r34.rory

It’s the only picture I have handy right now, sorry ! R34 GTT factory turbo auto, got converted in Japan, unsure if it’s RB25 box or Rb20? As trying to source an updated clutch. Many thanks.

Had a look today, turns out I wired it incorrectly, I had the signal ground connected to the signal output. Rewired correctly and it seems to have solved the problem. Glad was an easy fix in the end. Thanks.

okay I will do that and report back

yes sir

Hi all i’m bit of a noob when it comes to wiring.. anyhow I recently installed an r35 maf on my r34gtt neo. I extended the wiring to the maf which sits in the cold side IC pipe. I load up nistune and instantly greeted with a warning saying “MAF voltage exceeded 5V! Check MAF is not reaching maximum capacity” I used the picture below to wire it up. Have I just wired it up wrong perhaps or maybe MAF is bad ? It wasn’t new I got it from a breaker yard but genuine nissan. Thank you.

Started it up and oil feed is leaking. it’s leaking from underneath the copper washer. It will also leak without the washer. don’t know why the holset never came with two threaded holes. Is there anything I can do other than drill and tap for an adapter?

Think you’re right @GTSBoy. I check today and found the boost sensor was hidden right behind the rear of the engine hidden away and the nipple has snapped clean off the sensor. Picked one up today off a random Nissan, not same part number but 100% identical visually and has 3 pin plug also. Will try tomorrow and report back 👍🏻

Thanks for that. Will check tomorrow as putting another hose on as well that’s isn’t kinked. I still have the r34 throttle body. I might put it back on I hope I have room. Think it’s best I should get my hands on a nistune cable soon.

throttle body alongside a nistune, I know a lot of people hate ffp, fair enough I understand. But still it shouldn’t do that as thousands of people have done it without issue. I’m just trying to find out the cause. maybe do a vac leak check.

After we put a front facing inlet on the car, it basically cuts out if I press the pedal down too quick.(around 1k rpm if I remember correctly) Example if I have it idling and want to give it a quick rev it’s like she stops running and wants to cut out until I let off. It appears to idle fine and It will go full send without issue if I gradually press the pedal. What would cause this? I iniatlly suspected my IAC hose that goes from the IAC to pipe at throttle body as it had a massive kink and was basically cut off. After searching online I don’t think it has anything to do with the IAC? I’ll swap the hose for a straight one anyway in the next day or two. Any suggestions? Vac leak maybe? thanks 🙏🏻

Hello all, is anyone here willing to help a U.K brother out? Must be willing to ship to the U.K - Scotland. I’ve been searching a while for a pair of these spats but there pretty hard to come by here in the U.K. I can’t find them on eBay or that only one seller in Russia but it’s mega money for two pieces of fibreglass. So I figured I’d give here a try as I feel I’d have better luck. Any condition and colour is welcome. Pm me for my details if you need a postage quote. Thanks.

That’s the thing I was. I believe that’s a turbosmart diagram. But I see so many people just venting to atmosphere instead that’s what made me question it. Yeah but Nistune.

What’s the best way to plumb the gate to my greddy profec b spec 2? before I changed to a sinco manifold I had this as shown in the pic. But never got to try it/dyno it as I changed up to a sinco twin scroll and different wastegate. Most pics/build I see have only two lines to controller and the third is vented to atmosphere. I’m not looking for anything crazy. 400-500bhp but prefer response. should I just ask my tuner how I should plumb it? ————————————————————— RB25DET NEO Holset HX32 twinscroll sinco twinscroll mani profec b spec 2 turbosmart ultragate 45mm 14psi spring

Good idea Ben I’ll go ahead and get some.

after some advice from experience. my oil drain, I don’t think there’s a way to get safely around the wastegate outlet without compromising good flow. I can get sufficient flow that I’m honestly happy with but it just means theres only about 4/5mm between the outlet and drain. My drain is fully metal. 20mm id Steel. Is this okay? Guess I’m just worried about the oil temp getting high. Should I be concerned about this gap or anything else? I have a flexi in the downpipe so I don’t think the two will ever touch. See pics below. I could probably increase the gap 1 or 2mm but wouldn’t like to go any more.

Not one for bumping old threads. But the issue is solved, so might help someone else having the same issues. I removed the fuel pump resistor and it works perfect now adjusts great.

I’ve just made a steel one for my eBay manifold lol haven’t even tested it yet and going to put it on tomorrow just so I can get my car up into the drive. Then I’ll strip it all apart again In preparation for my sinco. but there’s no chance my drain that I just made will fit around the sinco wastegate pipes. Re fabbing shouldnt be too hard just a pain I have to do it again. Shouldn’t have put an eBay manifold on in the first place ! Looking at your pics, you might get away with a 30degree fitting if not a 45 straight off the turbo and around the gate pipe. Ps that flexible pipe, what’s it called?

What are you doing with the oil drain. I think I’m going to get a twin scroll sinco. But from what I can see the wastegate pipes get in the way of a traditional straight down oil return? Any pics

OTa da.. it’s out.. some heat and a strong hand to clamp molgrips and a breaker bar. an10 ally v stainless 20mm ID thanks for the replies.

the aluminium adapter that goes into the block is rounded and it’s fu**ing tight... basically I was removing my an 10 oil drain/return for a bigger ID metal one as the holset was smoking. ive tried molgrips but it literally doesn’t budge only rounds it more. it’s a 28mm so the off the shelf rounded nut socket thingys won’t fit. Any ideas ? I might try file it a little and hammer a 27mm socket onto it.

Bit of a revival but I got a new battery fitted as my old one was dead. Also today I found out the grounds for the water temp and TPS? ( you know the two on the intake mani) we’re disconnected. so I grounded them to the inlet mani and now I can get my TPS set to .48v closed and 4.16 WOT. Great if anyone has issues like mine, make sure your grounds and connected and clean. The grounds are in the pic.

Hi. Recently just discovered one of the ports for the power steering was blocked off? sorry for bad pic but basically the hose that I’ve circled in red has been cut and had a bolt clamped in the hose to block it what would be the reason behind this?

Thanks for the reply. Yeah I’ve got a nistune, okay so the red wire is fine? what volts should the black wire be? Okay ill try my 34 TB Thanks

So after going FFP on my r34, used R33 throttle body. I figured I should adjust my TPS as when I swapped my R34 TPS onto the R33 throttle body it was most likely off. So after reading through various posts on here I found my answer quickly. Probe the three wires until I find the signal wire and adjust TPS until .4-.5v. Easy enough.... Trouble is the signal wire (white) reads at minimum 1.00v and won’t go lower and full throttle reads adjusts 4.65v max black wire reads 0.83v which is crazy as it should read 12v right? the red wire reads 5.91v and should also read 12v? do I need a new TPS? Should I try a S2 tps?

Yeah I always just assumed it was prob just an r33 box until I seen the mounting holes.