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About RB25Detonator

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    R34 GTT

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  1. Yeah. If the bores were 86.5 with that pit, i would have gone back and told them to clean it up by taking another .5mm off to make it 87mm. But these bores are already 87mm and i dont even know if there are 87.5mm pistons out there for RB30 (and if there are, i bet their expensive). Plus ill be left with about 3mm of cylinder wall thickness. So yeah your right, would be expensive journey. This is a cheapish build for street use. The hypatec pistons and rings only costed $300. Using stock rods, crank with collar and neo head with usual bolt ons. Will be limiting revs to 6500 and will probably only expect 250-300kw with usual bolt ons. Its ment to be my daily for driving to and from work ect... that i want to last for a long time as i dont have time to open it up again. But i guess im just going to go ahead with the build and just be prepared to open it up again (hopefully not). If the rings catch onto that gouge/pit, what items should i expect to get raped? Will crank and bearings still be ok? I would imagine it would shatter the rings and probably the piston and bore (hopefully wont lock rotating assembly?) I dont really mind if bores get damage cos blocks are cheap. Thanks guys for your inputs!
  2. 0.04mm clearance which is just above the minimum clearance of those hypatec pistons of 1.5thou. I've left my machinist an email. Just waiting on what they'll say. So theres no other option than reboring it right? No one's tried a little tac weld then grind down with dremal and rebore/hone? Lol bare with me, this is my first engine recon and im just trying to lay out some options
  3. It sits 70mm down the bore. The pit is 0.1mm deep. Bores have been machined with a piston to wall clearance of 0.04mm to run my hypatec RB30ET 87mm pistons. fml. dont know what to do at this point...
  4. Aw shiet. I was kinda thinking it would be. JB weld it by smearing small layers on the pit? Lol I really dont wanna rebore it again. Im gonna measure how deep it is today with a dail bore gauge and see what my machinist have to say
  5. Hi guys. I got my RB30 block back from the machinist like 3 weeks ago. I just started cleaning the bores and noticed a tiny gouge (what ever you call it) in one of my bores. The block had a rebore of +1mm to suit 87mm pistons and torque plate hone. Originally it was going to have a +0.5mm rebore but machinist called me up saying the scores were too deep to clean the bores up so then I had to purchase +1mm oversized pistons and they bored and honed to that. I can feel it definitly with my finger nail. I reckon it's about 0.2 or .1mm deep probably. I'm worried now. I want this build to last years as it will be my daily streeter. Will this cause damage to my rings and/or cylinder bores?
  6. No you don't have to. You can download the Nistune software from their Software Downloads page and you will get free 4 day trail. Then get a nissan consult cable from ebay or something. Check what your throttle position is on the TPS. You can check it on the nistune software
  7. Yeah, my leak was only coming out of the internal wastegate. The other hissing noises in the background is my shitty air compressor leaking. When I connected my stock nissan internal wastegate, there were no boost leaks. I can't believe I've been boosting with the gate stuck in the closed position. It actually runs shit now haha. Can't boost past 6psi because the gate can now open. I'll try preloading the arm even more. I reckon this was a major cause of why my engine has low compression. O-welll, I'm chuckin a RB30 in it soon
  8. Yeah, I took the arm out of the wastegate and bend it by putting a pipe over it and then jamming the other end into a something els (my stock strut bar lol).
  9. Also, here's a pic of how it looks like inside the Mamba internal waste gate. You can see the O-Ring sitting inside the cap on the left. The steel bucket sits inside that cap
  10. Ok, I've figured out what was causing the boost leak in the wastegate. Turns out that my actuator arm was sitting on a funny angle when connected to the turbo's gate, forcing the air to push past the o-ring in the wastegate. I've attached a video to show what I mean. So in the video, I've connected compressed air straight into the wastegate with the arm disconnected and testing the operation of the wastegate with no air leaks. Then I connect the arm onto the turbo's gate with no pre load and blew air into the wastegate and it then fouled on the turbo's outlet (something to look out for). Then I rotated the arm slightly so that it won't touch the turbo's outlet and when I blew air into the wastegate, it leaked air past the o-ring because of the arm being pulled to one side. I've got it working now without any leaks. I actually took the actuator arm out of the wastegate and bend it to where it wants to be. And then I tested with the arm connected to the gate and it operates freely now with no leaks. I suggest to everyone to test your internal wastegate's operation by connecting compressed air directly to it. IMG_0795.mp4
  11. I've got a brand new Mamba Adjustable Internal Wastegate on my highflow RB25 turbo. I did a boost leak test and it leaks a lot of air from the wastegate's diaphragm out through the hole that the wastegate has. I've attached a video showing the massive boost leak. My question is, Is it suppose to leak air like this? The stock nissan wastegate doesn't have a hole that leaks air out of the wastegate. Maybe the hole is there to save the engine? I don't know.... I have a EBC that uses a mac solenoid. My second question is, there ment to be air going through the mac solenoid if the car is off or EBC switched on? If not, then I'll know my EBC or mac solenoid is stuffed. IMG_0792.mp4
  12. So you want a GTT front bar on a R34 GTR? Sorry I'm trying to figure out your post. I have the Type R R34 GTT body kit from Viva Garage (based in Melbourne) which looks like the front bar in your pic. Here's a photo of the Type R kit from their FB. For some reason, their website is under maintainance but I'm sure you can contact them via FB. It looks the same exept for the vents on the side of the front bar, but you can cut ones out if you want. I'm pretty sure you can buy the front bar seperate. It cost me $1000 for the whole kit and was a bit of a pain to fit. Alot of hours went into sanding to make it sit flush with the fender ect... and you have to drill your own holes and paint it. It also comes with a bonnet lip incase you want to fit the GTR bonnet on it, but I'm pretty sure GTR fenders are different to GTT fenders, so GTR bonnet won't fit on GTT? idk
  13. Hi all, I want to know what are some good engine machinists that you guys have gone to get work done on your RBs. I'm currently building a RB30/25DET Neo and I want a machinist that has experience and knowledge in RB engines. Thanks.
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