RBW49N
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Posts posted by RBW49N
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20 hours ago, Wazmond said:
So currently im running a set of TEIN Lowdown spec, freestyle master, Superflex Wagons (long name i know aha)
Numbers on it are GRN78-11931, WGNC34-F, 1F017. Probably wont really matter the numbers.
Anyhows, had my car driven by me pops earlier today on Old Pacific Hwy, to get an idea of what to do regarding suspension. Final verdict was shocks needs a rebuild/replacing, control arm bushings are worn out, and better tyres (currently running winrun r330 215/50/17 for now).
Just wondering whether I should get the teins rebuilt etc or go for the bilstein setup (will mainly be street driven and may may may-be get tracked).
As for bushings, just deciding on whether to replace the stock control arms etc with adjustables , or to just replace the bushings with most likely polyurethane on the ole stock arms etc.It’s a lot of time and effort to get the Teins rebuilt when you could get some nice Bilsteins in there for similar money and have a better overall ride.
some bushes like the radius rods are better in Heim/rose joints and others (all of the others) are better in polyurethane for a road car -
All 25’s are the same except NEO
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Have you had a look at it yet? Best to unbolt the converter bolts and loosen the gearbox bolts and see if you can push the converter all the way into the gearbox. Do it while rotating the converter it should noticeably click or clunk into place. Then bolt the gearbox to the engine correctly so there is no gap. And then bolt the converter to the flexplate.
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1 hour ago, QLDR31 said:
Thanks guys.
Hopefully nothing is fooked up.
The converter is meant to be bolted onto auto flywheel first hey? Not later.
I like the hoist idea, I can do that at work. The tail shaft bolts are tight as fook and auto box is as greasy as fook. I guess ill need to put some wood between the sump and cross member to keep engine in position?
Doesn't have any manual stuff. Same engine and gearbox. That were original.
If the gearbox is busted i'll be looking for manual conversion.
No the convertor needs to go onto the gearbox first
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It could also be the converter not all the way in
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On 23/3/2024 at 2:26 PM, Shortyesquire said:
As the title suggests after a S2 Autech Front Bumper Skin. Happy to go with a Freeway Dolphin or Abflug as well.
Alternatively I have a S1.5 bumper skin missing the lip and could go with a suitable Autech or Dayz front lip.
Is it for a series 1 or 2 car as the fitment is different
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What fuel are you using?
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I havnt done it myself but I do need to do it. Plenty of people have done it and factory manual cars have that same width so they have less issues with wheels hitting at low heights
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2 minutes ago, Duncan said:
weird, I have standard r34 GTR wheels (18x9 +30) on my factory auto and they fit perfect inside and out
Too low that’s the same size I have as well and if you go to low you get rubing
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2 minutes ago, Yeevez said:
Rwd, factory auto, would that alter where the wheels sit? Track width etc or just where suspension bolts up?
It will alter the track of the car and enable you to run less camber without hitting the outer guard and give the coil over clearance
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Is it an rs4 or an rs4s?
tou can fit an S14/5 rear subframe and suitable driveshafts if it is a factory auto and it will give more clearance
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21 hours ago, Duncan said:
I remember Jetwreck had a similar problem with his M35, don't remember him ever getting to the bottom of it.
What do you mean you " had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box,". You don't list a car in your profile, is it a 33 GTR or something else?
And, is this the 4wd harness adapter you are talking about https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/
And, what do you mean by a RWD TPS, what is it out of?
*edit* one more question....what is the rear diff?
I would assume S2 c34 awd with a FFP. Can’t run the S2 throttle body because they are very long and was probably an auto converted to manual. I have a haltech plug and play harness and don’t run the attessa awd adapter. Maybe the output is configured incorrectly
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3 hours ago, SLIXK said:
Yes, goes away when I pull the front shaft
Are tyre sizes the same?
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15 hours ago, QLDR31 said:
I was putting new o'rings on the injectors today. Then I was trying to put the insulator? at the tip of the injector. They seem to break. I guess I'll need some new ones? Any tips?
Slowly progressing:
Looking good
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Most likely it was stuffing something else or not working. If you ever get the chance remove it completely so it can’t stuff your day. Most of them were installed by cowboys or butchers not actually auto electricians
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9 hours ago, Duncan said:
That is an immobiliser, probably fitted when it was imported. There was a time when compliance required an immobiliser on import, and that style was cheap.
There is a small device that goes on the key fob, you push it onto those contacts and then you can start the car for the next x seconds.
If you don't know about it, it must have been bypassed since, so you can replace it with a blanking panel if you want
Every bloody import had those things. Even when mint Sylvia’s were 4K they needed one for insurance
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2 hours ago, QLDR31 said:
Thanks, I didn't know that. I got cam cover gaskets in the OEM gasket kit so should be ok.
I bought a 29 piece silicon hose set today on eBay under $445 with tax. See how it goes.
The other day my cam cover bolts turned up and surprise surprise they look like what I already had. I knew they were different to older RB engines but didn't realize they were normal looking bolts.
Yeah they look like bolts someone found lying around the shed don’t they.
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Bit the bullet and R34 fronted my unicorn. 😃
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Brake upgrade for C34 AWD with 14mm calliper bolts. Comes with callipers, pads, discs, hoses and rotors. They are 4 piston Nissan callipers I suspect they are S14/15 but I do not know and I also do not know what else they will fit. Pick up from western Sydney or I can post if you want to pay for it but I’m sure postage wouldn’t be cheap. $250. I would also swap them for some Stagea stuff I need the clips in the rear for the blind and net
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24 minutes ago, SLIXK said:
Dayum, how does it feel? I want big brakes but I also want nice specs when I rebuild my vskf 😩
Pedal feel is very good. I thought I would need the BM57 master but it’s fine without it. I will upgrade to the bigger master cylinder when I do the rears.
it stops great. One of the more noticeable mods I’ve done-
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I went from this tiny brake upgrade to the Evo Brembo and 350mm rotor brake upgrade on the weekend. What a difference.
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2 hours ago, Cohen said:
so I've just got a burp kit to try and burp the coolant or see exhaust gasses, and no bubbles whatsoever, then I got the missus to rev the car to 2k rpm so I can watch for bubbles, low and behold, coolant nearly overflowed from the burp kit, but hundreds and hundreds of bubbles all smelling of exhaust gasses came out, no white smoke from the back at all no loss in power nothing, doing a compression test soon as well but it's 100% head gasket
Just curious as where to get most of the gaskets and what gaskets I'll need
Did you do a TK test?
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8 hours ago, QLDR31 said:
Apparently the NEO has no washer in the inlet cam.
On the weekend I got the timing belt on. Did another rookie error had my torque wrench set to fp instead of nm. Over torqued the tensioner. So I tossed my new stud and nut and reused my old ones.
I bought a stud install/remove kit. The remove part is too long to remove the tensioner studs but the install part works well. I loctited the smaller stud.
My engine didn't have original the cam cover bolts so I have ordered them (another 3-4 week wait). Apparently the NEO bolts are different to everything else. But I have plenty to go on with.
Just make sure it has NEO cam covers as that’s why the bolts are different. The gasket on NEO covers is different as well
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I have one in Sydney it has bulkhead terminals on it and the stock terminals/plugs are still intact and not melted.
S2 Stagea RB25DET NEO stockish rebuild thread
in Wagoneers
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Definitely do not let it idle for 24 hours. I can’t remember exactly what you did to the engine but a few heat cycles without driving then a few light load drives making sure it gets up to temperature properly 15-20 minutes. Then drain and refil the oil and change the filter, checking for contaminants like bearings. then send it