RBW49N

Definitely do not let it idle for 24 hours. I can’t remember exactly what you did to the engine but a few heat cycles without driving then a few light load drives making sure it gets up to temperature properly 15-20 minutes. Then drain and refil the oil and change the filter, checking for contaminants like bearings. then send it

It’s a lot of time and effort to get the Teins rebuilt when you could get some nice Bilsteins in there for similar money and have a better overall ride. some bushes like the radius rods are better in Heim/rose joints and others (all of the others) are better in polyurethane for a road car

All 25’s are the same except NEO

Have you had a look at it yet? Best to unbolt the converter bolts and loosen the gearbox bolts and see if you can push the converter all the way into the gearbox. Do it while rotating the converter it should noticeably click or clunk into place. Then bolt the gearbox to the engine correctly so there is no gap. And then bolt the converter to the flexplate.

No the convertor needs to go onto the gearbox first

It could also be the converter not all the way in

Is it for a series 1 or 2 car as the fitment is different

What fuel are you using?

I havnt done it myself but I do need to do it. Plenty of people have done it and factory manual cars have that same width so they have less issues with wheels hitting at low heights

Too low that’s the same size I have as well and if you go to low you get rubing

It will alter the track of the car and enable you to run less camber without hitting the outer guard and give the coil over clearance

Is it an rs4 or an rs4s? tou can fit an S14/5 rear subframe and suitable driveshafts if it is a factory auto and it will give more clearance

I would assume S2 c34 awd with a FFP. Can’t run the S2 throttle body because they are very long and was probably an auto converted to manual. I have a haltech plug and play harness and don’t run the attessa awd adapter. Maybe the output is configured incorrectly

Are tyre sizes the same?

Looking good

Most likely it was stuffing something else or not working. If you ever get the chance remove it completely so it can’t stuff your day. Most of them were installed by cowboys or butchers not actually auto electricians

Every bloody import had those things. Even when mint Sylvia’s were 4K they needed one for insurance

Yeah they look like bolts someone found lying around the shed don’t they.

Bit the bullet and R34 fronted my unicorn. 😃

Brake upgrade for C34 AWD with 14mm calliper bolts. Comes with callipers, pads, discs, hoses and rotors. They are 4 piston Nissan callipers I suspect they are S14/15 but I do not know and I also do not know what else they will fit. Pick up from western Sydney or I can post if you want to pay for it but I’m sure postage wouldn’t be cheap. $250. I would also swap them for some Stagea stuff I need the clips in the rear for the blind and net

Pedal feel is very good. I thought I would need the BM57 master but it’s fine without it. I will upgrade to the bigger master cylinder when I do the rears. it stops great. One of the more noticeable mods I’ve done

I went from this tiny brake upgrade to the Evo Brembo and 350mm rotor brake upgrade on the weekend. What a difference.

Did you do a TK test?

Just make sure it has NEO cam covers as that’s why the bolts are different. The gasket on NEO covers is different as well

I have one in Sydney it has bulkhead terminals on it and the stock terminals/plugs are still intact and not melted.