DaymoR32

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About DaymoR32

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday 07/06/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Griffith NSW

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R32 GTS-T
  • Real Name
    Damon

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  1. DaymoR32

    like this, on the left foot
  2. DaymoR32

    The bracket will have a letter stamped on one of the feet, there are no other numbers/letters on the bracket and it will be quite a large stamp.
  3. DaymoR32

    haha that's good then, the top of the diagram is if you are looking at the input end of the gearbox from the front of the car.
  4. DaymoR32

    This may make things a bit clearer
  5. DaymoR32

    Hi Duncan, Basically the old shell was an auto RB20DET R32 GTST, it had a manual conversion with an rb20det gearbox There are 3 different types of gearbox crossmembers all with different hole positions, from reading up on a few threads it seems that i need a C type one (A B or C are stamped into the crossmember) The hole positions in the shell's varied between auto and manual apparently, ive tried turning the crossmember the other way round, but due to the crossmembers not being flat, and more of a dog leg shape, when the crossmember is turned around the holes sort of line up, but the crossmember does not sit flat against the face. a bit of a poor description i know. i'll try and get photos tonight which will help my explanation.
  6. Hi, Wanting to buy a "C" type crossmember for my R32, currently re-shelling my GTST and the "B" type one doesnt fit, the holes need to be going the opposite direction! 0431 192 220 Cheers Damon
  7. DaymoR32

    Im sure the wheel alignment place will have heaps of fun when it finally goes for an alignment, at least it looks nice Yeah the evo is really fun to drive, its nice to have air con and be able to fit 4 adults in a car comfortably too!
  8. DaymoR32

    Not much of an update with regards to progress on the car, struggling to find time these days to get anything done apart from work! I managed to finish the rear end off, got all the adjustable arms fitted and the Hicas lockout bar in place, also removed all the Hicas lines from the car. And the rear calipers are on too. Brakes just need bleeding, but this will have to wait till the engine and gearbox are in place. Also got the steering wheel on and tidied up the remaining wiring so the interior is pretty much complete. I also needed to buy a "sensible daily" as my housemate is getting rid of the car i'd been borrowing while the skyline was off the road, so here she is. Hoping i can get some time in the next month or so to finish the skyline off. If not i'll probably put it all up for sale so someone who has the time can actually finish and enjoy it as i hate seeing it sat doing nothing! Hopefully some updates will happen in the very near future!
  9. DaymoR32

    Just done a quick search on carbon/charcoal canister removal, i'll remove the hard lines and stick a little breather on the end near the fuel tank so its out of the way.
  10. DaymoR32

    Cheers mate! i dont have a charcoal cannister though? Do i need the line or can i block it off at the rubber hose end?
  11. Hard Brake Line Query R32 GTS-T Hi Everyone, I'm in the process of dismantling my old engine bay and transferring it over to my new shell, i've stumbled across this hard brake line that had nothing attached to the end of it. Please can someone enlighten me as to what its for? is it a to do with the HICAS system? I haven't traced where it goes underneath the car yet, however the car that it is on has had the hicas removed and an eliminator kit fitted if that is any help. First image shows the hard line - situated near the power steering pump on the passenger side of the engine bay, second and third pic show where the hard line goes. Cheers,
  12. DaymoR32

    I have no experience with them, just saw them whilst i was browsing one day
  13. DaymoR32

    gk-tech do coloured steel ones for $28.00 https://www.gktech.com/top-sellers/open-ended-lug-nuts-pack-of-20.html
  14. DaymoR32

    So i managed to get a few jobs done this weekend, First up, i got the door locks out of the old car and into the new one, little bit of fumbling around to get the circlips out, but apart from that it was mainly hassle free. i then proceeded to stick most of the front half of the interior back in, i'm keeping the air/fuel ratio gauge and oil pressure gauge out for the time being until i decide where i want to mount them. the boost gauge will also need a permanent home as it is just laying on the passenger floor for now. they were originally housed in some makeshift gauge holder where the centre vents sit, but i want something a bit more driver focused this time around. I also need to stick the plastics on around the steering wheel and underneath the dash, i need to swap out the steering wheel boss and indicator stalk though, as some wires have been cut. so i will install them plastics once i remove the boss. gonna make a remover at work out of some scrap flat bar and a welded nut, i'm only gonna use it once so no point buying one. Once all that was done i set about changing the brakes over from the old car onto the new, (the discs are cracked on the new car so thought i might aswell get some more use out of the old ones). Also snapped a pic of the coilovers, they are literally brand new which is good to see! Old Brakes: New Brakes changed over, yes the discs have surface rust, but only because they've been sat for a while: I also thought id fit the uprated front sway bar that came with the new car while the front end was lifted up. unless im missing something, i dont see how this new one will fit, and i cant find any information about a 30mm front swaybar for the GTS-T so im presuming its an S13/14 item or something. and i'll also need some D-clamps to make it fit. comparison between old and new: So i chucked the standard sway bar back on and lowered the car back down to the ground. Moved onto the rear end, noticed the new car had a hicas lockout bar, and still has all the hicas stuff in the back, im gonna rip all this out and fit the eliminator kit from the old car. so i set about taking the rear hubs off the old car as these ones already have the tie rod ball joints taken out. Also got a nice suprise when i took the rotors off, turns out theres Project MU handbrake shoes in there! I also thought id throw in all the adjustable arms that came with the new car, i did fit the lower control arms, but didn't like the fit, so chucked the original ones back in. I've still got to reassemble it all, but will do that tonight. then move round to the passenger side and do the same again. Slowly ticking jobs off the list!
  15. DaymoR32

    Cheers, the previous owner removed all the factory sound deadening so this was the only real option for me. I’d have left the factory stuff in personally. A 9 sheet pack will do the floor, and I still have a little bit of a sheet left to stick a bit behind the component speakers when I get to round to buying some.