knuckles may be a waste of time when you already have a good pair. Push in a set of SuperPro Z32/R32 bushes and be done with it 👌.

Hey Jarrett, All good mate, ended up ordering them new through Kudos Motorsports here in Aus for $25ea. The lower shock mount bush OD on these R34 knuckles are larger than Z32/R32 GTR, see below comparison photo between my R34 knuckle and Z32/R32 complete replacement spherical bearing bush from GKTech. I incorrectly ordered this spherical replacement as I originally thought that these were all the same. I've since decided to not press the old bush out in this instance and re-use it. I would do a quick double check on your Super Pro bushes compared to your knuckle/knuckle bushes (if you still have them). Let us know what you find.

Further to this, the R34GTR/GTT lower shock mount bush crush tube length is definitely 50mm.

Hey Jarrett, how'd you go with these? I'm in in the middle of doing this swap to my ER34 using R34GTR/GTT knuckles too. That ball joint spacer bush, is not in the knuckles I have, is that a standard part? Edit: Found the part I need. It's: https://frsport.com/nissan-40173-33p00-genuine-oem-lower-ball-joint-tapered-seat-nissan-z32-300zx-89-93?gclid=CjwKCAiAp4KCBhB6EiwAxRxbpOACc7Axqake_emVHYEYGj0CFEixIjF5ZrN6P683va9rFDvts4IRsxoCr0UQAvD_BwE Cheers 👍

Not a worry mate. In my opinion, the value stays the same if not increases it as it's a far better car to drive, now it is a manual. Best to always get it checked by a professional that the conversion was done correctly if you can't spot stuff like, dodgy wiring, hacked firewall for the clutch master cyl etc, yourself. The auto's aren't a bad thing, they're very reliable, but they're not great for nearly all things that involve spirited driving. ?

The original Nissan Motor Co., LTD. Japan plate has the type of transmission the car was born with, stamped at the bottom next to "Trans". If it is/was an automatic, the stamping will read: RE4****. See attached as an example. If it is a manual, the stamping will read: FS5W****. "*" = the star won't actually be stamped, but different models have different suffix after the letters/numbers of what I've posted.

I've got TE37SL's on mine. 18x9.5+22 square setup. 235/40/18 all round. Rolled rear guards with coilovers and arms etc.

I have the older, 2yo lol, MCA X-R's (R denotes "Race") of which could be comparable to their now "Street Performance" or "Street Ultimate" versions (clarification from Josh Coote on this would be optimal). They're super nice and directed squarely at yourself who want compliance on the street but can still hold their own when driving spiritedly. The "X-" range had 3 levels of valving, being "Comfort (C)" "Drift (D)" and "Race (R)" but I'm not 100% sure on their range at the moment. Best thing you can do is send an email ([email protected]) to the guys at MCA and they'll guide you to the best option, best of all their customer service is spot on and they're here in Aus so you wont be waiting long for parts or advice. Lastly, dont be confused, coilovers can give a really plush ride when set up correctly. Not all are rock hard drift spec items.