timothy

Here’s a another lesson for the day, you won’t learn anything if you don’t try I ain’t gonna apologise for giving something a go. Like I said, I even got a mechanic (someone who knows what they’re doing) to try and sort it out. So chill bro

The gtst master looks pretty identical to the gts master. But I couldn’t use it because it only uses two brakes lines, and I need three. No experience with brakes so I’m not too sure what you mean, although I read something saying that since the gtst brakes are bigger it requires more brake fluid to work resulting in a softer pedal. If that’s what you mean by the calipers piston area difference? I thought brakes just relied on pressure which means having bigger brakes really shouldnt affect it But I’m not really sure so yeah..

My last 33 brakes felt a lot more firmer tho but that was with stock non turbo brakes, I just can’t understand that upgrading to gtst brakes would leave my pedal feeling so soft? Surely it can’t be normal? Having brakes that don’t work until the last 20% just doesn’t feel safe or reliable aha. And yea the master cylinder brace I seen that the other day they’re only like $50. But like you said it will only help with stopping the fire wall from Flexing. It won’t improve the 80% of the pedal that doesn’t do anything :(

After doing a 5 stud conversion + brake upgrade (r33 gtst brakes) onto my r33 gts I cant get my brake pedal to feel firm. The car used to have ABS but everything has been removed including the sensors on the calipers. I have compared my brake setup to another non abs r33 and its exactly the same so theres no reason it shouldn't work. Ive already had a mechanic look at it, tried to bleed it, but still no improvement on the brakes. Besides that I have also tried to bleed the brakes and master cylinder using the brake pedal and a hand pump vacuum bleeder. With the car not running, the first 20% of the brake pedal has play, and the last 80% of the brake pedal feeling solid as. With the car running, is literally the opposite, 80% of the brake pedal is useless and the last 20% is when the brakes stop the car although i haven't tested it at speed higher than 30km/h. Theres no leaks, every connection is tight, fresh brake fluid etc. The brake booster is also from a turbo r33 to match the turbo gtst brakes. Could the master cylinder be broken? is there a way to test if it is? the brake booster and master cylinder both worked before installing them. I read on a forum from someone who did the same brake upgrade, same car, and had to upgrade to brake booster and master cylinder cause the brake pedal always felt soft/spongy. But there was no information on the upgrades he made? Any help would be appreciated!

Abs vs non abs Working on my r33 gtst - rb25 Just finishing off an engine swap & manual conversion and unsure about a couple things. I've swapped everything from one r33 without abs into another 33 with abs. I was just going to swap all the diff and manual tailshaft into the car with abs but the current diff has abs sensors and an abs auto tailshaft (unsure if there are abs and non abs tailshafts) but anyway, my question is can I just unbolt the auto tailshaft connected to the abs diff vlsd and bolt in my manual tailshaft and be good to go? If that won't work, if I put my non abs lsd diff in, in what way will Abs be affected as the sensors won't be connected?

If there's no compliance plate? Am I out of luck aha...

Hey guys, I recently bought a non rolling r33 shell to replace the body of my current r33. My current r33 is on the road has bad alignment issues, heap of rust, cracked windscreen and is just waiting for a defect sticker. So I figured if I bought a shell I could swap everything over to avoid repairing all the rust, paint, windscreen etc. I got the shell really cheap so it made sense to go with this option. However, what are my options with plates? Is there someway I can legally swap them over to my new shell? I don't want to straight up plate swap them and risk the chance of getting caught up in something where I could face fines + no car at all. As far as I'm aware plates are meant to match the cars vin number on rego papers right? The new shell did not come with plates - So yeah, what's my options?

Hey Duncan, First question: I will be working in my shed, cement flooring, plenty of space. I have an engine crane, couple of jacks, jack stands, other tools to cover the job. Talked to a few friends and decided to take it out through the top. Second question: Everything from this car is going into another shell so unfortunately i have a lot to do aha. The new shell i have is pretty well stripped and needs almost every-part from my old car.

Removing an rb25de/det + gearbox Before I get any heroes, leave your negativity with your huge ego ay what do i need? - a simple but detailed explanation of how to remove an rb25de/det + gearbox. but anyway, hopefully this is an easy one for yous I searched, read, and googled a lot. But, I haven't the right forums or a detailed enough explanation to run with. So, what im asking is if there is anyone on here that believes that they 'know' the best/right way of removing an rb25de/det engine + gearbox. This will a first time experiencing removing an engine plus box so the more detailed and well explained tutorial the smoother this process will go. I have watched a lot of videos, which has covered a lot of steps to remove an engine. Though It seems almost no one does it the same way, some people remove a lot of components where some only remove 'the basics'. Watching lots of different videos and reading stacks of information is pretty overwhelming. If someone could post a thread, find a thread, link me a thread/ video/ anything that you think would help it would be appreciated. what do i need? - a simple but detailed explanation of how to remove an rb25de/det + gearbox.