pogman

thanks mate, yeh im pretty sure i uploaded them from my phone which is why they are blurry but not too sure honestly. i just got some good paint match rattle cans made up and did it with about 6 cans, 3 of the base and 3 of the 2nd layer of the colour

i bought it direct from IRP just make sure you don't pay VAT as you don't have to and if you have any issues email them, they are very helpful. https://www.irp.lt/individual-racing-parts-product/short-shifter-nissan-skyline-r33r34-gtsgts-t-5-speed-gearbox/

thanks Neil, i bought it from carbonetics over in Sydney definitely tidies up the bay nicely

so slight update on the car, installed a set of hypertune billet cam covers along with a PRP billet diff hat to go with the new Nismo 1.5 way diff. finally sorted my power steering setup with a koyorad oil cooler and a new reservoir to keep everything cool on track. a new IRP short shifter was installed and wow that totally changed the feel of the box and looks very tidy. had an awesome weekend at powercruise recently where the car was flawless but upon a gearbox oil change i found a tooth off an unknown gear so now the plan is to find a dog engagement gear set to install once the box does finally let go. if anyone has any good or bad experiences with gear sets and companies that do them as of late please let me know as i am very stuck rn ahahaha

Its never let in water even when I give her a wash the water never makes it into the boot itself fortunately so I just left all sealants as they were.

Thanks mate, surprised that the white actually looked good. Now it's just the struggle of keeping it clean ahahaha

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So with the last few days off finally decided it was time to paint my boot so im not ashamed of it anymore. decided to go with QX1 white pearl to match the cam covers and its the colour I plan on painting the car one day. Removed all components and started to fix up the surface rust which thankfully there wasn't much of. removed the sound deadening from under wheel well and battery tray to give a decent finish and im a fan of my car being loud so I wasn't going to miss it. The battery tray was painted in wrinkle black and turned out better then I was expecting, the white pearl didn't pop as I was hoping but I finally feel like I can actually look at the boot and not feel like I own a shit box.

As a long time reader I thought I should contribute and share my "build". Had the car for nearly 4 years now and was purchased and has been used as a street car. Now starting to take it to some track days and having tons of fun its starting to turn into more of a track based car. Basic information. Built RB25 with a GTX3582R gen 2 with the lovely T51R mod. Oil cooler, surge tank and a plazmaman plenum have recently been installed in preparation for the track. Front APG BBK with factory calipers and DBA T3 on the rear. Unfortunately still a stock 25 turbo box which is starting to show its age. Basic suspension setup to give a decent allignment for now. Plans for the car. Basically I enjoy working on it and doing stupid stuff most people wouldn't bother with so i want to clean and tidy the car up and hopefully do some more track days and see how long it lasts before copping a yellow sticker really.

Any chance this is still for sale? Long shot I know

Yeh shes just an n1 with billet gears so not a huge amount of flow

Ok i will definitely try that out when i take the head off to put in some valves, springs and retainers. Im a little confused on the usefulness of the head drain after reading through the oil control thread as people seem to lean more towards the inportance of the catch can working well and draining/breathing properly?

I have had a fair few people look over the tune at high load and cruise and they were all happy with it so i dont think its too far off. We had removed all restrictors to the head as the old owner went about over the top with them and the head was ruined which was suspected due to not enough oil and so as it still uses vct and hydraulic lifters still so we decided to try it without any restrictors with the oil returns already drilled larger. It currently has no head drain/vent but definitely want to be adding some vents/drains and some rb26 baffled cam covers to try and help get the oil back to the sump.

Yeh its more about making it at least look legal and functional but if i have to ill just pop a breather on it if that works best for the engine. As i dont exactly want to pay for another forged engine build just to keep the coppers happy

So quick update as i put a filter on the catch can rather then having it return to the intake and went out last night to test it out and gave her some shit and barely any oil came out of the can. Still havent done a compression test as esspecially after that im hoping i dont need one now as it seems to have fixed it for now but its definitely due for an update as im still not a fan of the way the can looks.

Hmmm sounds interesting maybe the ring gap is abit looser on this motor and so more blowby? I may have to try something similar as although apparently lots of people do it im not sure i want to return the e85 contaminated oil back to the sump?

Yeh i think i will do a compression test aswell and possibly a leak down if it turns out bad

Ok ill try putting it back in im just so confused as i went a yr without any issues and now im overfilling the catch can after 2 pulls

No that has been blocked off

Nah no oil cooler. It normally sits at a stable and decent temp so i think its getting hot enough. It could possibly be running rich but i have had a few people go over the afrs as i wasnt overly confident with my most recent tune and everyone seemed to be faily happy with them?

So i am having some trouble with my rb25 at the moment. The motor was rebuilt just over 1 yr ago and runs on e85 and at every oil change of course there is always a smell of fuel in the oil which i have been told and have learnt to expect from ethanol. But recently i had stopped up from a coastal run to find oil leaking from the front bumper which was traced back to the pod filter as my catch can is plumbed back pre turbo. So clearly my can was overfilled so much it was being pulled into the intake thanks to the turbo and smoothering the pod filter in oil. Now this was the weekend before racewars and as i had no issues beforehand and had done a fresh oil change decided there wasnt much i could do and to just give it a go at racewars. But after 2 runs of the 800m i had again overfilled my 1.8l catch can enough to see oil out the bumper. Now what has me really concerned is the fact that after 2 runs of 800m my catch can and oil both reak of fuel. I have spoken to the engine builer and he isnt concerned with oil and fuel in the can as it isnt a great design and so since this i have read most of the oil control thread and am planning the new catch can system to drain and vent to sump as it should. But i am concerned that even after this i will still have this same issue as im concerned the rings are shagged is there any chance its not the rings? Thank you

Im also struggling with mine sitting in traffic or at lights on a hot day but as soon as i move the water temp drops down to normal temps within a minute or so. But my oil temp stays up there for a long time so i will definitely be purchasing an oil cooler as its a known issue with rbs to struggle with oil temp. Do you have an oil temp gauge and if so does that see huge increase when you're water temp goes up?

Ahhh ok im doing it from my phone but i never had an issur uploading from my phone before? And i tried both from my gallery and as an attachment

Let me try the 1 to see if that works? I dont understand why its not working ai

Hmmm very strange on my screen its saying i posted them all twice. Do these work?