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Im more after response rather than outright power. Ive driven big turbo RB20 and they make incredible top end power but theyre lazier than hell getting there. Is the GTX2860 a T3 flanged turbo?

Hey all, Ive got an R32 GTSt that im hoping to make about 225 kw at the wheels. Ive got an R31House tubular manifold with a T3 flange, 440cc injectors, and a Haltech Plugin Pro ECU. Id planned on using an HKS GT2530 turbo but i was looking for suggestions of other turbos thatd get me to my power goal. Any suggestions would be appreciated!!

My biggest worry would be it being a theft vehicle at that price honestly. Second biggest worry would be serious mechanical defect or a badly done swap, as again, that looks like a GTS with an RB20DET put in

Looks like a GTS thats had an RB20 swapped in which is fine, but its still stupid cheap for the US Market. I think youll find R32 GTSt are going for between 10 and 15k, so 5 sounds scarily cheap. Did they have a picture of the VIN plate from the engine bay by the way? On the plus side, you could run Longchamps on the car haha

Well helps a bit haha. Still need to find another one. The coil resistance in the one on my car is wasted so.

Facts. My GTSt did this, turned out to be a bad Air Flow Meter.

Hey guys, Hoping someone here might know if the clutch from an RB20 Air Conditioning Compressor was shared with any other Nissans or if even the coil was used with anything else? Being in the United States it's been a tough find looking for a working AC compressor replacement. Any info would be greatly appreciated!!

I dunno bro, I always say soldering haha

Found the guide I used. I used crimable caps to seal the wires together, left the rest of the plug intact so that I wouldnt have any potential crossed wires. Works fantastically. I'm running 4x6 in the front and 9" in the back. They're just cheap Dual speakers (cheap American brand) but they sound fantastic compared to the originals whose membrane had disintegrated like 10 years ago haha

The front speakers should be pretty straight forward the rear takes some cutting and splicing. I'm trying to find the guide I used to bypass the rear amp that runs both rear speakers.

It's possible the car has the "active speakers" still in the car? Then an aftermarket headunit wouldnt work with the system, since both front speakers and the rear speakers are controlled by individual amps. The front speakers were an easy replacement, the rear amp can be bypassed pretty easily as well

For what it's worth, I have seen a few L28 swapped R32 GTSt in Japan. Now I dont know the specifics, just viewed them in passing in several magazines. To be honest I'm not 100% sure what the point is with this type of swap but sort of cool from an old school engine build deal.

Or that, Haha. Coilovers are probably best, but depends on your budget

There are Nismo struts available from say RHDJapan.com or Nengun.com Probably your best bet unless you can find a set in good shape used.

I would always assume differences between generations of a vehicle. I know with the R32 GTSt there are a couple components that are shared with a Z32 Fairlady, such as brakes and I believe tie rod ends.

I swapped my ignitor out for a Z32 ignitor in my Skyline. Required repinning the harness' on both ends, or more accurately swapping the connectors side to side from the stock RB wiring. I'm sort of surprised the RB in the Cefiro is that different unless it's closer to the very early RB20 "redtops" from the R31 Skylines.

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb20det-ignitor-chip-connector/ 6 pin connector https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rbigchco.html 7 pin connector These guys are great, based out of Connecticut

Actually the gold GT badges were an option from the factory. You could get a gold Skyline emblem, Gold GT Badge and gold model badge as well.

For reference this is the exhaust. From the Yahoo auctions listing

Does anyone know much about this company? I know they're long out of business but theres very little information in English out there. I see the Miata and RX7 guys seem to like them but theres not much more than that.

Well give it another start and let it get warmed up and check again, it's probably a different problem but the fuel COULD have evaporated out of the line

Hey guys, So where I live in the US we've recently had a big uptick in car thefts as my state just made it so juveniles are no longer being punished as adults for grand theft auto. Because of this and other security reasons I was thinking of using some sort of RFID system to immobilize the starter through the ignition system so the car can't be started without the RGID fob or perhaps more classy, a ring. I've had some big issues in the past with aftermarket alarm systems and I'd prefer not to use anything like that here. Does anyone have any experience with this or this type of system that might be able to get me started?

When we the last time the engine ran?

Eitherway, you should either have a small puddle or you'll smell fuel residue Mine youd have to crank the engine and put the peddle to the floor to "catch" the engine or it would die and you have to crank it for an extended period (15 seconds or so)

Actually I had a similar problem. Itd cold start fine but then hot start like crap. Is your car running very rich? Do you smell excess fuel when it does start? My issue ended up being the fuel pressure damper at the front of the rail (read: against the firewall. RB rails feed from the firewall and exit through the front and the fuel pressure regulator). The diaphragm had failed and fuel was being forced through the vacuum lines and into the intake before the throttlebody. Pull this line off and see if there's an fuel in it.