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About RB25Detonator

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    R34 GTT

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  1. Thanks guys! I blew compressed air into the sides of the shim and underneath the bucket through the tiny hole and then with a magnet on the shim, pulled it off.
  2. I know theres heaps of info on cleaning hydraulic lifters but theres nothing on solid lifters. Im currently taking apart my RB25DET Neo head and thought i could give the solid lifters a bit of a clean. But I want to check here first about how to go with taking them apart before I break them. Or is it not ment to be taken apart?
  3. What sealant do you guys use on welch/core/freeze plugs on your RBs? I'm in the process of building an RB30/25 and I can't seem to find any answers on here. I have bought brand new brass welch plugs. Apparently you have to use a special silicone sealant? I read somewhere on here that someone said loctite 504. Then I read somewhere els on the interweb (on other engines) that someone said permatex no. 3, and stag. LS motors have special ones that they buy from GM i think. I bought a nissan gasket kit and got nissan fluid gasket which i'll be using on the water pump. Do you also use it on the oil pump (+gasket) and oil pan?
  4. Yeah. If the bores were 86.5 with that pit, i would have gone back and told them to clean it up by taking another .5mm off to make it 87mm. But these bores are already 87mm and i dont even know if there are 87.5mm pistons out there for RB30 (and if there are, i bet their expensive). Plus ill be left with about 3mm of cylinder wall thickness. So yeah your right, would be expensive journey. This is a cheapish build for street use. The hypatec pistons and rings only costed $300. Using stock rods, crank with collar and neo head with usual bolt ons. Will be limiting revs to 6500 and will probably only expect 250-300kw with usual bolt ons. Its ment to be my daily for driving to and from work ect... that i want to last for a long time as i dont have time to open it up again. But i guess im just going to go ahead with the build and just be prepared to open it up again (hopefully not). If the rings catch onto that gouge/pit, what items should i expect to get raped? Will crank and bearings still be ok? I would imagine it would shatter the rings and probably the piston and bore (hopefully wont lock rotating assembly?) I dont really mind if bores get damage cos blocks are cheap. Thanks guys for your inputs!
  5. 0.04mm clearance which is just above the minimum clearance of those hypatec pistons of 1.5thou. I've left my machinist an email. Just waiting on what they'll say. So theres no other option than reboring it right? No one's tried a little tac weld then grind down with dremal and rebore/hone? Lol bare with me, this is my first engine recon and im just trying to lay out some options
  6. It sits 70mm down the bore. The pit is 0.1mm deep. Bores have been machined with a piston to wall clearance of 0.04mm to run my hypatec RB30ET 87mm pistons. fml. dont know what to do at this point...
  7. Aw shiet. I was kinda thinking it would be. JB weld it by smearing small layers on the pit? Lol I really dont wanna rebore it again. Im gonna measure how deep it is today with a dail bore gauge and see what my machinist have to say
  8. Hi guys. I got my RB30 block back from the machinist like 3 weeks ago. I just started cleaning the bores and noticed a tiny gouge (what ever you call it) in one of my bores. The block had a rebore of +1mm to suit 87mm pistons and torque plate hone. Originally it was going to have a +0.5mm rebore but machinist called me up saying the scores were too deep to clean the bores up so then I had to purchase +1mm oversized pistons and they bored and honed to that. I can feel it definitly with my finger nail. I reckon it's about 0.2 or .1mm deep probably. I'm worried now. I want this build to last years as it will be my daily streeter. Will this cause damage to my rings and/or cylinder bores?
  9. No you don't have to. You can download the Nistune software from their Software Downloads page and you will get free 4 day trail. Then get a nissan consult cable from ebay or something. Check what your throttle position is on the TPS. You can check it on the nistune software
  10. Yeah, my leak was only coming out of the internal wastegate. The other hissing noises in the background is my shitty air compressor leaking. When I connected my stock nissan internal wastegate, there were no boost leaks. I can't believe I've been boosting with the gate stuck in the closed position. It actually runs shit now haha. Can't boost past 6psi because the gate can now open. I'll try preloading the arm even more. I reckon this was a major cause of why my engine has low compression. O-welll, I'm chuckin a RB30 in it soon
  11. Yeah, I took the arm out of the wastegate and bend it by putting a pipe over it and then jamming the other end into a something els (my stock strut bar lol).
  12. Also, here's a pic of how it looks like inside the Mamba internal waste gate. You can see the O-Ring sitting inside the cap on the left. The steel bucket sits inside that cap
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