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About RB25Detonator

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    Rank: RB20E

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  • Car(s)
    R34 GTT

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  1. RB25Detonator

    Hi all, Does anyone know what the thread and pitch size is for the Heater hose (return I think?) fitting/attachment that threads into the block. I assume all RBs have the same thread on these? I've uploaded a pic of it (block is upside down). It sits on the intake side near the top rear of the block. I'm doing up a RB30/25. As we all know, you have to swap out the RB30 one and put the 25 one in there because the 25 has only 1 barbed outlet for the heater hose. I had to grind the old one out of the RB30 with a dremel because it was rusted on there so badly, and thinking the RB25 one will be the same, I just want to get a brand new one. If anyone could tell me the thread and pitch size of this fitting (or even better, the Nissan part number!) that would be much appreciated for me and everyone els looking for this in the future, because I've tried googling, and googling and nothing. Thanks!
  2. If I were you right now, I would comp test the engine to check its health but it's probably farked from the looks of it. I'm probably putting my money on head warpage/gasket. Those things you listed looks pretty easy to replace (to me). You should try looking for second hand parts on gumtree and FB market. Theres sometimes some cheap stuff on there (for example if someone decided to upgrade their radiator to aftermarket then they usually sell the old orignal one for like $50) I find auto r34 clusters to be way cheaper than manual ones (just not sure about odometer swaping over to other cluster. Anyway there is a trick to put the cluster in dianostics mode (or something like that) and it puts the needle dails on the default position (RPM will go to like 2500 or something then just turn it to the default position with your finger, check the r34 workshop manual lol i cant remember) On the plus side it does have a dfecent body kit and paing job (not like those ricey bomex kits out there)
  3. RB25Detonator

    I assume you have the breather pipe and bov plumb back pipe blocked that comes out of your stock intake pipe. Try blocking it closer to the turbo, for example, block it before it enters the intercooler. or, enter smoke right after the turbo and block off the same as your picture^^
  4. Where can I get a Steel Induction/suction/intake pipe? [RB25DET] I've googled and googled, I can't find a metal induction pipe that will go from my factory MAF to factory turbo. It's for my R34 GTT RB25DET Neo, and I'm going to get my factory turbo highflowed by Hypergear. They recommend to run a 3" steel induction pipe to the turbo. I have a silicone one right now and I think it's collapsing when I hit 1.3bar with my factory turbz. So I've searched every where and theres nothing out there. Can someone please link me to a site or someone that might sell one. Or does one usually weld one up? I'm also thinking of getting a Z32 in the future so will have to fit that too if possible
  5. RB25Detonator

    Ok so, I've taken out the fuel sender and moved it up and down, ignition switched turned to on and the fuel gauge doesn't move. I then checked the resistance by probing the fuel sender wire and it does work. I get 6 omhs at full and 80 at empty. I then checked the continuity from the sender plug to the plug of the cluster and there is continuity. I then checked the continuity from the sender's ground to where it grounds and there is continuity. So then I bought a test light (tested some fuses and it works). I then hooked the test light's ground to the negative of the battery and then with the key switched to on, i probed the back of the harness and get nothing! It's this one right? number 7. I don't know what to try next. Are there any tests I can do on the cluster board?
  6. RB25Detonator

    Hi Steventt, thanks for the reply. I don't own a test light, the only thing I have is a little multi meter. I will try your test light methods when I get one. I took off the fuel sender plug and checked the resistance on the fuel sender. It definitely works, I get about 46 ohms. So it's not the sender its self. I think it might be the wire harness going from the sender plug to the cluster or the gauge. I saw this on the service manual: So I tried this and all the gauges go up except for the fuel gauge. It just stays there. So then I took off the glass bit from the cluster and manually moved the fuel needle up and it quickly goes down, so it definitely has power. I then took out the fuel gauge out of the cluster to do some tests on it: So this gauge works right? So now I'm thinking the harness might be the problem. I did some more research. Apparently if you take off your harness from the sending unit (this black one): and ground/earth it then switch ignition on, the gauge should shoot up to the full mark. Mine doesn't. It just sits on empty. So what's next? I'm gonna see if I can get my hands on a test light and try poke it from the back of the instrument cluster where the sender feeds into (looks like a purple wire) just like what steventt suggested above. Clamp it on ground and probe test light into where sender wire feeds into the back of the cluster right? Do you do it with the main harnesses connected to the cluster or take cluster out of car? Will the gauge go up without the harnesses connected to the back?
  7. RB25Detonator

    Also, this is from the R34 service manual. I did check the fuel gauge with a multi meter and it does work.
  8. R34 Combo Meter/Instrument Cluster Question I replaced my globes ages ago with LED wedge T5 globes for my Instrument Cluster on my R34 GTT (manual). Since then the fuel gauge doesn't work anymore (only shows yellow light when fuel is close to empty). Recently I replaced the globes again with white LED wedge T5 globes and noticed that there are no screws where it says "GND" on the back of the cluster (right side). Is that normal? I would like to get my fuel gauge working again. I did have this problem ages ago and then I fixed it by cleaning the fuel sender last year, but I can't be F'd doing it again... It can't be dirty. It happened when I replaced the globes in the cluster. So many people get this problem and there is no answer out there to why it happens. So I would like to know if there is someone out there that have a solution to this problem before I go to try clean it. BTW, all wire harnesses to the cluster are pressed in very good and wire harness going to fuel tank is in firmly (I did check).
  9. RB25Detonator

    I'm thinking of purchasing this cat back system: http://justjap.com/blitz-nur-spec-r-exhaust-system-nissan-skyline-er34-2-door.html Any thoughts on this? I heard they are awfully loud. Not really keen for angry looks or neighbours but oh wellz. What do you guys reckon? Good buy?
  10. RB25Detonator

    Thanks guys!! I found a 3" in/out with a 5" body on their ebay store: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-VENOM-High-Flow-Cat-/251462137809?hash=item3a8c4fb7d1
  11. RB25Detonator

    What cat would you guys recommend? Are Venom really good ones? I saw this on their ebay store: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-VENOM-High-Flow-Cat-/251254455756?hash=item3a7feebdcc Can't find a 5" one but would this 3" Venom be better than x-force?
  12. Front/Dump Pipe/Exhaust Help Hi guys. I want to upgrade my stock dump/front pipes and cat on my R34 GTT. I don't wanna go overboard. It's just a daily driven car. Right now I have a SR JASMA cat back exhaust. I think it's 3", but I am going to replace it with a Blitz Nur Spec cat back later on. Firstly, I would like to replace the front/dump pipe. I saw this on just jap: http://justjap.com/jjr-stainless-3-bellmouth-front-dump-pipe-nissan-skyline-er34.html JJR Stainless 3" Bellmouth front/dump pipe And this cat: http://justjap.com/x-force-3-stainless-high-flow-cat-nissan-type-3.html X-Force 3" Stainless High Flow Cat Question 1: Would these two pieces bolt up together? i.e would the flanges mate up perfectly? Or would I have to modify them? Question 2: When you put the pieces together, do you have to use some special silicon between the gaskets? or do you just use the gaskets they provide? Question 3: Is it very important that you need a tune after the installation, or can i just adjust my boost controller down a notch and all is well? Question 4: Would it be a good idea to wrap the front/dump pipe in Titanium wrap or waste of $$ and time? Question 5: What is the cell rating on that x-force 3' cat and is it a good buy for a daily driver expecting a little more power gain (with supporting mods in future ofcourse)? R34 GTT Coupe Manual RB25Det, stock turbo, FMIC, stock ecu, boost controller,