DTT_Eruc

I dont know if anyone can help me but am looking for a hks t51r kai non ball bearing turbine wheel/shaft... Can be a used one but in working condition or know where i can get a new one

What's the oem specs for clearances on the rod and main ?

Size std brand would be acl I guess

Guys I need some assistance. How do you go about selecting bearings for both rod and main for RB25DET NEO. There is no issue on the crank nor rod its perfect enough for me to go std I believe

Am not using a pivot ball system and the pedal box seems to be fine that it's not taking away the travel of the bearing and pedal position. Correct me but if a wrong but id the clutches were stuck together would it still make the system disengage still? Am wondering that could of caused it . Idk

Setup : RB25 NEO,R33 GTT Gearbox,OS Giken Triple Disk, Ram Hydralic Throwout bearing. It all began when I drove my car out the drive way and for a while now my clutch fingers made a strange noise when depressed but after the car is warmed up it disappeared and next day it returns. The bleed line for my hydralic went loose the day I drove it out . Bleed over the system then to realize the clutch cylinder was bad. Change it bleed over and I wasn't able to disengage the clutch,after that I gave the bearing more travel to see if the clearance/travel of the bearing change. Did that no luck on disengagement. Clutch has life I took down the set up and all the disk was stuck together due to grease from the spline and wd40 I sprayed on the fingers to see if it ease the noise(stupid of me). What else could it be that isn't disengaging the clutch

I NEED A STICK OF DYNAMITE LOLLLLLLL Fired up the engine today and the same problem what the hell could this possibly mean,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

when i pulled down the head while communicating with you guys i did a kerosene leak down to see if any vales were leaking and if there was any only one or two which was slight on the exhaust side. Intake had no sign of leakage and i did all valves with the head turn over and the kerosene settle on the valve based..... so am trying to get another compression tester dont have access to a leak down tool..... Reason why i lapp the valves well more fine on intake and coarse and fine on the exhaust is cause the last two valves of the exhaust had a slight bend so all 12 valves were lapp over on the exhaust which change the clearance i believe....and after that is when this issue was shown..... I already change the clearance to tomei spec of 0.018 thou on the intake... i may/might start the engine and see if what i did made any difference...Engine time on points am only left to believe either the vct might have a play in this but i doubt all that was done to the head when taken off was - Replace exhaust #11 and #12, Tomei 1.2 head gasket,stock head bolts torque to nissan specs,changed valve seals ,lapp intake with fine and exhaust with fine and coarse...Thats about it....

well unfortunately it was an issue with the compression tester i did a compression test on a sr20 engine and it did that same thing....

This is the slow compression build up i was referring to CYlinder #1 Compression.mp4

illl start sometime this week.. just need time to finish mount up other components.....am running no IAC/Idle control.....

And the battle continues........ Timed the engine on points,ran a compression test again still did the slow build up starting to think that compression tester is maybe defective or ill need to try another one or try that same one on another engine to confirm... havent start the engine to see if its still doing the low vac issue...

Thanks... brb until i continue the assembly of the engine...

And yes i held it in position in removing and installing.This might be my last bet.. If its stuck open it will create much more overlap = low vac. Correct me if am wrong. How can i tell if my vct is stuck.....

Well i did and so far i havent seen anything wrong,valves are sealing properly..... so just for a piece of mind i did the intake clearances to tomei spec and so is the exhaust.... now its just to time the engine and am not even gonna start just run a compression test again and see whats popping...am starting to wonder maybe the engine was just a tooth off and could of been part of the issue even doh i checked a million times if that doesnt work welllllllllllllll idk lol