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About DTT_Eruc

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    Eric Joe
  1. So am going through my settings of my management and trying to figure whats best suited for the fan to be activated for my engine. I got a 16" fan on a 2 core rad.... After monitoring my temp sensor reading it sits around 85c on idle. Should i activate the fan to come on at 85 or activate at 90-95 then shuts off at 80 or 85 ?
  2. I know the post is out dated a bit but for those who contributed on there ideas/solutions just wanted to update yall once again.. Decided to find the strength and patients to pull off the head and BOOM! Valve #11 was surely the issue but strangely enough the valve is bent very slight so slight its hard to pick up in one glimpse. Also saw no contact on the piston and valve #12 seems to be ok thus far... Still leaves me to thinking HOW did that happen.
  3. Sooooooo... Just an update, i happened today got time to put back everything together and decided to do a compression test.... from Cyl 1 to 5 read 120 to 125 psi and for Cyl 6 reads 50... Jackpot of my problem lol but ik i still gotta take of the head....
  4. i forgot to ask ... if am using a tomei gasket which they only sell for 87mm bore and up,am i safe using it with stock bore of 86mm? and also do i have to skim the head to use there 1.2mm thick gasket. i was just gonna clean the head and block as perfect as possible...
  5. is it safe to purchase second hand arp head bolts just saw a buddy of mine having them for sale
  6. lol highly appreciate the patients and advice... head gasket no problem was just a bit optional on going on the arp but ill have no choice but to do so...... all this was really planned on the next motor build i had in mind .......
  7. ahhhh yes my dear friend it IS a disaster waiting to happen... is it my daily driven car? No it isnt.. am i planning on hammering it everytime? maybe,maybe not..... even if it makes 600 or even close to it does mean am putting my head on a block hoping it last forever.... what ill like is for the engine to at least give me a span time of 2 years so that i can gather all the essentials of having a properly built rb... so maybe 600 is a target but in reality ill go whats best for the engine at this moment .... so as you said it has been done for those with the luxury of spares or rebuilt.. for me once its up and running from there is buy abcdefg etc etc lol but i got u bud
  8. well if i do the HG since am there having no choice ill like to use the stock head studs till even if is not big amount of boost just want the car moving for now.... cause installing the arps wouldnt be hard doing after wards
  9. tomei 87 1.2mm on the stock bore(86).... well only until i see whats up with the head ill know what to do from there on..... dam why cant i just drive as is lol been working on this project 2 1/2 years now.....
  10. how much psi can the stock head studs hold for?
  11. the objective tbh was to do the 600hp on stock internals and hope it last till i can afford another head and block build.... so i really didnt want to touch anything inside but now i have to clear that "valve" issue ill have no choice but to do a fresh gasket and headstud(optional for me as funds are low) lolzz
  12. If that's the case, you're better off using a factory Nissan hg. It will be much more forgiving of not perfect mating surfaces. Otherwise you'll have to at a minimum skim the head and clean the deck surface thoroughly. ohhhhhhh i see.... i was looking at using tomei 1.2mm and just clean the head perfect as possible and slap it on
  13. also whats the max boost/hp can the rb25det neo hold up too
  14. already planned to and since you mention it dont think i wanna do head skimming or decking of the block just want the car back up running without having to do much...
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