-
Posts
527 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
21 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by Old man 32 GTR
-
-
On 28/11/2023 at 12:57 AM, Predator1 said:
Here you go. Mind you if you have a nicer clutch it may not be that bad.. but you can hear the whine… trust me.. I used to think my gf’s whine was louder.
That wasn’t even 100% throttle and was insane (makes me want to get one)
but they are loud and I don’t think the video does the noise justice.
it all comes down to what you want to do with the car, if the car is just for the occasional morning run with the boys and you like roll/drag racing, sequential is perfect, and the best pick of your sequential options is the Albins.
But, if you’re questioning the noise, then it’s probably not for you.
if you’re going to be doing any decent drives in the car (2-3hours), there will be a point where it goes from, “this sound insane” to “I have a migraine” and you can’t turn it off or turn it down, there’s no volume control, it’s always there. -
-
On 28/9/2023 at 10:06 AM, Duncan said:
Noltec aren't really around any more, but they did have issues with crumbling over time, don't use them if you come across them. I haven't had a particular problem with other brands, they do degrade over time depending on use like factory ones do.
Yep, I had a brand new set of Noltec rear subframe bushes that came with my 32 when I bought it, when I was doing the rear subframe, I considered using them, I opened the packet and they were all cracked, and they started to fall apart when touched, and these had never been fitted to a car, just fell apart with age I guess.
I fitted white line rear subframe bushes in mine, but it’s a while off driving so can’t comment on what they are like.
my rear is a mix of white line and Nismo,- 1
-
16 hours ago, r32-25t said:
Got it to idle, only a couple of things to do before getting it tuned
Congrats, not long now till you’re enjoying it again
- 1
-
Good luck with it, nut and bolt restoration is a deep rabbit hole to be jumping into.
you keeping the bay factory matte or matching body colour? -
Spent the day at n the car, dismantling the interior, removed the steering rack and replaced the rubber boot, at first I thought I got the wrong part as the one on the car was solid, but then crumbled when I removed it. Was a mission to change, got my dash pad out as well as the heater core, I got a new core and boost doc fittings to replace the factory plastic ones.
the dash bar looks clean but as I have an illness I’ll be taking it to be blasted and clear coated before refitting it. Will take the opportunity to try to clean up the wiring and make sure everything is hidden.
- 3
-
-
-
On 18/8/2023 at 10:00 AM, Shoota_77 said:
I need that shed in my life, all I could fit in my yard was a 6 x 3, it’s nice, but not big enough.
and I got a 22 year old son that’s also into cars, so I got his shit as well as mine.
we just installed billet drive shafts into his turbo BRZ. So tomorrow he can help me get the dash pad out of the GTR -
-
23 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Couple of things
The thread on the nuts is the same from both sides, so you can thread the nut on backwards to try to get started again with clean threads...obviously you can't tighten it up that way.
if you want to try and get a correct sized die (won't be cheap) a truck supplies shop would be the way to go
I’ve tried your first suggestion, still is super tight. I’ve got 4 x new nuts that are the same so I could destroy a couple if needed.
if I get off work early one day next week I’ll try a truck supplies shop and see how I go with the die, if I can’t get it sorted before hand.
I wish the shop told me there was an issue, I would have got it sorted while the shafts were out of the car! -
18 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Overtightening will lead to thread stretch. Usually behind the nut though.
This is what I thought, wouldn’t thread stretch only be thread behind the nut, and it’s the same on both sides.
Can someone confirm is the front and rear thread pitch and size the same? Because I was told they are different but the nuts I bought go perfectly on the front shafts, but if you check the part number, they are listed as rear.
I’ll head out to total tools tomorrow and grab a thread gauge, or are the generic ones useless?
this is the thread file I got, was the only one they had in metric.
-
Having a slight issue with the rear shafts in the GTR. Car 92 R32 GTR
min the course of my build I had the rear shafts sent away and rebuilt, now when removing them the shop told be they had trouble getting the nut undone and one of them was destroyed, the other is rounded off, I bought a set of replacement nuts locally, but they didn’t fit and I was told I need GTR specific nuts, so I ordered genuine rear hub nuts from Kudos, these came from Japan, problem… they still don’t go on, I’m thinking maybe the thread has been damaged possibly from over tightening.
I can get the new nut to start, but it’s really tight.
I took the original nut that came off to a nut/bolt shop to see if they could supply a new one but they had nothing in that size/thread pitch.
the original nut that came off does go back on but it also a little tight and does not wind on easily.
I then went to total tools to get a thread cleaner, but they don’t stock anything in that size, I ended up buying a thread file and will have a go at using the file to clean the thread.
Am I missing something?
Is there a different nut I need?
My next step is to go to a drive shaft shop and see if they have a nut that works/fits.
Or is it Most likely the thread is stretched/damaged?
By eye, the thread looks fineI’ve attached some pics, you can see on the new nut the thread has been damaged from trying to force it on.
cheers -
6 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:
What is the coating process for the plastics? Paint or something else? Either way they look new again!
Cerakote is the coating, plastics are vapour blasted, dried then the coating applied, I think it’s basically sprayed on, (I’m not 100% sure on this) the coating thickness is 30 microns. There are two types of coating, one must be backed and the other is air cure, which is what they use on plastics and anything else that can’t go in the oven.
- 1
-
Slowly coming along, car is home so working on the interior. Most of it is out, Bought a set of seats and dropped off all the dash parts and door cards to the trimmer.
and some new electronics.
OCD is sending me broke, getting things coated that really don’t need to be, if someone ever pulls this car apart again they won’t won’t what the hell happened to it!- 1
-
6 hours ago, r32-25t said:
And no I didn’t pressure test it, at least it didn’t come back out as fast as I put it in but still didn’t require any pressure
So where is it coming from?
-
-
Car is looking mint, at this rate you’ll be finished way before me, so you’ll have to take me for a run in it, I can’t remember what a working GTR is like? Lol
- 1
-
EFI Solutions also stocks them
- 2
-
-
The Haltech CAN gauges are nice, I contemplated installing one when I was running the 3 x centre console gauges.
but the motec dash kind of eliminates the need for them.
looking good, it’s a good feeling when it’s going back together- 1
-
-
On 15/6/2023 at 9:48 AM, r32-25t said:
Once it’s done you won’t want to drive it because it’ll be to clean
Goal is GTR festival 24, want to enter the elite show and shine and dyno comp (if they run it again.
rear end is finally complete, tank was restored and straps were cerakoted.
All new lines on top of the tank fitted, new filler hose etc. Rear coil overs installed, ordered new clips for the rear brake crossover line and attessa lines.- 2
-
6 hours ago, The Bogan said:
I hated my VA1 STI after I realised I would need to build the engine to get any real power for a 1550kg car safety
Pulse Racing did the usual mods to it, intercooler, CAI, injectors, turbo back exhaust and a fuel pump, that gave around 215kwatw, pulse said the turbo was then pretty tapped out, and if I wanted more power it would need a bigger turbo, and a built closed deck engine
The open decked, weak rodded EJ25 is junk in my opinion and should never have been used
In the end I just hated looking at it, it started to look like a Kia sedan to my jaded eyes
It was fun blasting it around on some dirt roads when I was working in Amberley though, but not to inspiring on the road
My 86, after I put a turbo on it to get around 215kwatw, was a much better car to blast around the streets in.....until I backed it into a guard rail after hitting some diesel that was on the road at a roundabout that is
I'm still jaded about killing the 86, I still have epic sads about that, and as they only released 60 of them, it makes the sads epic
But giving the Bogan Cruise Ship a hit now and then does make me forget about the 86, until my daughter reminds me by sending photos of the 2017 Limited edition ones she sees that is, there is one that lives in Goulburn, every time see see it she sends her poor old dad a photo, I really should spend her inheritance on holidays, expensive sports cars and other random stuff.......that will teach her
How did you get the RFP1’s to clear the brembos, my son just bought a set for his BRZ and they don’t clear the brembos
Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either!
they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back.