steventt

False air/air leaks, or defective afm

Ok no high science here. You made all the proper checks, try keeping the test light probe for 1 minute if you have not already done so. Next,remove the sender and check the contacts(3 wires from the back of the connector for the sender unit going down into the petrol etc should be the white one) make sure they are secure and if you are good at playing maze games you can test continuity from the plug to these wires. Make sure all connections are secure - it may seem connected but a loose connection andnno connection is the same even though we getmultimetwr reading the functions arent properly secured like half way closing a bottle. Dont be worried, we are thinking twice, even 3 times, before we replace anything. What u are doing is pin pointing all the systems that should function correctly, eventually we are going to pinpoint one and prove, evaluate the issue. Right now worse case im leaning toward the cluster, if i had access to a spare or a buddy/friend/club member who has one and try their cluster, or better yet let them try urs. But lets not jump that far just yet.

Bright yellow

The gaugr will not go up withoutthe harness connected to the back(unless you take the time to figure out what wire is 12v and which ones are ground, then connect the individual pins with female terminals to a 12v and ground source, then you can test it externally with thesemder etc)

Ok this is some good progress. You use the test light with the harness connected to the cluster. In the interim while u waiting for a test light do a continuity test on the sender wire. From sender end to cluster end, then fom one end to ground. Did you try taking out the sender unit and manipulating it and see if the reading changes? Try touching the silver variable resister contacts together by hand. Also the pins in the connector mush be secure. The workshop manual will say what resistance u should get with the multimeter for both the gauge and sender. Its simple - worse case scenario you would have to make a bypass wire.

Fuel pump, low voltage. Possible fuel pump.

Stock manifold and oem head gasket = 330kwp/500whp. Want more HP you know what you can do.

Why all those mods? For bling and sting, do the ext wastgate mod, get a very good exhaust and a stand alone ecu with short loam to handle maxing your injectors and ignition. Also put a stink plazma man intercooler. Then with all the money saved, think of what motor you want, 2jz? Rb26/30, rb25neo? Then buy the injectors and turbo for that engine, then buy that engine. At each step you are buying things that can continue to be used later as yoy upgrade engine. I think the 25 neo is badass.

The fuel sender possibly. Take it out and check the resistance. If you dont know how to do that, get a normal test light, clip one end to ground, test a fuse to make sure the test light works, then touch the fuel sender wire or backprobe at the back of the instrument panel. Wait a while to see the guage go up, aporox 30 second to a minute max it will move up really slow. This verifies the gauge works. If yes, unplug the snder and do the same there, if no, possible/likely wire short under the carpet to the panel. If yes , the sender is sick, the arm is worn etc. Good luck repairing that, if it gave trouble before then it may be out. You can manually manipulate it to s33 if the reading changes, then see what is causing the problem. Investigate and let us know.

Okay to give you a straight answer. 100k - Original N1 or a fully fully modded gtr(stroked forged bottom, fully built head , basically there is nothing to be done) 90k - original nismo nothing missing all finishers etc 80ķ - all original spec vii. For 60k - full riced(flare kit, upgraded intercooler, stand alone, aftermarket seats, steering wheel, shift knob, coilovers, custom paint, custom steering, fuel cell, 2 fuel pumps, custom wheels volk or work etc, upgraded turbos). I would have a look at that one for 60ķ and pay 50k max, 45k with all 100's in ur pocket or transfer the money online/telebank etc. You dont want to pay top dollar and still have things to do to feel comfortable or stand out. In Trinidad and Tobago a normal legit roadworthy r32 gtr is valued 70-80k if you can get onem a modded one(even rarer) 100k all day. Just food for thought

X2 vacum leak

The engine idle is dropping too low to activate the oil pressure sensor circuit and keep the light off. What is causing this low idle at deceleration/no load? Any solid or intermittent checklight Secondary O2 sensor bad? Tps/thottle body good/needs cleaning? Vqs are throttle by wire right? Coilpack failing/misfiring? What does the idle drop to? Seeing that you went through the trouble of changing all the fluids do you mind getting a new crank sensor and using the original as a spare? Oil light=car on engine not running/oil light wire short/engine idle too low(see above questions)/clogged oil strainer/very old oil/faulty or ailing oil pump(ailing and dead are the same it wont gush oil on the cams due to not enough oil pressure). If either O2 sensor is bad/very very dirty the ecu will compensate fueling and timing on deceleration wrong it would run rich and pull timing. If the throttle body or idle valve is "sick" it wont give correct air compensation on deceration. Coilpacks love to give trouble off load and idle. If ur crank sensor is on its way out on deceleration it would pick up wrong and bog. When you depress the brake and clutch pedal, individual signals go to the ecu to help with transient compensation, load to off load, off load to load etc. Hope this makes sense and helps to understand how various problems occur.