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Everything posted by Die$eL

  1. with which mounts? The L28 of the RB? The RB mounts are too tall. I've read that the stock RB mounts work (they didnt) Read that the RB bridge mounts with the L28 rubbers work (didnt) R31 mounts work (dont have a set to try) R32 mounts work (dont have a set to try) Just buy the CX racing kit (shipping from USA to South Africa is an issue) Just by the Mckinnon kit (shipping from USA to South Africa is an issue) Just make mounts (busy trying that at the moment, seems costs will work out to the same as getting the kit)
  2. hi, I've sold my R33 and got myself a 1981 Datsun 280ZX (S130) Managed to find a RB25DET NEO along with a Fatboy gearbox. The plan is to have it relatively powerful but to keep the look period correct as far as possibe. I see CX Racing in the states offers an engine/box mounting kit for the conversion. the problem is that I'm in South Africa and shipping + duties from there to here is crazy. Looking for some advice on any place in Australia which may sell a similar kit. Any suggestions?
  3. I've decided to run the car for a little before changing the filter just incase there was any contamination which got in while i was working in there.
  4. A Big thank you for all of the advice. I've upgrade the wiring and this has resolved the leaning out issue. I've done a video detailing what I did and bits used etc. Hopefully it can help others who experience the same issue.
  5. Thanks for the detailed info. This really helps. I will upgrade the wiring, relay and change fuel filter then report back.
  6. Thanks Rob. I didnt know it requires a wiring and relay upgrade. Is it to do with the "relay mod" that some other threads mention? Can you give any more detail on the wiring upgrade? The vacuum line from the intake mani to the FPR is fine. The new pump came with its own strainer. So that is new. I forgot to change the fuel filter in the engine bay. Will change that too.
  7. Hi, My stock fuel pump was making a hell of a noise so I got a Walbro GCA3386-2 (255LPH) The mounting is different from stock. With this the strainer attaches directly to the pump while the stock pump sits about half way down the mounting bracket with a pipe to the strainer at the bottom. So with this the pump has to be mounted at the bottom of the bracket. Not sure what is the cause but on boost the car is running very lean. AFR is showing 18:1 On normal driving its fine. The car has a Haltech fitted. Am I supposed to get it remapped after fitting the pump? Do i need to change the FPR from the stock one?
  8. Hi all, I've done a quick video on how to disable to beep/chime which sounds when you have the key in the ignition barrel and door open. Super simple fix which has no "side effects"
  9. Sorry to revive an old thread. I've seen people post times of 13 to 14 second 1/4 mile times on GTST with just BPU bits added. My question is, was these on prepped tracks or not? I ran a 14.4 with my GTST on an unprepped track. with 18" Semi slicks it spins all the way through 1st, 2nd and most of 3rd. I'm sure that with proper traction I could do a low 14 to high 13 second pass.
  10. true!!! I usually just rev It's loud enuf ?
  11. Attached is the dyno run and a pic at the dyno. Also a pic of the new intercooler. I forgot to mention, I managed to replace the rice steering wheel with an OEM one. It wasn't in the best condition when I got it. Managed to refurb it. Waiting for my brother to bring my new slip ring. Bought it off a guy in the UK. My bro lives there and it bringing it to SA for me. Cant wait to have a functioning horn. Drivers here are real @$$Es 281hp run - 2018.mp4
  12. Due an update now: My turbo started whining so I had it redone. Machined the housings a little, bigger wheels. Basically a hybrid turbo. Spools freaking awesome and the power difference is great. Had the car on a dyno and it made 283hp at the wheels at 0.75bar boost (about 10.8psi). Mods are: - Hybrid turbo - miltek exhaust - cone filter (still need to add a heat shield) - bigger radiator I'm pretty happy with the figure considering the car just has BPUs. I've bought a front mount intercooler (600mm x 300mm x 75mm). Still need to sort the piping and fit it. A buddy will help me with it in the new year. Also bought a local aftermarket management system which I will fit after the FMIC. Oh, I also got myself a Z32 MAF which I need to fit as well. Still thoroughly enjoying the car!!
  13. Yip, I bought a new house so my budget is extremely tight at the moment. All those big plans will remain just that for now.
  14. just an update. I decided to rebuild the stock turbo. Cost me about $445. Gaby at Fastec here in South Africa, Gauteng did it. Full custom Garrett core. Bigger inducer and exducer. 360 degree thrust washer etc. It's Awesome!!!! fully spooled by 3000rpm. Spools quick and makes power throughout the rev range. I'm running at at 0.85bar of boost and monitoring AFRs which seem to still be ok. Anything more than just over 0.9bar and it hits boost cut. Feels like a completely different car now.
  15. Thanks for the info. I will be using the manual box. No chance in hell that I would use the auto. cool. So i will go with the R34 ecu that comes with the motor and will get the nistune as well. The engine should be landing in the country in about 3 weeks. I will update on my build thread as I go.
  16. ok so my buddy just called. He is able to get me a complete NEO motor with auto box, ecu and harness would it then just be a matter of me replacing my engine, ecu and harness (not gearbox). Is the ecu for the automatic cars "linked" to the gearbox in any way? Or would it just be a matter or fitting a resistor for the shift solenoid?
  17. it will probably be easier for me to get an aftermarket ecu. these cars are rare in south africa. especially the r34 if i do find one however I will get it
  18. i suppose I could just get an aftermarket ecu? Apexi or link? I cant afford a haltech
  19. I'm holding off on the turbo for now. A buddy may be able to get me a NEO motor complete with turbos. Would that just be a simple matter of removing the existing RB25DET and replacing it with the NEO? Is the wiring harness the same? Luckily I wont be doing the work. Will send it to my buddy's shop but I will help so I can learn at the same time.
  20. great. Thanks. Sorry for all the questions. Will it be a direct bolt-on? Would I need to change oil lines/coolant lines or anything?
  21. Thanks for all of the replies. I see the Hypergear stuff is strongly suggested. i'm looking at this: http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 ATR43 400~600HP T3x Internally gated turbocharger Would I need to send my turbo in to Hypergear or is this a whole new turbo? (can i part-exchange my turbo? Else I got no use for it)
  22. Apologies, I know there are probably loads of threads about this. A search brings up a stack of results but nothing that specifically answering my question. My stock turbo popped on my R33 GTST (I think its series 1.5). There is slight shaft play and the impeller is touching the housing. Question is, should I recon it and have the ceramic wheel replaced with a metal one or change the turbo? My end goal is 400-450hp. The plan was to do injectors, MAF etc. before the turbo but i have to change that around now. If I change the turbo, what are the suggestions for something which will be a straight swop or close to it? The car is basically stock with just a milteck exhaust.
  23. is it not a pulley bearing that is on its way out?
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